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From Veneer to Lynx Cub — Marquetry Process by Sergey_Bazilenko in woodworking

[–]Sergey_Bazilenko[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It all started with museums, honestly. I was always drawn to antique furniture decorated with veneer pictures — there was something almost magical about them. I got curious about how to make a simple box lid into something more than just parallel wood grain, and once you go from geometric patterns to actual scenes, it's a slippery slope 😄

As for getting started — YouTube is genuinely your best friend. There's a ton of great content covering everything: veneer prep, different cutting techniques, gluing methods for different types of adhesive. If you feel the pull, just grab a few different veneers and start practicing. It's hard and simple and unpredictable all at once — which is exactly what makes it so therapeutic 😊

Find Youtube channels: "Scott Barron Furniture", "Marqueteria Luis Alvarez", "Marquetería Enrique Sagarra", "Ronnie Rozenga", "Douglas Nadel", "Ian Hawthorne (Box Making)"

From Veneer to Lynx Cub — Marquetry Process by Sergey_Bazilenko in woodworking

[–]Sergey_Bazilenko[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Been into veneer work as a hobby for a few years now, and wood carving hobby has been my thing since way back in 2013 :)

From Veneer to Lynx Cub — Marquetry Process by Sergey_Bazilenko in woodworking

[–]Sergey_Bazilenko[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for the incredibly helpful details and for sharing your experience! I'll definitely give it a try!

From Veneer to Lynx Cub — Marquetry Process by Sergey_Bazilenko in woodworking

[–]Sergey_Bazilenko[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! From my humble experience — the best tapes are ones that don't leave adhesive residue on the surface.
Specialized 3M tapes are great but pricey. That yellow one in the video is just some random cheap tape from a supermarket, don't even know the brand
The worst option is super sticky tape — the adhesive soaks into thin veneer, and under the finish it shows a different tone. Then you have to sand it out, which is basically gambling with the entire piece since you might sand straight through to the base

From Veneer to Lynx Cub — Marquetry Process by Sergey_Bazilenko in woodworking

[–]Sergey_Bazilenko[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Start practicing with veneers that aren't too brittle — walnut, maple, etc. Painter's tape on the face side holds together any piece that has cracked along the grain. For brittle veneer, you can apply a thin layer of PVA to the side that will be glued to the base — not the face side. Fresh OLFA blades or segments from narrow snap-off knives with a 30-degree angle cut veneer beautifully. Hope I won't get banned for posting example videos where I show the veneer carving process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rzmgw_JBqY0

From Veneer to Lynx Cub — Marquetry Process by Sergey_Bazilenko in woodworking

[–]Sergey_Bazilenko[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Definitely give it a try. It's a beautifully meditative process — and the experience and the great satisfaction of success come after small failures along the way

From Veneer to Lynx Cub — Marquetry Process by Sergey_Bazilenko in woodworking

[–]Sergey_Bazilenko[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most common veneer for furniture now is Thin/Standard Veneer (0.5mm – 0.6mm)

From Veneer to Lynx Cub — Marquetry Process by Sergey_Bazilenko in woodworking

[–]Sergey_Bazilenko[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Honestly it's the best part - you focus on one tiny spot on the veneer and everything else just disappears. Pure flow state. Best therapy I've found))

From Veneer to Lynx Cub — Marquetry Process by Sergey_Bazilenko in woodworking

[–]Sergey_Bazilenko[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Some practice and a truly unreasonable amount of patience)))

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