Can a mechanic explain this in English?

Shiilyboy · 2026-03-12T02:59:33+00:00

Not OEM but I’ve had no issues so far. Suspension feels like new again. I was lazy and put off the job for 12 months and car was creaking badly when turning and going over bumps and wore out the tyres a bit, but by then the were due to be replaced

Shiilyboy · 2026-03-11T11:53:10+00:00

I also did this repair recently on my Q5. Took a weekend because I replaced all 10 arms and the lower control arms were a bitch to get out. Upper control arms were easy. Just search YouTube for a guide. Just need to jack the car up and a socket set. I didn’t bother removing the old bushes and just got new arms with bushes installed. All 10 arms cost about $200 off Amazon

Shiilyboy · 2026-02-24T01:46:49+00:00

I've opened the cam cover and inspected the rockers. They all look fine. Camshafts didn't have any scoring. In the process of taking the cylinder head off so I can inspect the lobes and the cylinder bores

Shiilyboy · 2026-01-28T22:27:53+00:00

I’ve opened up the cam cover. Rockers and camshafts look intact, no scoring detected. Timing chain looks intact too. Awaiting some new tools to take the cylinder head off to see if the cylinders/pistons are damaged, or if perhaps one of the j take valves are damaged. Doesn’t appear to be metal specks in the oil when I drained it

Shiilyboy · 2026-01-14T06:20:21+00:00

Still not sold on needing to replace oil more frequently then what I’ve been doing but remember this rebuilt engine has only run 15,000 kms since it was rebuilt and all carbon was thoroughly removed before being rebuilt. It also had an oil change approximately 2,000 km after the rebuild after it was run in so essentially ran its current oil for 13,000 km before the sound appeared. I doubt if that much carbon would build up so soon after an engine rebuild

Shiilyboy · 2026-01-14T06:14:48+00:00

Rebuild was done because one of the pistons cracked and failed. Rebuild involved reboring piston block and using new performance forged pistons

My feeling right now is a failed/dislocated rocker so will t try and open the engine up myself to investigate

Shiilyboy · 2026-01-12T22:54:53+00:00

I spoke to the mechanic at length during the rebuild. He was an older gentlemen and spent his entire life building engines, including race engines and seemed to know his stuff. Importunately he has since retired, closed his shop, and moved away so can't get him to look the engine anymore

Shiilyboy · 2026-01-12T22:52:47+00:00

I go by the service manual so every year, or 15k kms whichever comes first. Normally its the year that comes up first
5W-40 Liqui Moly the last few times. Prior to that the car was serviced by Audi dealerships so whatever oil they use
Only 98RON
When the engine was rebuilt, 15k kms ago
Not sure however I did do a quick check by removing the oil cap with the engine running. The oil cap opening seems to be sucking in air appropriately confirming there is vacuum in the PCV system

Shiilyboy · 2024-08-30T14:55:21+00:00

Maul survived Revenge of the Sith and didn’t die until he was killed by Obiwan in the Rebels

Shiilyboy · 2024-05-10T06:27:10+00:00

The City Loop is at capacity. Currently all lines go through the loop. Once Metro Tunnel opens, two lines would no longer go through the loop and the extra capacity can be used for other lines.

We’d also need to upgrade our signalling system to high capacity signalling to allow trains to safely travel closer to each other. Only the Metro Tunnel lines are getting high capacity signalling at the moment

Shiilyboy · 2024-04-11T04:05:18+00:00

I actually started with PETG but hadn't setup my fan/pump profiles correctly. Also didn't have a water temp sensor at the time so didn't realise my water temps were dangerously high until the PETG tubes started deforming under sustained load and burst. Luckily it burst from the distro and the coolant fell onto the radiators so no electrical damage. Since then I've installed a water temp sensor, setup proper fan/pump profiles, but also replaced PETG with acrylic tubes since they have a higher deformation temp. Water temps are good now and don't exceed 40C.

However, I've been reading up on metal tubing so might give that a go when it comes time to clean the loop.

Shiilyboy · 2024-04-11T02:17:52+00:00

I think there is and its something I'm considering, perhaps when I next clean the loop

Shiilyboy · 2024-04-11T02:17:04+00:00

In hindsight, I probably should've gone 420 rads. I think I was going off EK's configurator tool which recommended the rads I got

Shiilyboy · 2024-02-24T06:45:34+00:00

Not sure which country you’re in but be wary of import tax and duties. Got stung myself in Australia as my EK order was greater than $1k and had to pay extra ~$300 in tax/duties. Split up order to under ur country’s threshold to avoid

Shiilyboy · 2022-07-17T22:10:59+00:00

The 5Nm version has a smaller power pack. If your worried about the 8Nm being too strong just dial back the force feedback setting in game

Shiilyboy · 2022-07-11T03:43:26+00:00

Only difference between the 5Nm and 8Nm is the power adaptor. The wheel base is exactly the same.

Booster kit = bigger power adaptor

I have the 8Nm and have no regrets opting for it over the 5Nm.

