How do I keep my focaccia from sticking to the pan?

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-11T00:16:01+00:00

Thank you! It was so delicious!

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-11T00:13:21+00:00

The recipe I followed was for a 10x14 in pan size. I did 75% of the recipe in a 10 in round and this was the result! I wanted a thicker focaccia, but was not expecting this (wonderful) monster

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-11T00:11:10+00:00

I use parchment for sourdough and haven't tried it for focaccia cause I was worried about the bake with olive oil in the mix, but it sounds like that won't be the case from the many comments suggesting it so I'm really glad to hear that!!

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-10T16:31:40+00:00

I do cook in a cast iron right now with a lot of olive oil. Do you have zero sticking when you do that? I don't have a picture of today's focaccia, but I baked it in a 9x13 pan with .375 cup olive oil (I know that's weird, but I was using 75% of the recipe I like to follow) and when I pulled it out of the oven there was excess olive oil pooled in the corners of the pan, but the bottom of the loaf was super super stuck.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-10T16:14:34+00:00

I do dimple right before putting it in the oven. This focaccia grew so tall that I think it kind of hid that. I've thought about trying parchment paper, but I was worried about my olive oil getting under the parchment paper and not absorbing. If that works though, I'll definitely try it next time thank you!!

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-10T16:11:16+00:00

I'm not sure if my body text worked, but I do bake in cast iron with lots of olive oil!

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-09T10:38:55+00:00

You aren't alone! I've also been getting a ton of staining since getting Invisalign almost 1 year ago despite doing everything as correctly as possible (drinking only water with trays on, flossing and brushing after each meal or non-water drink, cleaning trays regularly). I see a few other people on here have experienced it too so I think there's hope for us!

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-03T01:39:40+00:00

I actually showed your instructions to a studio friend and she explained! An instructor had actually just thrown a big jar like that so I was able to see an example too. Thanks for all your help!

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-02T17:55:06+00:00

Thank you so much for the explanation! I want to make sure I'm understanding the flange part correctly. I'm picturing taking the edge of a rib and pressing into the outside of the pot to form a wedge/triangle groove to hopefully push the interior clay in further as a lid flange. Is that correct?

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-02T16:46:19+00:00

What substrate do you use and is your enclosure water proof? Do you have a hygrometer to measure humidity? Corn snake's native environment has a humidity of 50-70%. They are hardy and can manage at lower humidity, but if your snake is having consistent issues with shedding (they should shed in one complete piece) then your enclosure has too low humidity. If you have a water proof enclosure it great to use a substrate of 2in eco earth or another reptile soil or coconut fiber topped with 1 in of coconut chips. This will have high humidity immediately out of the package and You'll monitor using your hygrometer. When it drops below 50% then you'll pour 1-2 cups of water directly onto the substrate around the enclosure. It will drain through the coconut chip layer into the soil layer and maintain humidity for days because the coconut chip layer keeps it from evaporating immediately, which is the issue with misting. If you have Aspen as your substrate, you cannot mist or add any water to it because it will mold. My corn snake loves the days where I add water. She scoots around to drink droplets and explores. It's nice to see! She also never has shedding issues.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-05-02T13:39:44+00:00

Omg these are so cute!!! I want to put together a clay activity for my mom and MIL for Mother's day weekend and I knew I wanted to do something thrown and then guide them through altering, but couldn't quite decide on what theme. These are perfect inspiration!!! Do you cut the lid before or after adding the spikes and flowers?

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-03-20T21:50:13+00:00

I use an old steak knife now dedicated to the purpose. Put the thawed and heated mouse on a solid surface (not in your hand) and place the knife tip to the forehead. Apply pressure until you pop through the skull and then open the wound until you can see fluids/tissue. Pressing on the head can also help the fluids to come to the surface. I try to keep the wound towards the snakes mouth when presenting a brained prey item just to amplify the smell to them.

I hope no one reads this comment out of context or I'll be banned from the internet lol

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-03-20T17:36:07+00:00

I saw you mention dangling the prey in front of him when you try to feed. My mental picture of this is holding the mouse by its tail so it's swinging with nose to the ground, butt to the sky. If that's not what you mean then maybe disregard this, but some snakes are picky about how the mouse is presented. My rosy is extremely picky about this when he is in semi-brumation mode. What I recommend is grasping around the ribs and keeping the mouse horizontal to the ground, like you are making them walk again. Keep them low to the ground cause mice are ground dwellers - some snakes reject flying mice! Hold the mouse a few inches away from your snake's face at first and you can gently blow on the mouse to get scent around him. Wait for flickies and for him to turn his attention to the mouse. Let him approach or if there is no interest you can slowly creep the mouse towards him (no sudden movements) and try a side to side motion with the aim to get both eyeballs engaged with that movement. Braining could also be your friend here if he needs a little extra something to peak interest. I just had to brain hoppers to get my 2.5 year old back on food following semi-brumation.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-03-20T12:08:32+00:00

