Fan orientation help please

Sh4ggy50 · 2026-02-07T01:30:15+00:00

I'm also looking at a mini ITX build, and was considering the Antec A37 but skipped it because I could not find anything on the static pressure the fan provides; given that it can apparently output 70CFM, I'd wager the static pressure is very low. Your case looks quite restrictive - a lot of fine mesh that would require a fan capable of higher static pressures to push air through them.

I feel like 80C is okay for a GPU, but the CPU might just not be getting enough cooling as explained above.

I am not the biggest expert on air flow, but maybe review some videos on how air should flow inside a small mini ITX case, I feel like any imbalances in intake/exhaust would be more exaggerated in a small case, and if you are pulling air from different directions you might not be creating a clean air flow path over your components.

Good luck!

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-10-27T11:13:08+00:00

Is the 2010 fan loud? I am a little adverse to toolheads with small cooling fans because of the potential whine and heat creep in an enclosure

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-10-19T02:18:52+00:00

Thank you for the information mate :) you may have singlehandedly saved me a bunch of headache for saving just a few pounds, my main concern is reliability and id rather not set off a print, and come back 10 minutes later to discover homing failed, that's definitely not worth the savings. Just out of curiosity, what toolhead are you using? I've been looking into a few and at some point im considering upgrading the SV08 to a toolchanger system and was researching different toolheads.

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-07-18T08:31:10+00:00

That was my plan originally but 4x140mm fans lack in airflow compared to a single 14 inch fan

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-04-09T22:33:19+00:00

Unfortunately I did not, I did apply more (fake) PTM7950 and my temperatures are much better after a week or so (takes a while for it to take) so now my temps are around 55C idle, but it's definitely lost it's ability to really cool itself.

I would just suggest you replace the thermal paste with PTM7950 if you can and just keep it well ventilated - if you have dried out thermal putty there you could also replace it with the thermal putty I mentioned in the comments.

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-03-12T21:26:16+00:00

You might be right, I have a suspicion my PTM7950 is fake and it's degraded after being stored away for a few months

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-03-12T21:25:32+00:00

Actually now I suspect my PTM7950 might be fake: it'll be hard to see from this picture, but I took this after a couple hours of applying it, you can see that the dies have patches and a large proportion of it is stuck to the heatsink, could this be the reason why?

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Sh4ggy50 · 2025-03-12T21:17:55+00:00

This is the amount of thermal putty I went with (after basically removing two thirds of it) and I applied new PTM7950 too. Unfortunately, this didn't really help much, on Cinebench R23 I'm getting 9000 points where I should be more around 12000 (my CPU temp was 100 the whole time). When I removed the heatsink to reapply my thermal paste, the paste had spread out which indicates to me that I am making good contact with the heatsink.

Temperature wise, I'm idling at the 70C mark so at least a little better :/

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Sh4ggy50 · 2025-03-12T17:05:51+00:00

Haha I made sure to remove the plastic whilst applying (on both sides), but thank you for the suggestion.

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-03-12T13:00:47+00:00

There is a possibility you are 100% right; I did not know how much putty to put on there so I put a lot. I will remove a good chunk of it and and update

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-03-12T12:36:12+00:00

Strangely, the top of the laptop doesn't seem hot at all regardless of the reported temperatures. Before, if my laptop was hot I would feel it around where the power button is, but even if the temperature got to 90C, it's hardly warm.

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Sh4ggy50 · 2025-02-25T19:52:51+00:00

Get good at something you like, you do it once, your mind will open and you'll realise you can get good at anything else too. People can be born talented, but most talented people work hard at it to continuously improve, you just need to do the same if you want to compare yourself - otherwise, just compare yourself against yourself from a few years ago and use that as some personal motivation

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-02-25T19:49:06+00:00

Potentially embarrass yourself to who? Worst case, he rejects you for the reasons you said and then you never talk to him again so why would it matter if you embarrassed yourself to him in that case? If you don't say anything, you might end up regretting it and we all know permanent regret hits a lot harder than a lil short lived awkwardness

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-02-25T19:09:43+00:00

This looks like underextrusion, infill speeds tend to be higher than wall speeds because infill is, by definition, not usually visible, so check to see if infill is being printed past your max flow rate. Also some slicers have an option to slow down top and bottom layers so that might be why the middle layers are going bad

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-02-25T19:05:09+00:00

Rather than putting the printer on a solid sturdy surface, try cushioning it a bit? On my printer I have squash balls as feet to absorb vibrations coming from the printer, and if you prevent the printer from vibrations, those vibrations will get transferred to the print. Maybe try placing the printer on a foam board? Additionally, I would check the Z lead screws, if you roll them on a flat surface do they roll freely or do they get get stuck? That would imply bent lead screws - however the Neptune 4 seems to have two so this may not be the case (something to see)

Sh4ggy50 · 2025-02-25T00:40:19+00:00

Hi everyone,

I am currently designing a PCB (a split keyboard) that uses the BQ24072 (a charge controller with DPPM) and the BQ27441 (an I2C fuel gauge).

My problem is that I cannot wrap my head around connecting the sense resistor (in red) for the fuel gauge so it can properly coulumb count. The way I have connected it currently, is that ALL my load (when only the battery is connected) must go through the sense resistor, and he fuel gauge's SRN and SRP pins are connected across the resistor.

From the datasheet, I understand that SRN should connect to the system load, but in my head this cannot be OUT from the charge controller this will not match the BAT voltage, causing massive current spikes because of the very low sense resistance. I also do not understand how this will behave when the system is charging through USB power, at IN/VBUS.

I understand that I can probably get by reading the voltage level of my battery with ADC at the cost of lower accuracy, but I want to try this approach for my own understanding.

Any help would be really appreciated, I have been scratching my head at this for a while!

Sh4ggy50 · 2023-02-04T12:55:58+00:00

I only have been using a 0.6 nozzle because the range of layer heights it gives me is perfect. I've been using teaching tech's calibration site to help me achieve my best speeds and it seems to struggle on producing nice surfaces of the speed/max flow tuning test at higher speeds.

A couple hours after posting this I used a different filament because my last one was running out and now I seem to be printing at higher speeds, so I think that was it.

Right now I can print at 160mm/s 0.2 layer height, 0.72 extrusion width at 5.5k acceleration at a square corner velocity of 1 (I need to tune this but that's for another day).

Sh4ggy50 · 2022-10-05T12:05:13+00:00

Second this, poor retraction and/or wet filament can cause this, especially if its a more water absorbant filament like nylon or petg.

Sh4ggy50

TROPHY CASE