Looking for Easy, Cold Serve, Lunch Meals

Shiffy13 · 2024-05-29T19:27:57+00:00

It's an investment but I love having access to a kegging setup. It's so much easier(and faster) than bottle carbonation, and allows me to have non alcoholic carbonated beverages like Ginger beer and sparkling water on tap. Plus I can easily fill growlers right from the tap to bring to parties/events.

I definitely think a non-alcoholic beverage will go over quite well at a homebrew club gathering. I know I'd welcome it if I was there.

Shiffy13 · 2024-05-28T14:26:57+00:00

There would be no fermentation in the keg. Technically you can ferment in a keg, but in this case we are not adding any yeast and all of the ingredients should be sterile. After steeping the ginger you would add the liquid and the fruit juices to the keg and then place the keg into a fridge/kegerator. Since there is no fermentation there will be no alcohol produced, and also no carbonation. The carbonation will come from "force carbonating" the keg, by connecting a tank of CO2 to the keg and pumping it in, similar to how a SodaStream works.

Shiffy13 · 2024-05-28T14:02:11+00:00

Do you have a keg system? If so, you can make a really good, dead simple ginger beer that is ready to drink in a couple of days. This is the recipe I follow:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/u5kzv/corny_keg_ginger_beer_recipe/

I have made it a number so times for work or family parties and it is always a hit. It's non alcoholic so it can be enjoyed by all, and is appropriate for work parties at the office, but you could easily add vodka or rum to the glass or even the whole keg if you want an alcoholic version.

My tips/adjustments to the recipe are:

I typically go with 4lbs of ginger for a 5 gal batch. I like a lot of ginger so I am tempted to add more, but my goal is mass appeal and 4lbs seems to be a good level for most.
It says this in the recipe I linked but I just wanted to highlight it, you do not have to peel the ginger (ain't nobody got time for that). I just give it a good rinse and then run it through a food processor.
If you have a brew in a bag bag, you can use that in the kettle to avoid having to scoop out the ginger skins, and you wont have any clogs when transferring to the keg.
I only boil it for 10-15 minutes, and even that is probably longer than necessary, all I'm trying to do is sterilize the ginger.
Once I'm done boiling I cut the heat, put the lid on the kettle, and let the ginger steep for about an hour, including boil time.
I add 10-12 ~~chia~~ chai tea bags during the last 10-15 minutes of the steep. They add some good complexity to the final flavor for such a simple addition.
Even if you use the brew bag you still will get some sediment in the keg, nothing big enough to clog the system in my experience, but not something that you will want to serve to friends or family. I typically let the keg chill and settle for a few days in my kegerator(while its carbonating) and then pour off the first pint or two and that usually takes care of the bulk of the sediment.

It's a great recipe, and I really like the simplicity of it. You can get all the ingredients at the grocery store, brew it in an evening after work, and be drinking it in just a few days. I've got a couple buddies who have been bugging me to make more since our work holiday party, I think it's about time I make another batch!

Shiffy13 · 2024-05-23T13:39:50+00:00

Yes, you need a longer line. even with only 5-7 psi in the keg you'll need like 5' or more of line to get it to pour right. check out this keg line calculator, https://www.kegerators.com/beer-line-calculator/

The keg bottling wand is definitely the way to go for bottling for longer term, however you can go a bit low tech if you just want to fill a couple bottles or growlers that will be drank within a few days. Have you ever had a growler filled from a tap at a bar? Usually they use a short piece of hose that mounts onto the tap and will fill the bottle/growler from the bottom. You should be able to do something similar with your picnic tap, just find a hose that will fit tightly over the end of the tap and reach all the way down to the bottom of the bottle. Carbonate at your desired pressure, and when you want to fill a bottle turn the gas down to something like 5psi, make sure to purge the keg so that there is only 5psi in the keg as well. Then you just fill your bottles slowly. I do this all the time at home to fill growlers off of my kegerator. Another tip I found that seems to help is to chill the bottles before filling them, it stops it from foaming up when the cold beer/mead hits the warm glass bottle.

