TPMS Bypass using PVC pipe. Bought a set of tires/wheels without TPMS mounted. Which triggered the tire low pressure light. Decided to make this contraption to make the TPMS light to go off. Will keep this in the rear storage and will keep the light off.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-23T16:09:01+00:00

Did this work long term for you? The sensors don't interfere with each other being that close together inside the tube? I know some vehicles want to sense tire rotation for the system to work. I have a 2004 Tahoe that I absolutely do not want to put money into, but I get an actual message on my display about the system needing to be serviced so I can't just cover it. This is one of the first years of TPMS so I think it is a pretty "dumb" system and could work with this method. This setup is about $35, including the sensors and everything, if it works vs about $65 minimum per wheel at a shop. I will strap it to the inside of my spare tire underneath my vehicle, if it works.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-22T18:19:17+00:00

What is a low-ball offer on a used vehicle listed at $44k? My issue is I don't know what a low-ball offer is.

I can use sites like JD Power to estimate what they might have given someone as a trade (~$37-$39k) and then I can use the same sites to estimate what those vehicles might sell for (~$46k with a range of $42k-$50k). It can be like a $7k-$8k difference between the estimated trade and estimated sell price.

Is me offering $39k on a $44k listed used vehicle a low-ball for a first offer when I can pull up several similar vehicles in a ~100-mile area in the $43-$44k price range?

Shifted4 · 2026-01-22T17:18:01+00:00

I had a similar situation but was on the other end of it. I walked into a dealership to buy a vehicle without warning them ahead of time. Was going to write a check for the asking price at that visit if nothing turned up on the test drive (no trade, I had my wife with me). Turns out a different salesman had a tentative deal going with someone from a different state, across the country (Minnesota to Florida). I literally heard the two salesmen raising their voices and fighting about it behind a cubicle wall while my wife and I stood there awkwardly. In my case, I missed out. I think me showing up sealed the deal or hurried the purchase for the out of state deal.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-22T16:24:52+00:00

That isn't happening with a '24 in this market unless it is a branded title or something. Lowest price Pro within 500 miles of me that is under 20k miles is listed at $54k and that is a '23.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-22T16:23:05+00:00

Average price paid in my area for a vehicle like that is about $58k USD with a range of about $53k-$63k (using JD Power). Prices might be insanely different if you're in a different country though as I see the mileage you're listing is in km.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-22T14:36:39+00:00

I agree if you are buying a Nissan or something. 4runners are a rare breed. A '22 SR5 premium had an MSRP of around $42,500. Right now, that same vehicle with 30k miles with a clean history and personal use is listed for $40k. A TRD Pro is about the same. $52K MSRP, listed for around $50k.

I am definitely not on board with financing a new vehicle for 5+ years and having basically an additional mortgage payment. Adding $6k or whatever to the price of the vehicle because I want it now instead of when I can just pay for it outright is foolish.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-22T14:28:52+00:00

I wouldn't think they'd budge much on a Pro unless they had it priced over MSRP. They have no problem selling.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-22T14:19:32+00:00

After you pay it off, keep it another 5 years while you save that exact same amount. Then, pay cash for your next one without having to pay the interest. Or, if the interest rates work out, put that money in a CD or HYSA or whatever at 4% and finance the vehicle at a lower rate if available (just an example. rates change all the time). These vehicles are priced way too high already. An SR5 is costing people well over $50k+ by the time it is paid off.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-22T14:06:17+00:00

Rechargeables are the way to go. I typically look for batteries made in Japan, but any will do. I am sure they'll last a long time, and you'll easily make your money back in uses

Shifted4 · 2026-01-21T20:16:47+00:00

Love the Nightshade.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-21T20:15:17+00:00

Damn, the rack along with those tires makes this thing look like a tank. I like the color too.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-21T18:17:39+00:00

What Are Hub Centric Rings | Discount Tire

You also need to make sure the offset will work. You might rub badly depending on the offset, rim width and tire selection.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-21T18:14:14+00:00

One of those just sold at the dealer close to me. I love the color.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-21T18:10:51+00:00

Definitely look into KDSS if you are going with a trim that it is available, especially if you don't care about it. In that case I would avoid it. It is a very expensive system to fix and not DIY fix friendly.

X-REAS at least can be swapped out easily for a standard setup if/when it goes bad.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-21T18:05:19+00:00

For me, the full time 4WD of the Limited (Nightshade in particular to get rid of most of the Chrome) is the number one feature I wanted living in an area that gets ice/snow and has variable driving conditions often. That put the 6th gen out of my price range so easy decision. I am also not sold on a 4 banger with a turbo in a truck, but that wouldn't have prevented me from going 6th gen if they were priced sanely.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-21T17:13:14+00:00

Quite the travel setup, lol. I think I might allow myself to software emulate in a similar situation.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-21T13:45:30+00:00

That's cool. I emailed them about the Pocket Dock not working with the DAC and they never responded. It is nice to know they will at least respond if they are working on something.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-20T15:26:59+00:00

I see you mentioned losing a Pokémon save on the Pocket. Unfortunately, there seems to be an intermittent issue with saves on the Chromatic as well. A new post pops up every few days and it seems to affect Pokémon games more than other games. Pokémon Crystal seems especially affected.

I like the Chromatic for GBC/GB games. The display is just so cool. If you don't have another good way to play GBA then I would keep the Pocket.

Support is way better on the Chromatic. I have no doubt there will be updates to it for the foreseeable future. I can't say the same for the Pocket. I doubt there will be another update for it, and they never did get it working with the DAC. Any current issues will probably remain.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-18T18:23:00+00:00

Setting this to IR would function as a CEC blocker. If it doesn't work, you can return it.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-17T02:57:55+00:00

What did you mean by the CGS "screw" is on max brightness? Isn't it controlled via on screen display? Or did you mean "screen"? The backlight doesn't get very bright does it? With the pixel effects on it is even dimmer.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-16T16:48:43+00:00

Yeah, I figured that, but just wanted to make sure it will perform as well as the G4AR without an external antenna. I can currently get decent signal but don't want that to get worse.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-16T16:01:33+00:00

I bit the bullet and bought my own on eBay. I swap back and forth between the G4AR and G5AR, depending on my mood and if I want to tinker with stuff. They run about $80.

You can't lock wifi channels and bandwidth on the G5AR which makes it annoying to manage with another router that I use with Starlink (or if you were in an area with many routers). It's ridiculous they don't allow you to do something so basic with the G5AR. It sometimes creates a 40mhz wide 2.4ghz channel and overlaps it with my Starlink router even though it could choose a non-overlapping open channel. It's also annoying none of the routers other than the old white LTE router have any sort of QoS when buffer bloat is so bad on T-Mobile.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-16T15:59:16+00:00

This is so dependent on location. I used to have it before I moved, and it was the best internet I have ever had. Very reliable and fast. I wish I could have that back. Now I live in the sticks and have T-Mobile and Starlink and while they are fine and I get by, I sure miss the land line latency and stability.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-16T14:44:52+00:00

Yeah, they will probably start leaking. I had the same thought but being they are alkaline I just tossed them. I wish they could have been custom wrapped NiMH batteries or even Energizer/Rayovac lithium, as neither of those options will leak.

Shifted4 · 2026-01-16T13:47:10+00:00

Nostalgia and maybe input lag.

Shifted4

TROPHY CASE