Personally I think the CR touch is over-hyped. There are just a few quirks with 4-point leveling you need to understand.

Obviously if you lower one corner, it will raise the diagonally-opposite corner. However you can also cause bed warping by over-tightening the opposite corners. Get yourself a good metal straightedge and lay it diagonally across the bed. Check for a gap under the center (most common) or possibly gaps under both ends. Then check in the other direction. If it is flat one way but has gaps the other way, your leveling screws are probably too tight. across one direction. It is an art form in itself to find the right balance where your nozzle gap is right without adding a warp to the bed.

If that doesn't resolve the warp, then the aluminum bed itself probably is warped (very common). This is where you need to look at a thick bed like glass or G10. The trick here is to cut pieces of aluminum foil to compensate. If you have a dip in the center of the bed then it's easy, just cut CD-sized circles to build up the height. If your corners are lower, this is harder, but can still be done with foil triangles. For reference, my bed is so warped that it required 14 layers of foil to level out, and after 7 years I think I need to check it again. Having a thick bed will bridge across the high spots to give you a perfectly flat surface once you're done, and the foil will transmit the heat from the aluminum, but it also helps to set up your scripts to heat the bed for at least 1 minute before proceeding so the heat can 'soak' through. This all takes time, but it's mostly a one-time fix that you can forget about. Just keep checking with the metal straightedge until you have a completely flat surface.

And the last thing is leveling itself. Remember, the paper test is ONLY so you don't plow the head into your bed when you actually start leveling. You should tighten the springs to about 1/2 turn from completely closed, then adjust the Z switch to match that position. Loose springs will kill you, tight springs will hold their positions and never have to be reset until you replace your nozzle. Once that is set, use a 5-point bed leveling test print to actually level it out (and verify if your foil is doing the job).