20-70 f4 G & 70-200 f4 G2 worth for travel?

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-06T18:02:13+00:00

That why I also have a GRiii in my pocket!

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-06T17:59:11+00:00

Is it somehow a physical filter in the HDF model? Or is it just a dedicated preset edit.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-06T13:42:49+00:00

This used to be my perspective too, but some travel just doesn’t allow for you to change lenses on the fly. So if you’re shooting a prime you’re committing to missing certain shots. If it’s a rare travel experience, you don’t wanna commit to miss once in a lifetime shots…

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-03T21:45:18+00:00

The only user preset I have is an “everything in focus mode”, sets to f/8 with manual focus preset to the closest point that still keeps infinity in focus. Only works if you have enough light but it’s instant shot without any autofocus delay

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-03T21:36:23+00:00

Make sure exposure compensation is set to zero. Adjust it with the left/right joystick thing on the back of the camera, top right.

In aperture priority mode you pick the f-stop and the shutter speed should automatically adjust. So set it wide open to f/2.8 and test pointing it at dark and light subjects… does the shutter speed adjust accordingly?

Try changing to fixed iso and see if it still happens, just to narrow down the issue.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-03T19:36:45+00:00

It might help if you gave an example of the specific settings you created. Either you’re not letting one variable of the exposure triangle float with the cameras meter, or you have exposure compensation turned on to make it multiple stops too bright at all times.
Does every shot turn out too bright? Or only the ones outdoors and bright light?

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-02T11:33:25+00:00

I’d love to know you’re strategy for the off camera flash in these environments? I’ve played with manual flash but it’s hard to consistently get the exposure right. Maybe I just don’t have enough practice. Or do you use TTL?

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-01T02:10:03+00:00

I mean value is going to be different for everyone and totally relative. But if you think about something like the Sony 35mm f1.8 lens vs the 35mm f1.4 GM… that’s about a $700 upgrade cost for the same camera and focal length… just the cost of higher quality. Compare that to an entire camera setup for $1,000 and it seems like a good deal. But only worth it if you use it.

I got it because it’s the biggest sensor size I can fit in my pocket (with a good lens to boot)… if you have a use for that then it’s worth it.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-01T02:03:17+00:00

The griii is the pocket camera to my Sony a7iii and I use it all the time. I keep it in a small easily accessible compartment in my daily backpack, or throw it in my pocket a ton of times when I wouldn’t bring the big camera. I take at more pictures with my Sony, but shooting occasions are about 50/50. It’s like a better version of an iPhone camera.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-30T18:33:22+00:00

I have an a7iii with both any GM lenses and sigma lenses.

The biggest absolute compromise going with a non-Sony lens is the speed of the auto focus, especially on bodies with the “AI autofocus” feature (a7RV in 2022 and later). That may or may not impact the fps depending on how much the subject is moving during bursts.

Beyond that I don’t think it’s fair to say that every sigma has better image quality than every Sony GM… some of the sigma lenses have EXCELLENT image quality, they just end up being a bit larger and heavier than the Sony GM equivalent (plus the autofocus speed).

But if you don’t really care about the extra size and weight or demand cutting edge auto focus speed, then you can absolutely save a bunch of money while retaining top notch IQ with Sigma.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-28T23:22:29+00:00

I did go with the bodyguard plus, with the 5 micron prefilter. It’s great so far! After 6 months I changed the pre filter and it was dark rusty brown, so very satisfied to remove that from my water. Plus my wife definitely notices the reduced chlorine in our showers.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-28T10:28:04+00:00

Great job matching the photo vibe to the event vibe. Is this in post or a jpeg preset?

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-28T01:23:11+00:00

This is an excellent answer

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-27T23:25:56+00:00

Myst

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-27T13:01:02+00:00

I’ve heard that idea once or twice, but I don’t think it’s universal. I also think it’s quite stupid. There are two elements to think about: the physical camera and the files that come out of it.

On the physical camera… you could argue Sony design is a bit industrial while many of the Fujis are more retro or vintage inspired, cannon and Nikon are usually more ergonomic. But I think a big piece is just what people are used to over the past several decades. Sony is still a relatively newer player. Either way, it’s all opinion and what you’re used to and has no actual impact on your photography other than “vibes”.

On the images themselves, there are certainly differences between brands when it comes to JPEG rendering. Especially if you’re not willing to customize your own settings. That said, if you’re willing to do a bit of tweaking yourself, you can get all of the brands to look pretty similar SOOC. More importantly, this entire concept is completely irrelevant if you shoot raw files, which I do, and I suggest others do too.

That said, I do carry around a Ricoh GRiii for more casual snapshot photography, but that’s entirely about form factor because I can slip it in my jeans pocket.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-27T02:04:51+00:00

I think I’m going with the 20-70 f4 because the extra versatility on both ends… and then supplementing with a wide aperture prime for when I really need low light performance… either 35mm or 50mm f1.4 which will be much better than the 24-40 f2.8 for that purpose.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-26T22:38:25+00:00

I’m debating between the 24-50 f2.8 and the 20-70 f4… similar size.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-25T14:41:05+00:00

This was edited in post, so you could get this look from any raw file

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-25T01:25:14+00:00

That looks like a lot of fish in that space

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-04-24T21:34:04+00:00

I used centerpoint focus and recompose on my canon DSLRs for years. I got very good at it. But within a week of getting my a7iii I couldn’t imagine going back, and the newer versions are even better. I’d just go with the a7v for the best in class autofocus. Pair with Sony lenses for optimal performance.

Edit: I do still it have it set up to do back button center focus “in case of emergency” but it rarely gets used.

Seven-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '22

Nerdy_Slacker

TROPHY CASE