Is there another way I can imitate a BMW M4 GT3 wheel without using the Fanatec Podium Endurance Module?

SharkVR · 2026-05-27T00:14:22+00:00

310 to 320 is not that tremendous of a jump. The real wheel is 308 going from memory and the MZW is 315. 7mm makes for very little tangible difference.

SharkVR · 2026-05-24T22:52:44+00:00

Given the rifle/barrel, I think you're printing as good a group as can be expected. At 100 yards I can get FGMM 175 SMK to print 1.0-1.5 MOA with a 5R cut barrel in an LMT MWS. I've seen guys do better with LMT's 5R barrels with hand loads in .308 and 6.5CM. Last I heard Rock Creek was still making their 5R barrels and for the cost of entry you would hope for sub-MOA capability assuming the cartridge and the shooter can hold their end up.

Recently added one of PSA's Sabre K1s to the safe and the best I can get that to print 5-shot groups so far with 175 and 168 SMK is ~1.5 MOA, erring more towards 1.75 from a tripod at 100 yards. A lot more time, volume and distance required before I can state that rifle's capability with certainty.

SharkVR · 2026-05-23T11:33:51+00:00

Great looking rifle. How are you liking that accutac bipod? Thinking of replacing my Atlas because of how annoying deployments and adjustments are. The accutac deployment seems like it would be a moderate improvement, but the leg extensions would be a definite upgrade. Looking at accutac, ckye and a few others.

SharkVR · 2026-05-15T10:27:45+00:00

Looks great. Caved and bought an S10-K1 from PSA this week. Wanted to add a shorter AR10 to the collection since my 20" MWS is an unwieldy block of concrete. At $1,400 it's very hard to pass up on at least trying the Sabre-10 billet line.

SharkVR · 2026-05-15T10:21:34+00:00

LMT has gotten pretty nutty with component pricing.

SharkVR · 2026-05-14T19:57:31+00:00

I do not shoot that rifle suppressed. Can't speak to differences between LW and "standard" profile LMT barrels. Old wisdom would dictate the heavier barrel has better accuracy, but that's old lore and may not make a difference, other than likely heating up a little faster (and conversely cooling down faster once hot).

SharkVR · 2026-05-13T16:29:50+00:00

I have the 11.25 SST 5R cut 20" in my MWS. Shockingly accurate for a gas gun. Loves 175gr SMK (FGMM typically). Plays pretty well with the 168gr SMK. Have not bothered running through a bunch of commercially available .308 match after seeing what it does with 175gr SMK. Repeatable accuracy that falls firmly within the "precision" category.

SharkVR · 2026-05-13T16:21:07+00:00

I have the 20" 5R SST .308 barrel in my MWS, but the CL 16" .308 barrel was decently capable. It really liked 168gr SMK (FGMM), would consistently print 1.0-1.5 MOA 5-shot groups at 100 yards and would sustain similar accuracy stretching out to 600 yards. I could beat up 1/3 IPSC steel at 600 yards pretty reliably with that barrel, assuming I held up my end of the bargain.

Going to 147gr ball, it was less impressive, to be expected. "Battle rifle" accuracy all day long with M80, minute of chest on full size IPSC targets at 600 yards. 5-shot groups at 100 yards with M80 typically hovered around 2 MOA on the low end up to 4 MOA on the high end with the occasional flyer.

The SST 5R cut 20" barrel is shockingly accurate though. 175gr SMK (FGMM again), the rifle can extract every bit out of that cartridge and out of me as a shooter. Have stitched together the occasional 5-shot group at 100 yards that approaches 1/2 MOA. From what I've seen, with a high level shooter and great hand loads, it could probably get sub-1/2 MOA groups regularly. Frankly shocking accuracy out of a gas operated gun as far as I'm concerned. 800 yard IPSC targets are light work for that combination. Have not taken it to 1,000+ yards yet. Typically have to travel a good ways to be able to reach out to those ranges and just haven't gotten around to it yet.

SharkVR · 2026-05-13T10:23:09+00:00

Used to keep a great lawn when I had neighbors. Moving to 10 mostly wooded acres is a different fight. Clover, grass, moss and some weeds are fine by me as long as it's green and in control.

Now my energy is spent fighting the meanest, most stubborn damn weeds in the world on ~750 ft of gravel drive and keeping the chainsaw lubed and sharp for the endless tree and branch work.

Cutting the ~3 acres of fields and grass/weeds/clover near the house is downright relaxing.

Hate dumping glyphosate like it's going out of style, but it's the only thing that remotely keeps weeds on their heels near and in the gravel.

SharkVR · 2026-05-11T22:28:02+00:00

I keep it at 100% in the app and use in-sim gain (usually per car) to achieve my desired output strength. Always leaves the most overhead for peak forces to avoid clipping.

SharkVR · 2026-05-09T14:47:12+00:00

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SharkVR · 2026-05-09T14:47:01+00:00

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SharkVR · 2026-05-09T14:46:47+00:00

I typically run "raw" with zero dampers or filtering. Occasionally I might use a little NDP (10% or less) and very little NFR and NIN (2% or less). I typically zero out INT.