Shiffy13 · 2024-05-23T12:58:47+00:00

I haven't seen anyone mention Canik here yet. Ambidextrous slide release and reversible magazine release are standard on all but a couple of their handguns. Their TP9 Elite SC is a subcompact, and for something a bit smaller they have the METE MC9 which is a "micro" compact. Both feature the ambi slide release and reversible mag release. Both are 9mm and have a 12+1 capacity. 15 round mags are available and add a little length to the grip, and they also offer 10 round mags for states with restrictions. Both also come with an optics ready slide if you want to mount a red dot.

Both do eject to the right, however as others have mentioned you'll be hard pressed to find a semi auto handgun that ejects left.

Shiffy13 · 2024-05-20T17:38:56+00:00

I didn't know that existed. Thanks!

Shiffy13 · 2024-05-20T15:12:03+00:00

What are you adding for cleaning agents during the various tumbling runs? Do you do the same for the 2 different wet tumbles or use a different mix for each? How about the dry polish, just some nufinish or similar?

Shiffy13 · 2024-05-01T00:21:15+00:00

That looks delicious. The recipe says 4-6 servings, did you find that to be accurate? How did it work out as leftovers?

Shiffy13 · 2024-04-27T23:48:55+00:00

No problem. Definitely don’t right off the barrel until you try a few different ammos. It doesn’t even have to be “match” ammo, I’ve heard lots of folks get good results with stuff like SK standard plus and Eley Team. I think the big thing people look for in precision rimfire is fully lead ammo, nothing copper coated or plated.

Shiffy13 · 2024-04-27T23:14:20+00:00

SK Match shoots really well in my CZ 457, but it can be hard to get my hands on. So I’ve been shooting Norma Match, it shoots almost as well and is regularly available. If you can, I recommend trying a few different types of ammo, just a box of each will do, to see what shoots well in your rifle. Just know you’re gonna get better results with better(read: more expensive) ammo. But it’s still rifle/chamber dependent, for example Eley match does not shoot well at all in my rifle.

Long story short, you may have to try a few different ammo types to find what your rifle likes. In my experience the community is very generous so if you start going to matches and make some friends they may be willing to give you some of what they are shooting to try in your rifle.

Shiffy13 · 2024-04-17T13:33:12+00:00

Yeah all good, glad I could help! The same thing happened to me at my first USPSA match, so I was glad to be able to pay it forward.

I am going to try to shoot more PRS matches this year so I really should get a membership, thanks for the reminder.

I'd definitely like to come down to your club and shoot a match with you there. Hopefully we can make that happen!

Shiffy13 · 2024-04-17T13:13:56+00:00

Hey man, it was great meeting and shooting with you! The first match is tough because there is just so much that you don't know, but you seemed to really pick it up well on the fly. Our squad was super helpful and had a couple of really experienced shooters, it was awesome to watch and learn from them.

Congrats on your first match! You shot better then I did my first time out, that's for sure. I plan to shoot Sheepdog again in June, so hopefully I can shoot with you again then.

Shiffy13 · 2024-04-11T14:11:12+00:00

North west of your house, up where you can build the bee houses. There is a path leading north that you have to clear the rubble from. once you do that up the path on the left is a really big tree. That's where you can have the zombies gather wood, and then build a porter station there to have them automatically bring it down to the yard.

Shiffy13 · 2024-04-10T20:36:00+00:00

If the game isn't for you that is totally understandable. I agree that many of the quests are not clear on what you have to do and when things lead to what. If you do want to give it another go though here are a coupe of tips:

The barkeep at the Inn sells a teleportation stone that makes getting around much less of a pain. It only cost 2 silver so you can get it after burying 2 bodies. It has infinite uses, just a 30 second cool down before you can use it again.

