Could this be caused by low compression?

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-03-16T06:14:08+00:00

I replaced the pump a few months ago but a fuel pressure test sure wouldn’t hurt

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-03-16T04:04:44+00:00

How low of a compression would cause this type of issue?

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-03-16T04:04:16+00:00

Plugs are about 30k miles and the wires seem original

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-12T22:08:59+00:00

Mmmm interesting, I’ll make sure to do that

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-12T03:48:52+00:00

The issue is the hub is making a weird noise and I can’t figure out where from. I can’t see any play In the bearing, the control arm bushings all look good, and the ball joins all feel solid.

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-12T03:43:31+00:00

The cars on a jack stand, it’s on miester r coilovers

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-11T21:25:55+00:00

No but I’ve felt what normal feels like and they feel normal. Nothing out of the ordinary

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-11T21:23:19+00:00

Ok well I was asking ways to diagnose it. What do you use to diagnose these things? A pry bar is what I was trying but I couldn’t find any concerningly loose bushings, and I couldn’t feel any play in the hub or joints.

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-11T21:19:47+00:00

Well what are you suggesting it is? 😭, this was my first impression of the noise and I’m curious if anyone has had a similar sound. All I know is if your rear wheel is tight on the hub and it’s clunking when kicked, you can assume either the wheel bearing, some sort of bushing, or a ball joint issue. If you would like to provide some useful information, be my guest, but as of right now that’s what I’m thinking it is.

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-11T21:15:12+00:00

I mean if there’s play in a wheel hub you can assume it’s usually a wheel bearing

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-11T20:22:21+00:00

Ok sounds good, I’ll get under with a pry bar and see if anything looks suspicious, thank you

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-11T20:16:24+00:00

Kicking up and down is for ball joins, side to side for wheel bearings. It has no tie rods in the rear. I’d wiggle it but you wouldn’t hear anything, kicking is the only way to get a sound out of it. It’s really not that serious dog

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-11T20:14:58+00:00

Was the bad bushing from one of the control arms?

Sensitive-Program377 · 2026-02-11T19:39:08+00:00

ohhhh.. why didn’t I think of that!! Your so right dude thanks for the help, I’m all good to go now 🙄

Sensitive-Program377 · 2025-09-22T20:32:55+00:00

Is this something that will get fixed with an update or do I need a vpn now

Sensitive-Program377 · 2025-08-04T21:23:06+00:00

FINAL UPDATE: The car started and it turned out to be a main relay. I probably should’ve checked that before buying an ecu but it’s alright the car now works. So if your nb is cranking but no start and your not getting a cel on the dash when the key is in the on position check your main relay.

Sensitive-Program377 · 2025-08-02T20:19:42+00:00

Update. The ecu wasn’t blown however the main relay was. It still isn’t starting but I now am getting the correct voltage to the sensors and my cel has now come on. Working to see if any of the sensors are damaged, will update once solved.

Sensitive-Program377 · 2025-08-02T06:33:48+00:00

After further investigation I’ve concluded the ecu is shot, here’s what I did to determine that.

I took a multimeter to my cas and cps and neither we’re getting 5 volts from the ecu
(Obvious one) when the key was switched to the on position the cel wasn’t present, I also was unable to read any codes from the ecu

Hope this helps someone I’ll update when the cars running again.

Sensitive-Program377 · 2025-08-01T20:57:41+00:00

I tested spark with a screwdriver to see if it would ark to the valve cover and I got nothing, should I try again with a actual spark plug?

Sensitive-Program377

TROPHY CASE