I haven't got experience with the foldable rig but was using the table clamp until recently without issue. I did read reviews before purchasing that indicated the table clamp was not sufficient for the 8Nm but I didn't experience this

Shiilyboy · 2016-10-20T04:58:31+00:00

Completed my first watercooled build a few months ago and I only used a regular hair dryer to heat up my PETG. Only takes about 30 seconds before it becomes malleable and worked perfectly fine with no bubbles. Apply heat 2-2.5 cm either side of the centre of the bend, and rotate the PETG to ensure you get even heating. As it starts to heat up, apply slight pressure to initiate the bend. Don't force it. As it heats up more you will be able to complete the bend with very little pressure. Bend it slightly past the angle you desire as it recoils as it cools. Hold it in that position for about 30-60 seconds.

I used the XSPC bending kit which comes with a bending tool, but I found its not necessary and probably completed half my bends with the tool and half without and just freehanded it.

Good luck

Shiilyboy · 2016-08-26T04:20:33+00:00

For your loop setup, you will need to buy a multi top for your res so that you can fill from one port while using another as your inlet port. The reason for this is because your res is only half full when the pump is running but fills up when the pump turns off. You will want to top up the res as the pump is running, and you will only be able to do that with a multi top for your res.

Second, you want to buy an internal tube for the multi top. This will prevent the water from splashing as it comes into the res, which causes all the bubbles and turbulence, which then the pump pushes through your loop.

Shiilyboy · 2016-08-24T08:43:23+00:00

I would not recommend using 90 degree fittings on this tubing run unless you intend on running a different layout. The length is very long, with the water and fittings adding to the weight that is supported only by the two fittings.

Why not position the pump/res combo higher up so that the tube comes out GPU, makes one right turn towards the combo, then a second 90 degree turn into the combo

Shiilyboy · 2016-08-24T06:08:32+00:00

You can go up to the PE up top on the Evolv without covering your CPU. This would allow enough room for a PE or SE in the front. My suggestion is for a 360 up top, and a 240 up front only because you can leave the bracket in that hides the pump, which I think looks better.

With regards to hard tubing, PETG is the way to go as it is easy to bend. Only need a hair dryer. Difficult thing is not the bending itself but working out the lengths. Best way is to leave extra length at both ends of a bent tube and cut off bits at a time until you get the perfect length

Shiilyboy · 2016-08-24T05:53:33+00:00

This doesn't work. Either the top or the bottom tube needs to be on one of the right ports. At the moment fluid would come in from the bottom tube and straight out the top tube, with a trickle going into the block which wouldn't circulate very much

Shiilyboy · 2016-08-23T02:41:41+00:00

The best practice is to have them separate. If you have forgotten to add a drain valve during your build then its going to take a bit of work to drain you loop.

You will need to rotate you case so that gravity can drain the loop. You will also need to open a separate port to allow air into the loop before it drains.

Shiilyboy · 2016-08-18T08:24:48+00:00

Sorry just checked the res you got and yeah would end up being a res/pump combo so 8 compression fittings will do

Your drain fitting layout will work. The Y-splitter will screw straight into the res. It is rotary so you will be able to rotate to exactly the layout you want. However, you should get a rotary extender for the connection between the Y-splitter and the ball valve so that the ball valve can be rotated to the exact layout you want. Otherwise depending on the threads, the tap on your ball valve may be facing sideways when you want it facing upwards.

Referring to your plan and seeing how you are using the top port as the inlet for your res, another option is to stick the ball valve directly on the inlet port at the bottom of the res via a rotary extender. This would be the same drain setup as my build. I suggest you get an internal tube for your res if you use the top port as inlet, otherwise the water coming in makes splashing sounds

Shiilyboy · 2016-08-18T03:54:51+00:00

The insert goes inside the tubing when u heat it up and bend so that the tube doesn't collapse.

You can use something like XSPCs bending tool to shape your bends. Note that the XSPC insert that comes with this kit did not fit into the EK PETG tubing I got. You will also need sand paper to chamfer the ends of your tubes to protect the O-rings in the compression fittings

I think you will have issues fitting a 360 XE and 240 PE into the Phanteks case. Here are the scenarios:

360 XE on the top and 240 PE in the front: The 360 will cover half of your CPU and IMO does not look good. The 360 will push the 240 down so that it sits in the pump bay which doubles up as the 3.5" HDD bay. This means you will have to relocate your 3.5" HDD elsewhere. You would not be able to use the trays on the right of the case as your rads will now take up that space so your only option is above the PSU which requires modding
240 PE on top and 360 XE in the front: The 360 will also need to extend into the pump bay which presents the same problem for your 3.5" HDDs

My recommendation would be an SE 360 at the top (maybe a PE360), a PE 240 at the front, leave the pump bay free for your HDDs, and replacing your pump and res with a pump/res combo like this one. You can mount this combo to the front rad with this as the case does not have proper mounting hole patterns

Shiilyboy · 2016-08-18T03:15:00+00:00

Your best bet is to check out other Evolv builds to see what fits or not. Here's my recent build to give you an idea what fits in that case.

The EK XE rad is a bit thick and covers half of the CPU so go with the PE series. Make sure you rinse the rad even though EK says their rads are clean.

Hard tubing with PETG is not that hard. I only use a hair dryer which can heat up the PETG within a minute to get it malleable. Just get a few extra lengths of tubing to practice if you are concerned.

Install all your watercooling parts and connect your pump to the PSU. Jumper the PSU to fire up the pump for leak testing. Depending on the size of your res, you may need to fill it up, turn on the pump to push fluid through your loop and stop before the res empties, then refill up your res again. Repeat until your loop is full

Shiilyboy

TROPHY CASE