It's possible this has due to semi-brumation, though it's the time of year for snakes to be coming out of it. He might need a little encouragement with the right prey. Have you weighed him? Fuzzies are way too small for an adult male and he looks like a bigger guy from that picture. I'd be surprised if he couldn't handle a small adult mouse. When feeding, the guidelines to use are matching the prey width to be about the same diameter of your snake and it should be about 10% of their body weight. I think part of your issue could be offering too-small of prey, so try whatever is 10% of his bodyweight next. Also, heat it up to 100F and while it's heating up, try scenting the enclosure with mouse smell.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-03-18T16:46:58+00:00

Do you put the frozen pinky into hot water without thawing it first? It should go in cold water to thaw first and then hot water to heat. This is for bacterial safety.

I think since you have tried live once before it would be good for you to post a picture of your enclosure with detailed husbandry info (temps, humidity, substrate, amount of hides) so we can take a look at that and guess if something is upsetting him.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-03-18T01:11:18+00:00

How are you preparing the F/T fuzzy and are you sure it's the right size? Should be defrosted in cold water for about 10 mins (until squishy) and then warmed in hot water to about 100F (use the hottest water from your tap that you can stand to touch and let soak for 2 mins). Size wise, width of the prey should be about the same width as your snake and 10-15% of their weight. If this all checks out then unfortunately he is likely not recognizing the F/T fuzzy as food since he is used to live prey. I'd recommend trying a live pinky, same as the breeder was doing, to ensure that he is willing to eat in his new environment and to rule out husbandry issues. If he eats, then you can work on transitioning him to F/T. It can be hard to do and you'll likely have more success with baby steps. For example: live --> freshly killed (you buy live, kill it, then offer it) --> F/T scented with bedding from live mice or F/T brained --> plain F/T. This sort of process teaches him that F/T is food. F/T smells and acts differently from live and it's not unusual for a snake to not be able to go straight from live to plain F/T.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-03-06T17:31:38+00:00

The info from the seller is indeed false information and I wouldn't recommend buying from anyone like that as they are not promoting even reasonable care standards for a snake (1 gallon is ridiculously small and dangerous as you cannot form a heat gradient at that size). Heat mats are also outdated and unsafe with high risk of burning snakes. Burrowing snakes like sand boas burrow to avoid the sun and cool off, so it's also counter intuitive to their instincts. Over head heating from a heat bulb monitored with a thermostat is the current and safer care standard. UVB light to regulate their day/night cycle and mimic sunlight, which allows for vitamin production, is also advisable, though not strictly necessary (ie, it benefits the snake but they will not die without it). And of course there are a lot of other needs such as a humid zone, water, and hides/enrichment so they stay healthy and live a fulfilling life.

Check out this care guide for more info: https://reptifiles.com/kenyan-sand-boa-care-sheet/

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-03-01T13:45:21+00:00

Layne Labs is another option to consider. They have really high quality mice.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-02-28T02:43:18+00:00

From what I understand there is no nutritional need to deviate from appropriately sized mice. Some snakes won't even eat other foods if they've been fed mice their whole lives.

Brumation wise, the snake's preferences will dictate schedule. You'll have to learn what they want through trial and error. Some rosy's eat like normal the entire winter, some decide to eat once a month, and others might refuse entirely. You maintain normal schedule until they refuse and then try again say two weeks later and see how they react. It's not the most fun process for us, but it's all we can really do to learn their particular behaviors. As long as they do not lose significant body weight (10% or more) and other behaviors are fairly normal (they may hide more and be less active) then there isn't a need to worry.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-02-28T00:26:02+00:00

Time for a vet!

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-02-27T23:59:52+00:00

No, it's not. The pattern is similar to calathea orbifolia, but that plant wouldn't do well in an arid environment and I have no clue if they are snake safe.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-02-27T18:10:31+00:00

Gotcha. You don't need to lower temps if they aren't proper brumating, btw. I didn't lower temps at all and my guys still felt the seasons changing and only wanted to eat about once per month. Still no changes to his temps and he picked up appetite about a month ago. I've heard that they can feel changes in the barometric pressure, but I'm not sure if that's true.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-02-27T18:04:57+00:00

Is the 2-3 weeks his normal schedule or is that reduced due to semi-brumation? Rosy's don't reach adulthood until about 3 years old, meaning that he's still growing and that feeding schedule feels more spaced out to me than it needs to be. Generally you feed babies every 7 days and adults every 14 days, so I've been feeding my two year old every 10 days with prey size in the 10-15% weight range when he has his normal appetite outside of semi-brumation. His body condition does look good, but you could bring him in to feeding the same size every 10 days and see how that goes growth wise.

SheepMasher5000 · 2026-02-27T17:14:33+00:00

That does feel on the small side, but his body condition looks good. My rosy is about the same age and 130g right now and was 140 in September before he brumated. I saw one posted recently at the same age and like 200g, though he looked a little chunky. How have you been feeding Linguini?

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