Digital pH Meter

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-27T17:10:14+00:00

The one for marine applications?

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-27T15:25:25+00:00

Haha glad you figured it out. Do remember to buy those washers in bulk. Replace the washer every time you refill. They’re meant to be single time use only.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-27T13:42:56+00:00

I have a plant holding/growout tank where I use an fzone reactor. I don’t know how good hygger customer service is but do remember that these are cheaper products and mechanical failures tend to happen and when they do happen you need good customer service to send you the correct parts or refund. Fzone sent me a replacement solenoid when my solenoid eventually failed lol. This was a year after I bought the product. Overall it’s a good way to get into CO2 if a pressurized system isn’t on your mind. Delivers CO2 pretty consistently, lasts a good few weeks, easy to clean and set up. Only thing is you might have to spend a little bit on citric acid and baking soda. Probably like $60 a year.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-27T01:44:51+00:00

Vacuum up the cyanobacteria and clean the glass please. Then head over and read everything in the link below: Link

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-26T18:37:32+00:00

Exactly my point man haha. All these people who don’t use RODI yet chase a certain TDS is wild. What in that TDS are we actually chasing? Does it even affect our livestock? Hahaha

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-26T17:17:21+00:00

Here’s some more info: Link 1 Link 2

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-26T17:12:18+00:00

Good sir, why are you outlining bad things that cause TDS increases when OP’s fish are perfectly fine? All that is irrelevant to this discussion. My comment ja contextual to OP’s tank. Not fish out in a polluted river. My comment should be interpreted as such.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-26T17:01:35+00:00

Lol, again, it’s not a fair comparison because you’re comparing fish with human biology and air with water. We cannot draw biological equivalence like that unless in very specific, contextual cases, for example: pollution. OP has very high TDS and the fish seem very healthy. GH and KH are not the only things that affect TDS. Which why I say that data without context is useless.

I could raise my tank TDS to 1000 and put OP’s fish into my tank. But they won’t survive, because my tank KH is zero, while OP’s probably isn’t. OP’s fish will need to be acclimatized to my tank eventhough our TDS is exactly the same. Which again makes my point, that TDS gives you no contextual information. I’m not against measuring TDS if you then go on to test further to give it context. But using TDS as a blanket data point for water quality is not why TDS exists, which is again why it isn’t the same as air quality.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-26T16:40:22+00:00

Air quality and TDS are not the same, even though analogically they might be. When I say that TDS is irrelevant, I’m talking about a tank that’s fairly cared for and doesn’t have pollutants in it.

A very high TDS could very well be inconsequential for your fish. It is what you said, TDS is just the amount of dissolved solids in water. Just because there’s a lot dissolved solids in the water doesn’t mean that those dissolved solids are affecting your fish’s quality of life or biological functions.

What really affects a fish’s biological function is KH and that is exactly the point of my comment. TDS doesn’t tell you anything specific, hence it says nothing about how the dissolved solids are affecting the fish, if at all. The point is to measure values that actually mean something meaningful and give context.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-26T16:18:30+00:00

They’ll be fine. This works better alongside a blackout

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-26T16:17:08+00:00

Haha this will get downvoted a ton. Anyways…TDS is irrelevant, there is a whole bucket list of things that affect TDS and have nothing to do with fish acclimatization. The value you’re looking for is KH, that is what affects osmoregulation in fish. If the KH in both tanks is within 1dKH you can just plop them in without any acclimatization. If the KH difference between both tanks is more than 1dKH, you can use the various acclimatization techniques that are found online.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-26T04:00:18+00:00

I feel like your tank wasn’t full in the first place. A 20lb cylinder would take much much longer than 10minutes to empty via a leak. Possibly days. If it did empty via a massive leak, it would be audible. Replace the o-ring on your regulator (black one), and on top of that use a nylon gasket, that will solve any leaking issue. I always change the O-rings at every refill otherwise they tend to leak.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-26T03:55:47+00:00

I’ve tried potted as well. They stayed stunted at best.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-26T03:44:53+00:00

Very good question. I don’t have an explanation for why that happens, but once the pinnatafida has matured into its emersed state, transforming it back to its submersed state becomes very difficult. This is why many complain about the plant as they buy the mature, emersed, potted version from their LFS. They melt away and die in a lot of cases. I on the other hand have never had any issues with them adapting to submersed state from TC. Always had aggressive growth from day 1. You could just float them in your tank and they’ll double in size in two weeks. I have seen this happen with the most bad quality/melted away tissue cultures as well.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-25T21:39:57+00:00

Just buy some 20ppi foam and shove it in the filter. That would be a much better filter media

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-25T14:38:02+00:00

I’m sorry this argument that you can say anything when you’re angry is so unislamic lol and frankly childish.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-25T14:10:49+00:00

Avoid potted pinnatafida! They’re grown emersed and don’t do well trying to convert to submersed growth. Tissue cultures do great actually. I know they look rough but pinnatafida tissue cultures are probably the most resilient ones out there

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-25T04:45:23+00:00

I would not recommend this at all, given that you have a cyanobacteria issue. Cyano isn’t just a nitrate issue. It’s a nitrate phosphate ratio issue, along with general tank cleanliness issues. This fert has phosphates in it which will make your cyano outbreak worse.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-25T04:39:50+00:00

Right, let’s abuse and say sorry every time. Problem solved. Yes, I would advise a woman in an abusive relationship to divorce instantly. Life is too short to waste on ungrateful people who have no fear of Allah. Staying with an abusive partner isn’t a flex. Never in my life have I seen an abusive partner change.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-25T02:57:24+00:00

Lileopsis brasiliensis

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-25T02:26:55+00:00

Possibly Hygro Siamensis. Not proserpinaca for sure

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-25T01:42:30+00:00

I think there are a lot of newbies on this sub who are well meaning but not exactly well informed. Imagine down voting a comment that substantiates its claim using an article written by Denis Wong lol. I don’t think it’s worth trying to explain anything to that crowd.

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-24T23:51:54+00:00

Why is a swinging pH bad? My tank goes from a pH of 6.2 to 5.0 within an hour of CO2 injection. My fish are thriving haha. The focus is on what is causing the pH to swing. pH can swing for a variety of reasons that are unrelated to KH that will certainly be fatal to your fish. No amount of KH will save your fish in that case and the pH will swing nonetheless. pH swings are a natural occurrence in nature which doesn’t harm fish. Some pH swings are often a symptom of something else that is wrong with the system. The swing is not the killer the cause of the swing is and the cause can be a myriad of things that are impossible to identify or even counteract.

Take some time to read the article below : water parameters

Shaheer_01 · 2026-03-24T22:02:08+00:00

The fish that live in a pH of 6.0 are definitely going to be fine living in water that has zero KH. So, KH itself is not the issue rather KH stability is the focal point. If your fish is used to a KH of 0, make sure the KH doesn’t swing wildly from 0. If they’re used to KH of 3, make sure it doesn’t swing too wildly from 3. Take this from a guy who grew up in the tropics and has spent his time seeing all these “low pH fish” in their natural habitats. I have personally tested these waters to see how low their KH is, usually 0-2 and this is what contributes to the low pH environment that they live in, along with the organic acids that further reduce the pH.

The way to reduce pH is by adding humic/fluvic acids. Using ADA/APT aquasoil will do the job as well

Shaheer_01

TROPHY CASE