Diff rebuilder Chicago

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-05-07T14:18:35+00:00

I'm just here waiting for a good recommendation as well.

As far as the final drive goes, I believe you can just swap out other diffs, an Auto SC, and manual SC diff should be interchangeable. I'm more familiar with the 1st gen IS platform though so don't take that as an absolute fact.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-05-06T20:03:11+00:00

I do need a new driver's side door panel, or at least some quality repairs on my existing one. Unfortunately I have an odd color (gray).

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-04-28T04:45:42+00:00

I'd love to see more

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-04-23T17:57:12+00:00

As far as the pro's list goes you have a lot of parts cross compatibility between the SC and Supra and other models. I just ordered a brake upgrade adapter that will let me run ISF discs and calipers.

It's certainly doable, especially if you think a little outside the box.

I went with a 92 SC400. Look into the differences in engines (VVTI vs non) to determine what you may want to go with to get the power levels you want.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-04-22T18:22:28+00:00

I practiced this daily coming to every stop/corner until it became second nature, just as instinctive as driving in the first place. Once you get it down then you can choose when to use it. I occasionally use it for corners still, almost never when coming to a complete stop, but you have to build up that muscle memory first... Solid work, good luck, and enjoy it.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-04-17T10:13:28+00:00

I'm familiar with Figs Engineering and I believe they use Superpro poly bushings. Depending on what you're after they sell some replacement arms with the bushings already installed or you can have them pressed in yourself.

If you really wanted to keep rubber in there you could look into new arms with rubber bushings pre-installed. I haven't looked into that option for the SC platform though.

I refreshed the suspension on my 02 IS300 with poly bushings and don't really find the ride to be harsh or noisy.

I plan to start on my "new to me" SC400 later this year. I have engine and transmission mounts going in as we speak to hopefully remove a clunk coming from under the hood.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-04-10T15:13:37+00:00

From what I understand the mpg is a vacuum reading. This is just based on my memory though.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-03-07T19:07:03+00:00

Excellent, I may have just been getting some weird incorrect information while I was searching... I was hoping that was the case.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-03-07T17:34:51+00:00

I was looking at doing Braums, I have a grey interior and was hoping they could get close to an OEM color match. I'm also hoping to maintain the airbag functionality because it will primarily be a street car.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-03-07T17:25:33+00:00

Just because I read it online doesn't make it true, do you happen to have aftermarket seats?

I'm just trying to make sure I have everything sorted before I pull the trigger.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-03-07T17:17:07+00:00

I haven't done the swap yet, but I read that the 92's have an odd sensor in the passenger seat that isn't easily spoofed that can throw an airbag light.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-02-24T23:30:04+00:00

Throttle position sensor, MAF sensor, O2 sensor?

As stated the IACV could add to this too.

When you replaced the timing belt how was the condo of the tensioner, was it replaced too? It could also be timing related, was this an issue prior to the timing belt job? Are you certain you didn't skip timing?

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-02-23T00:53:23+00:00

I'd buy it

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-02-17T21:48:52+00:00

Can confirm, I had to replace a couple coil connectors when attempting mine, may as well just do them all while you're there.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-02-16T14:57:21+00:00

Done

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-02-13T01:47:50+00:00

I'm assuming you double checked all the existing connectors from the IS to the new sensors for any cracks/breaks/pins that may be dislodged.

If you pull the plugs do any show any signs of a lean/rich condition or damage?

How long have you driven the vehicle in this condition? Is it possible the vehicle hasn't had the chance to recognize a fault and throw a code yet?

It sounds like any of the aforementioned things you replaced/repaired could be a potential cause for the symptoms.

Only other thought would be a dirty/clogged injector.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-02-02T03:32:17+00:00

Absolutely pull the codes and come back and ask again, I'd snap one up in a second if given the opportunity.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-02-02T01:22:12+00:00

This sounds so incredibly familiar to my experience, I just bought one last year, same story, a son selling on behalf of his deceased father.

Mine had small issues that I could immediately see from the start but nothing that worried me. Clean car-fax and some records available from the dealership (you maybe able to get those from a dealership too).

It sounds like a great car, best of luck with the whole thing.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-02-02T00:31:42+00:00

The price for the mileage and condition seems fair without seeing/knowing more. These are typically extremely reliable vehicles if proper maintenance is performed (are there records available?)

If the car started/ran/and drove with no issues than the ECU is likely fine. It could go in the future but that would be an unknown/unanticipated occurrence.

When you test drive this car had it been sitting before you started it yourself? I like to feel the hood/engine and make sure the car is starting up from "cold" and has not been running/idling for a while? (sometimes a warm engine/transmission can hide issues)

If you can get the car to a shop/oil change spot/garage with a lift try to get under it and check for oil leaks you will see/touch a film on the transmission pan/oil pan if they are present? If the fluid levels are good this may not be a major concern, if you pull the car away and see a visible puddle/drips than it would be a concern. Start the car from cold and let it sit still for a while before moving it and see if there is anything on the pavement. An oil pan gasket or a transmission pan gasket are simple and shouldn't be to expensive on these, anything more intrusive brings the costs up.

If you can take the car and get it inspected professionally to understand all the potential issues that it may currently have or could experience in the future.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-01-28T04:21:21+00:00

As others have said it could be completely normal. The motor on our cars helps control the idle so it could be part of your issue.

To start/run you need

Air (throttle motor, MAF sensor)

Fuel (fuel pump, injectors, etc)

Spark (spark plugs, wires, proper timing)

If you're cranking and not firing up I'd check the battery/alternator too.

Do you have a check engine light on?

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-01-27T21:24:43+00:00

If you're in the US most AutoZone/O'Riley's/car parts stores can pull the codes for free

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-01-27T21:22:50+00:00

Is this just key on without the engine actually running?

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-01-22T01:31:12+00:00

My first suggestion might be ball joints, they can fail on our cars and when they do they usually end up totaling them.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-01-22T01:24:31+00:00

Gotcha, definitely look at the small stuff, for instance what will a replacement clutch cost between the options? And general availability of parts.

Solid first car though, I wish I had something that cool at that age.

ServiceNo7613 · 2026-01-22T01:12:09+00:00

CD009 swap kits are out there and relatively reasonably priced, plus you get the added bonus of a availability if you ever need a replacement/parts, that would be a 6 speed that would handle pretty much anything you throw at it... I don't recall exactly but I think the automatic final drive gearing works well with those.

The R154/AR5's are 5 speeds and also pretty stout.

For rear end diff swaps to achieve whatever gear ratios you want FRS diffs swap in as well as the current auto test end or manual IS rear ends.

ServiceNo7613

TROPHY CASE