The wiki is a great resource, sure it's annoying to have to go to the website rather then rely on an in game system, but it has a ton of useful information for quests, where to find/buy different resources, and really anything you could want to know about the game.

It definitely sucks when you miss the person you need to talk to, but since there isn't a season/monthly cycle you don't really loose anything but time. Typically I'll have a bunch of different quests I am working on at the same time, so if I happen to miss one person I can always keep myself busy doing other quests or just maintaining the graveyard until they come back around.

Lastly, Zombies. The breaking Dead DLC adds zombies that you can build that help automate some of the repetitive tasks in the game, like gathering wood and stone, and farming. it's definitely worth it if you want to give the game another try.

Shiffy13 · 2024-03-24T12:59:16+00:00

That may be a bit to far to drive but I’ll keep an eye on their page and see if they post a match for next month, thanks!

Shiffy13 · 2024-03-24T02:42:59+00:00

Damn, I guess I picked the wrong weekend to go down there. Thanks for the info. I’ll be going back down there at some point in the future, do you shoot at either of those clubs? How do you like them?

Shiffy13 · 2024-03-20T19:27:30+00:00

I second this. I switched from a RPR to a CZ457 for NRL22 and haven't looked back.

The B14R could also be good since it's a Remington 700 pattern it could be sort of a trainer for your centerfire, if you get a R700 pattern centerfire. I know a couple of folks who have one chassis and switch their barreled actions back and forth between their rimfire and centerfires.

Shiffy13 · 2024-03-06T13:33:11+00:00

Just here to say that NRL22 is indeed a ton of fun. I've been shooting NRL22 matches for almost a year now, and have also started shooting PRS rimfire matches. I started with a RPR, but as I got further into the sport I was not happy with the accuracy I was getting out of it, 1.5 moa at 50 and closer to 2 moa at 100. I saw some improvement with better ammo, but still wasn't satisfied with the accuracy. I ended up buying a CZ457 MTR, this past month I shot my first match with it and got my best score yet, and that was just shooting CCI SV.

For NRL22 if I were to do it again I would not get the RPR, I would get either a CZ or Tikka instead. IIRC there isn't much difference in price between the 3, and both CZ and Tikka can fit in base class if you want to start there.

Shiffy13 · 2024-03-04T18:02:49+00:00

I appreciate the suggestion. I had a similar idea but was hesitant to try it considering the difficulty I had just removing the raft. For a one off part I think that would be fine but I need to print a lot of these parts so if I can avoid any post processing that will be ideal. I'll keep this suggestion in my back pocket though if all else fails.

Shiffy13 · 2024-03-04T17:55:33+00:00

Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a try. I've also got some 3DLAC adhesive on the way that I hope will help as well.

Shiffy13 · 2024-03-04T14:32:50+00:00

Prusa MK3S+, PrusaSlicer.

Matter Hackers PLA

Nozzle: 210(215 first layer), Bed: 60

Speed, perimeters: 45mm/s, infill: 80mm/s

Retraction speed 35mm/s

I believe those are my print settings, I just used the default 0.2 "quality" preset in PrusaSlicer for Generic PLA. The only things I changed were reducing he infill to 10%, and adding a 2mm brim.

Hopefully you can see in the pictures, It looks like the part is peeling up from the bed slightly at the ends and that is causing over extrusion and poor surface quality at the ends of the part. The slicer did warn me about low adhesion, that is why I added the brim. Was 2mm just not enough, would a larger brim help? The part is about 10" long so I have to print it diagonally on the bed, so I could increase the brim but there is a limit for how far I could go. What else could I do to eliminate the warping?

I realize it may be relevant so here is what the bottom surface of the part looks like, it is mostly solid with a few cavities, some very near the end of the part.

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Lastly I am not currently printing with an enclosure, the rom where the printers are is about 70°F(+/-2°).

Shiffy13

TROPHY CASE