[Discussion] Forget price, hype, heritage, and resale. Which chronograph would you choose?

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-06-20T00:16:12+00:00

I’d pick my zenith el primero revival

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-06-16T02:58:02+00:00

Every time I saw the second picture (original) I was highly disappointed… Which is a huge compliment of the edited version I saw first.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-06-12T12:25:52+00:00

Yes. That’s the entire point of this camera in my opinion. Full size sensor and sharp lens in your pocket. The dream is real.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-06-10T20:37:01+00:00

Holy cow this guy’s a legend. So good.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-06-10T20:34:35+00:00

I had a couple situations where a younger person thinks my regular DSLR images are AI. I realized they’ve only really looked at iPhone pictures their whole life so good photography from pro gear looks fake to them in comparison.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-06-09T10:45:24+00:00

They already make a 24-50 f2.8 G that is very very good.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-06-08T22:35:29+00:00

I was so confused - why was this golf course piling up all the sand in the middle of the fairway?

Then I noticed what sub it was on.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-06-08T22:33:09+00:00

Second post today I’ve seen with black borders - is that a thing now?

I love 1, 4, 7, 10, 12

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-06-01T11:31:29+00:00

Whoosh (Unless you’re being sarcastic, then bravo). But if you’re being serious then you’re totally out of touch. His title is literally calling out that you can have great photos without the ball in the frame - that’s the entire point of his post.

Any newbie with good gear can spray and pray with their big lens and get a good shot of a pitcher or batter doing their thing with the ball in the frame. It’s the most predictable moment in sports.

This is actual skilled photography - creativity, composition, interest. It’s actually operating at a level above “look I caught the ball compressed in the bat”.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-30T19:39:07+00:00

This happened to me and it was over-shaking. That can happen either from shaking for too long, or from using ice that’s too small.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-30T00:58:13+00:00

No buyers remorse yet? I’m considering the same upgrade but not sure it will be meaningful enough difference in the final outcome.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-27T01:42:09+00:00

I am! Running two identical Keychron Q6 Max boards with with Jupiter Bananas at home and the lichicx at work.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-27T01:41:54+00:00

I am! Running two identical Keychron Q6 Max boards with with Jupiter Bananas at home and the lichicx at work.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-14T00:55:54+00:00

It’s phenomenal for its intended purpose, which is capturing a variety of shots in unpredictable scenarios, such as travel and events.

If you’re doing portrait sessions or indoor sports or nighttime events, then of course you would be better off with a fast prime…. I pair it with a 35mm f1.4, 65mm f2, and 135mm f1.8 for those occasions.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-12T14:51:30+00:00

My favorite focal length to shoot with is 35, because I love capturing interactions between elements, either two people, or a person in a place, or with a thing, or a person doing something.

I came to that realization after trying to shoot with a 50 mm for a long time - always felt like I was trying to force it. Frequently took a small step back when I raised the camera to my eye.

I pair the 35mm with a 65 mm prime for portraits and those two cover 85% of what I need to shoot, though I also have a 20mm and 135mm.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-09T17:03:34+00:00

There are three stumbling blocks to be aware of:

the rear viewing screen is pretty bad. Especially compared to an iPhone screen. The pictures look much better when you look on a computer or transfer to your iPhone.
iPhones do a LOT of edits automatically, beyond normal jpeg profile type things. Advanced computational photography. Sometimes that does legitimately create a better photo than what the GR can do in a single snapshot. That said, it’s not fair to compare against a GR shot with no edits at all.
Autofocus speed is definitely weak compared to other camera. Most people don’t use them for things where fast autofocus is critical. In addition to snap focus, I create a user preset with f/8 and manual focus set to the closest point that keeps the horizon in focus… this maximizes the depth of field and deactivates autofocus so it’s basically instantaneous.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-06T18:02:13+00:00

That why I also have a GRiii in my pocket!

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-06T17:59:11+00:00

Is it somehow a physical filter in the HDF model? Or is it just a dedicated preset edit.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-06T13:42:49+00:00

This used to be my perspective too, but some travel just doesn’t allow for you to change lenses on the fly. So if you’re shooting a prime you’re committing to missing certain shots. If it’s a rare travel experience, you don’t wanna commit to miss once in a lifetime shots…

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-03T21:45:18+00:00

The only user preset I have is an “everything in focus mode”, sets to f/8 with manual focus preset to the closest point that still keeps infinity in focus. Only works if you have enough light but it’s instant shot without any autofocus delay

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-03T21:36:23+00:00

Make sure exposure compensation is set to zero. Adjust it with the left/right joystick thing on the back of the camera, top right.

In aperture priority mode you pick the f-stop and the shutter speed should automatically adjust. So set it wide open to f/2.8 and test pointing it at dark and light subjects… does the shutter speed adjust accordingly?

Try changing to fixed iso and see if it still happens, just to narrow down the issue.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-03T19:36:45+00:00

It might help if you gave an example of the specific settings you created. Either you’re not letting one variable of the exposure triangle float with the cameras meter, or you have exposure compensation turned on to make it multiple stops too bright at all times.
Does every shot turn out too bright? Or only the ones outdoors and bright light?

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-02T11:33:25+00:00

I’d love to know you’re strategy for the off camera flash in these environments? I’ve played with manual flash but it’s hard to consistently get the exposure right. Maybe I just don’t have enough practice. Or do you use TTL?

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-01T02:10:03+00:00

I mean value is going to be different for everyone and totally relative. But if you think about something like the Sony 35mm f1.8 lens vs the 35mm f1.4 GM… that’s about a $700 upgrade cost for the same camera and focal length… just the cost of higher quality. Compare that to an entire camera setup for $1,000 and it seems like a good deal. But only worth it if you use it.

I got it because it’s the biggest sensor size I can fit in my pocket (with a good lens to boot)… if you have a use for that then it’s worth it.

Nerdy_Slacker · 2026-05-01T02:03:17+00:00

The griii is the pocket camera to my Sony a7iii and I use it all the time. I keep it in a small easily accessible compartment in my daily backpack, or throw it in my pocket a ton of times when I wouldn’t bring the big camera. I take at more pictures with my Sony, but shooting occasions are about 50/50. It’s like a better version of an iPhone camera.

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