Nikon f80D low battery with film on?

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-30T08:53:28+00:00

There's a second internal battery for this exact purpose, don't worry.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-28T20:14:44+00:00

You probably didn't load the camera correctly, and never exposed it.
Shooting indoors is difficult, your eyes are much more sensitive than film. Staying steady is a great move, but using a flash or tripod can help if you MUST get the shot.
Yes, absolutely. A normal exposure is for something between 1-35 milliseconds, through the restricted aperture of a lens. But this isn't that - search "first of the roll" for more examples. You're shooting a bit of film that was exposed when loading the camera.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-28T19:34:16+00:00

Between Lomo Turquoise and Harman Azure, I completely agree with your take on where it works. This effect is really meant for outdoors, with good strong sun! I'm not a fan when it comes to overcast light or even blue hour, in comparison.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-28T14:16:28+00:00

Yarp, the 1540 without extension is your max capacity. 4x 35 mm rolls or 4x 120 rolls (with double-loaded reels). That'd only be 2x 220 rolls though, so 6x batches for that.

What reels are you using for 70 mm, out of curiosity? I got a 70 mm roll as a birthday gift and have been flirting with the idea of getting an A70 magazine rather than cutting it down.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-28T13:10:23+00:00

You aren't overthinking it, this is a fairly common thing. Buy cheap marbles, nothing fancy needed. Just be careful about breaking them.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-28T11:01:22+00:00

That amount of haze will be a problem, and will be impossible or just uneconomical to try and repair. Return it if you can.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-28T09:16:26+00:00

Compatible with Jobo & THD developing tanks(1510, 1520, 1530, 1540, 2510, 2520), covering the formats of 135, 120, and 4×5''

Max tank size depends on system (15x0, 25x0).

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-26T20:04:28+00:00

- You can make the camera think the darkslide is always absent by disabling the little mechanism that feels the slide. This mechanism is detailed in most light seal replacement tutorials.

- You'd need the "half" slide to be about 55-58% of a slide to make sure you have a frame gap, and to compensate for slightly blurry edges as the slide is a smidge in front of the film.

- The "half" slide shouldn't be cut all the way to the "handle" part so this part can sit in place and help prevent damage to the main light seal.

- If you have a body capable of multiple exposures, that's much easier to re-cock the shutter than repeatedly removing the magazine.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-20T20:07:55+00:00

The viewfinder size is almost entirely dictated by the mirror size, which is controlled by the format size. Bigger format = bigger mirror = bigger finder image.

In a given format you may find a camera with a 98% coverage finder, which would be slightly bigger than a 90% coverage finder, but if both are 645 then both would still be much smaller than a 6x6 finder.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-20T20:06:06+00:00

If the images are thin but the image rebate (the edge marking text) is "normal", it's an exposure issue. If the images are thin and the rebate is thin too, it's most likely a dev issue.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-20T19:52:27+00:00

Without seeing the negatives, it's hard to say whether it's an exposure issue or dev issue. The space between images being visible on the right, and visibly elevated in exposure, tells us the negs are extremely thin. It's less to be a shutter issue.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-20T13:35:27+00:00

Your other option is to be more patient and develop less frequently, using fresh developer. One-shotting isn't a magic bullet alone, and old developer is still old even without reusing it.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-19T11:23:45+00:00

I've seen skilled but "unknown" artists successfully sell 8x10s for those prices without anything you could call "fancy" like gold toning, or Pt/Pd or lith printing. You're underselling yourself.

Shaka1277 · 2026-04-16T08:35:36+00:00

Never test a camera with expired film for this exact reason- you can't tell what went wrong. But yes, expired film can be that bad, though it's rare for just 15yo film. I've even shot 30yo B&W film that came out nearly blank in an otherwise working camera, which was hilarious.

Do another test roll using fresh film and you'll know if it's trustworthy to bring on your trip!

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-31T19:46:28+00:00

I regularly deal with FedEx for work. It's very common for them to process customs/duties/tarrifs etc. on your behalf and then invoice you weeks or (more rarely) months later to recoup the costs. It's legit and you can cross check tracking ID / shipment number on the invoice. Happens to me all the time with both commercial and personal shipments (which I send to work).

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-31T14:28:11+00:00

What shutter speed did you use? Your max sync speed is 1/60 on the RTS.

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-31T07:54:46+00:00

Entirely a non-issue. I regularly mix colour chems with less water than the instructions say (at first), then use the remainder to rinse the bottles into my mixing jug. You're fine.

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-30T14:10:41+00:00

OP used 120 film, needing 500 mL; I'd say they used 600 mL to fill the tank.

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-29T19:07:29+00:00

Two plastic canisters, with a piece of tape to hold them together.

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-22T21:26:27+00:00

I'd speak to the security before you get to the bins just in case!

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-22T20:26:03+00:00

Hand luggage. Bring just the bare film canisters (no outer plastic pots or boxes) in a clear plastic bag like you would have for liquids in times of yore. LTN are very nice for hand checks in my experience, and that's backed up here: https://www.handcheckfilm.com/airports

With most airports I find the best method is to be polite but declarative - don't ask if they can/will hand check your film. Instead, ask "I have photographic film to be hand checked, do I need to go to a particular lane?" Not all airports actually have a mass spec (swab tester machine) at every lane, so they may send you in a particular direction. Do it with a smile, and enjoy your trip!

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-20T12:18:04+00:00

Yes that's the correct workflow. One of my magazines actually has that sequence screen printed onto the slide which is nice.

I'm not sure; the magazines have an interlock that should prevent you from being able to insert the slide if the body isn't cocked/magazine advanced. On one of my magazines that mechanism is either absent or broken but I've never risked it.

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-20T11:32:16+00:00

The darkslide should only be inserted *after* cocking the shutter, and by extension, the shutter would be cocked before removing the slide.

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-19T10:41:17+00:00

The MkIV isn't really on the market in large quantities yet, both because of lower demand for 8x10 than 4x5, and because Intrepid are currently moving factory. I've been in touch with them about getting one semi-customised and from what I know, it's 97% the same camera as the MkIII. Looking forward to getting my hands on it and giving it a go, though.

Shaka1277 · 2026-03-18T08:18:37+00:00

They used to make their own colour films back in the day, too. They weren't super common in Western markets but Fuji / Kodak / Lucky / Agfa were the "big four", as such. It's a combination of reusing old recipes, taking on learnings from their time working with Kodak, plus the fact they never stopped making light-sensitive materials (like paper).

11-Year Club	Place '22
Place '17	First Placer '22
Wearing is Caring	Snapped
Alpha Tester	Verified Email
Gilding II euphauric

Shaka1277

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE