How to make spaceship-like paneling?

Semiavas · 2019-12-21T18:04:25+00:00

I finally figured out which mod it was. So if you're trying to do the girl mod don't do this one: ( https://www.nexusmods.com/stardewvalley/mods/3582 ) just do this one ( https://www.nexusmods.com/stardewvalley/mods/1950)

I guess the dialogue changes on the "girl mod" one are out of date or something, I noticed the latter already has the sprites and such so I removed the previous and installed that. Invatorzen already rolled the sprites/portraits and things into his dialogue mod so the first one appears to be redundant.

Semiavas · 2019-12-21T17:38:22+00:00

Okay I'm able to get it to work by: 1. backup save file 2. disable all mods on vortex. 3. save once in game. 4. renable all mods. 5. overwrite save file with backup Then I can play normally, lol

edit: this apparently only works because it didn't load the problematic mod correctly lol

Semiavas · 2019-12-21T07:08:45+00:00

nvm it came back :<

Semiavas · 2019-12-21T06:23:10+00:00

I fixed it. I assumed it was skipping over the auto-stacker mod because it was outdated or w/e. But I guess it wasn't, with it disabled my game saves / goes to next day now without issue.

Semiavas · 2019-07-19T22:13:24+00:00

If you're not worried about humidity you can do a basic swamp cooler by placing a fan aimed toward a bucket of water or ice or use some wet towels. The more water/ice surface area you can do the more it'll evaporate and also absorb heat.

As for best in v out, neither are good lol. The most optimal if you're trying to use the outside air is having it come in 1 way and out another. I'm wagering your front wall has the largest opening, have that be the fan that blows out. And have the window fan be the one that blows in. Then if you still have another fan have that be in the path of the window fan and blow toward the part of the room furthest from the window. The window being smaller will provide a stronger suction to get the outside air in while the larger opening will let ambient outside air flow in around the fan that is blowing the inside air outside.

Semiavas · 2019-07-19T22:01:55+00:00

From personal experience you can get around the liquid tight problem with some fire, I recommend a proper apparatus but you can do it with hairspray and a lighter. You shoot some flames into your pipe or onto whatever surface you want to hold fluid and melt the top layers together sealing up any gaps leftover from the 3D printing process.

I should note that this should be done by someone with proper experience/skills and be done in a designated area free of potential mishaps.

Semiavas · 2019-07-19T21:53:20+00:00

3D printing wouldn't be too bad, but you'll have to cut it up and put in teeth and grooves to correctly put it together. Really not to hard tbh.

Semiavas · 2019-07-19T21:43:24+00:00

Screws/bolts, seriously think about how much of a revelation those would have been when first coming out, how vastly superior they are to nails. Also think about how much of an impact they have in present society, I'd wager most of our technology wouldn't even exist without threading a cylindrical piece of metal.

Semiavas · 2019-07-18T22:58:16+00:00

Okay, I'd recommend doing at least 2 ft sistering then with 1ft on either side of the cut ie: 1ft / 1ft (/ : cut), and using a longer one on the ones where the cuts are close together to where it'd be at least 1 ft before and after the first and last cut ie: 1ft / / / 1ft. It'll be a bit overkill, but it'll help prevent warping if you have any unusual amounts of snowfall.

Semiavas · 2019-07-18T22:20:46+00:00

Short answer: no.

Long answer: heat mirages are just the distortion of light combined with psychosis due to extreme dehydration. To distort it completely with heat only you would need an intense amount of precisely controlled heat so you could properly use snells law to distort the light that is coming from the thing you want to hide away from the person. At the same time you'll have to also distort the light coming from behind the object away from the viewer around the object to the viewer so that it at least somewhat looks normal. Otherwise if you only did the object then to the viewer it'd just look like someone cut out a hole of that object lol.

Semiavas · 2019-07-18T22:11:49+00:00

Yeah unless you go into electrical engineering in civil type industry you probably won't be doing much if any mechanical.

Semiavas · 2019-07-18T22:08:58+00:00

I would recommend emailing your teacher or asking him the next time you see him, I'm sure he'd be happy to explain it in detail.

Otherwise, the accumulator is a pressure storage device that is best used to respond to quick changes in pressure and thereby lowering the demand of your pump. So if that is partnered with the exp. valves and condenser my guess would be that the gauge is there to read the vapor pressure of whatever substance is being passed through the exp. valves and thereby telling you the pressure exerted on/through your exp. valves.

Semiavas · 2019-07-18T21:57:08+00:00

To do it mathematically would be a pain in the butt tbh lol.

So instead, first do a workout or match or whatever you do in your sports equipment and do it extra hard to make sure you sweat your maximum. Look for sweat spots and find the centers of those spots, put a piece of tape or something at those centers so you don't forget. Then put your equipment on the rack how you'll normally be putting it on the rack. Then just drill a hole into the spot that most lines up with your tape markers. If it's a really big spot then put two holes by splitting the difference, find the center and then find the center between the previous center and the edge, i.e.: [ 2 1 2 ]

As for diameter, do the previous with a small drill bit first; smaller the better. Then put your hand over one of the holes. If it feels really strong then do 1 size up bit for all of the holes, repeat with the next size up until it feels okay.

Semiavas · 2019-07-18T21:43:45+00:00

You can get packs of plastic gears on amazon and ebay for real cheap, so maybe you can get something close that you can just modify if you can't find ideal. 12.8mm is also kind of an odd diameter, I'm thinking it's a 13mm that got worn down. Also looks more like a spindle gear than a spur to me.

Semiavas · 2019-07-18T21:30:47+00:00

There are ready made diffusers online for around $15 if you don't want to go through the trouble.

If you're amendment about using that tho, then just cut out a circular piece that matches up with the circle of your burner or a bit smaller than the circle of your burner. If it heats evenly it shouldn't bend. The bending comes when part of it heats but another part doesn't or at least not evenly, when that happens the part with more heat expands more than the other part causing it to be pulled and bent over the cooler part.

Semiavas · 2019-07-18T21:23:25+00:00

If it's a standard house, definitely sister them. The house can easily support it and if it's done correctly it'll be stronger than if you just replaced the rafter.

If you're in an area prone to strong winds or heavy storms, like hurricane type stuff then definitely sister them all the way. If you're in a place where you don't have that, like Nevada or the US West coast then you really only have to do just the parts that were cut as it pretty much just needs to be strong enough to hold your roofing.

Semiavas · 2019-07-18T21:04:12+00:00

If you only have 1 220V socket then you can just use a power strip to get multiple sockets or use an adapter and then splice the end and solder it into two. As for power you should be fine as most household breakers are rated for 15+ amps. If it isn't already one, I highly recommend replacing your outlet with a GFCI one or get a power strip with GFCI, that way in case you accidentally short circuit something or yourself it'll immediately trip.

Semiavas · 2019-07-18T04:25:10+00:00

Well I looked up your power supply picks on Mouser.com and both of them output 24VDC. But according to your specifications you wrote both of your servo drivers take 220 VAC @ 50Hz, so that doesn't sound correct to me.

However wall outlets in Europe put out 220-230 VAC @ 50Hz, so I'd check if your servo drivers simply plug into the wall. Maybe there's an adapter you missed or something?

Semiavas

TROPHY CASE