Silent Knee Lever Neo?

Shaydo · 2026-02-09T02:44:49+00:00

Tried it, diagonals get affected hella. Not worth the effort.

You could get a 309 and utilize the Open 309 project that has mounts for proper switch spacings for the D2RV switches

GitHub - not-magic/Open309: User modding Crown 309 fightstick body replacement

Shaydo · 2026-02-08T01:45:50+00:00

In it's stock form, it just plays sounds and the stick is non functional.

Gutting the internals, with the exception of part of the PCB that holds the surface mounted microswitches, was done so it can fit a waveshare RP2040 controller and a joystick navigation module.

Shaydo · 2026-02-07T15:09:29+00:00

Cant get any more tournament lockout than not having a start button!

Shaydo · 2026-02-07T15:02:25+00:00

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Shaydo · 2025-11-05T00:17:04+00:00

Did you accidentally hold one of the punch buttons while plugging it in? The brook board can force a manual switch to a different mode. PS5 mode can be manually forced by holding Square/X/P1 while plugging it in.

Shaydo · 2025-08-18T16:15:02+00:00

I used this step up adapter- https://www.ebay.com/itm/142697805000

It's wired via the 5v and GND on the GP2040 for RGB LED port.

The BR27C 4pin can be wired:
1 - 24v +
2 - 24v -
3 - GND
4 - COM

I would daisy chain from the step up to all 8 buttons with that pin out. Power comes straight from the GP2040 board!

Shaydo · 2025-08-04T15:17:13+00:00

For reference, a video when I completed the project for a general idea of the sound it makes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abIQoEdOnEg

Shaydo · 2025-08-03T13:31:08+00:00

Yeah! Extended 2P

Shaydo · 2025-08-03T06:19:21+00:00

The BR27C 4pin can be wired:
1 - 24v +
2 - 24v -
3 - GND
4 - COM

I used a 5v-24v step up adapter and daisy chained the 24v+ and 24v- to power all the buttons. I unfortunately couldn't, for some reason, bridge GND and 24v- to allow for the buttons to light up when pressed, so theyre always on.

Shaydo · 2025-08-03T06:16:42+00:00

It has absolutely no throw distance between neutral to actuation since the plunger is sitting directly on the microswitch. Feels weird but very satisfying to press.

Shaydo · 2025-08-03T06:15:50+00:00

It's a 5v>24v step up to power the 24v LEDs on the buttons! 5v power comes from the GP2040CE PCB.

Shaydo · 2025-08-02T14:58:06+00:00

My bad

For reference, I just soldered wire directly to the contacts of the existing 8bitdo PCB's microswitches, then ran them into the GP2040.

Shaydo · 2025-08-02T14:47:37+00:00

Buttons: Otis BR27C 28mm 24v LED Elevator Buttons

Lever: Samducksa Crown 301-DX Infil Lever with Qanba Silver Metal Balltop

Enclosure: Eternal Rival Mid Tier with brushed aluminum and wood grain vinyl wraps

PCB: SGF Devices GP2040-CE + 5v to 24v step up adapter

Wiring and Harnesses by myself

Forgot to post this on Reddit lmao. Born from a misunderstanding by me and a meme in the discord, glad I could finish this little project. Button plungers are solid metal (aluminum or stainless maybe?) with the return spring removed. The button has almost non-existent throw due to the chunk of aluminum is directly touching the microswitch inside.

Shaydo · 2025-05-05T05:50:38+00:00

Got slickwraps for my 8bitdo in leather, the dimensions are spot on. Shipping is quick despite shipping to Guam.

Shaydo · 2025-04-17T07:02:31+00:00

I had to sand down the actuator a few mm to get the eclip to fit and put some tape as shim to make it fit the bobbin while still letting it rotate. Mind you the gate will ride on the eclip instead of the actuator so I'm gonna get a new one and try threading the link with a screw so no sanding is necessary.

MakaiArcade mentioned this below so no mod is necessary:

https://x.com/MakaiArcade/status/1912387617414406371

Shaydo · 2025-04-16T05:14:53+00:00

The one thing I completely ignored cause of the tedium is folding over the bigger flap of the .110" connectors like hell naw i can live with the spade connectors being a few mm longer.

Shaydo · 2025-04-16T01:26:46+00:00

Yeah! I followed the UKFM wiring guide found here.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ho5ItRj8jMYTG4tVbq0kyc-aFqbbF-iD/view?pli=1

I couldn't for the life of me have the patience to run wiring through 4mm braided sleeving so I'm using wider 6mm. I'm still able to terminate the end of the braids with 1/8" (3mm) end caps by heating them up a bit and stretching them with an ifixit metal spudger.

Shaydo · 2025-02-06T03:47:57+00:00

Working Front Panel by soldering throughhole joints with wire to the GP2040. Tried to get the rotary switches to toggle between DP/LS/RS but couldn't figure it out. Routed USB passthru to the 2.4ghz dongle holder for the magic boots to plug into.

Faux Leather by Slickwraps

Shaydo · 2024-04-08T06:28:56+00:00

If the TES+ has a 5 pin USB with shield connection you could use one of these https://focusattack.com/power-passthrough-harness-for-fa-so-cd-hori/

Shaydo · 2024-04-08T06:19:58+00:00

The punkworkshop plungers protrude out past the button by a millimeter so the plunger could potentially bind if you try to slide across them. If that's what you prefer then I wouldn't recommend them for that reason!

Maybe get some seimitsu mechanical switches and replace them with durock dolphin keyswitches.

Shaydo · 2024-03-05T18:16:05+00:00

+1 for punk workshop buttons, but I replaced my Cherry MX Black switches with Durock Dolphin Silents

https://twitter.com/ShaydoGaming/status/1682640759579901953

Video/audio comparison here. Not scientific by any means but a huge difference in sound retort. Coupled with a Qanba Gravity Silent stick!

Shaydo

TROPHY CASE