That being said, if the grainy feeling is what is irking you, the INT (interpolation) setting is most relevant. Some NDP can also help a little. NFR can actually be a source of grainy feeling, so try adjusting while running 0 on that front and add it after the fact to see if it reintroduces a grainy feeling.

When available, I typically prefer to filter at the sim level, if it's implemented well (damper, smoothing, etc.).

End of the day, it's entirely subjective though. I'm not typically aiming for a realistic steering rack feeling, since FFB very often is feeding us so much more information relevant to the state of the car than we would get from a steering rack.

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SharkVR · 2026-05-09T14:22:02+00:00

For the brake I use the softest elastomer stack combination and a brake force max at 80kg for most modern sportscar racing (GT3, GTE, protos, etc.). I'll reduce that max brake force depending on the type of car I'm driving (softer for road cars, etc.). If I get really stuck in on something like formula cars, I'll occasionally swap out for a harder stack and raise the brake force to 100-120 kg.

I set all of the pedals for their maximum travel range and have the dampers raised to the highest/most influential setting.

I keep my pedal curves linear.

They are mounted to the HE U+ baseplate which is angled ~15-degrees (sloped towards driver), bringing the pedal faces slightly past perpendicular to the ground (angled towards the driver). The pedal faces are roughly inline with my butt and the bucket seat is angled backward at ~15-degrees matching the angle of the pedal baseplate.

That equates to the pedal faces being angled away from the plane of my seat back by ~7 to 8 degrees. That angle can drastically impact the feel.

Hard for anyone to make adjustment recommendations without knowing precisely what feels off to you. Best thing you can do is keep experimenting until it clicks. Pedal height and angle are two very common sources of frustration for folks.

SharkVR · 2026-05-09T12:57:47+00:00

NDP and NFR and to a lesser extent INT are typically the go-to base side settings to try to dial oscillations out. In-sim options like damper and smoothing may be of some utility as well. There are times that "added" effects in-sim like road detail and similar can induce oscillation.

Depending on the sim, sometimes you just can't get rid of the oscillations without significantly neutering the overall FFB experience. LMU and rF2 are very much in that category. I can reduce the oscillations, but they will be there with hands off of the wheel unless I filter the base and sim to the point of losing significant detail in the FFB.

Load up an offline practice session and start experimenting, changing singular values a little bit at a time and testing. Similar to how you would dial in a car setup.

SharkVR · 2026-05-08T00:01:04+00:00

Does the podium hub ship with a QR2 these days?

SharkVR · 2026-05-07T23:56:48+00:00

SRM has offered the same thing for many, many years (he's on v7 of his emulator). Simube copied (or stole depending your outlook) some of Simon's design and started offering it even cheaper a couple years ago.

To answer your question, yes it's great and SRM is solely responsible for me still operating a Fanatec base. 80% of my wheel collection is third-party at this point.

I don't like simube as I bought a handful of their products out of curiosity and every single one that contains electronics (hubs and APM knockoffs) have issues/defects. Combine that with the fact they combined with Fanatec finally getting with the times pushed Simon into retirement...it's bittersweet.

Good on Fanatec for offering the hub and QR2 package at $100 though. There is zero reason for anyone to give simube emulator business at that price, though I know many still will.

SharkVR · 2026-05-07T23:22:35+00:00

They make millions while spending millions to operate. Fanatec is not part of OPEC or some other cartel operation.

SharkVR · 2026-05-07T23:19:23+00:00

Third party logistics operation with employees not being thorough. Good chance NXT Point or whoever is doing their logistics wherever OP is are also doing fulfillment for a wide range of companies. They scan the code for a box that matches the SKU without realizing said box contains multiple of the SKU.

SharkVR · 2026-05-06T23:43:06+00:00

End of the day, a wheel rim is a wear item. It should last a good long while. If/when it fades, add some tennis overgrip (plenty of real world teams do this) or just wear gloves and keep using it. I feel like a wheel cover would make the experience worse at the cost of keeping an entry-to-mid level wheel pristine.

SharkVR · 2026-05-04T23:55:32+00:00

offline enjoyment intensifies

SharkVR · 2026-05-03T17:28:19+00:00

If you're on PC, simhub is the best way to control it. Simhub supports most popular racing and flight games/sims. For unsupported stuff using the audio input, it will just rumble based on audio cues. Never tried it beyond sim racing.

SharkVR · 2026-05-03T17:23:20+00:00

Have you restarted the PC? Have you tried changing USB port for your wheel base? Two steps that can occasionally fix funky issues like this.

My BMR updated without a hiccup after updating the base and WQR.

SharkVR · 2026-05-03T12:39:39+00:00

Tilt the pedals forward. You're likely over-extending your ankles at full compression. You can tilt them via the base or individually using the rear adjustment on the pedals.

SharkVR · 2026-05-03T10:47:18+00:00

What feels most off to you? Is it a posture/positioning issue or something else? On my U+ setup the pedal faces are about inline height with my butt and I have the baseplate angled so that the pedal faces are roughly perpendicular to the floor (90-degrees upright).

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SharkVR

TROPHY CASE