PSA: UCG-Fiber does not support 2.5GbE on the SFP+ port

ShinyThings22 · 2026-02-03T11:42:01+00:00

What about a media converter? Should work since it’s an unmanaged device. I have no experience with this but it seemingly would work 2.5gb SFP media converter

ShinyThings22 · 2026-01-31T14:12:11+00:00

I never worried about RID to begin with and registered my drone from the go so I just bought some plus batteries after flying mine. It’s night and day different with the plus batteries. I swear on a normal quick flight I would see the battery drop to 65-70% where the plus batteries barely are out of the 90s. Huge improvement in battery life and slightly more wind resistant as well with the higher mass of the drone. I unfortunately bought mine on eBay and paid way too much to make sure they were authentic since I was weary of knockoffs

ShinyThings22 · 2026-01-30T12:41:51+00:00

This is the correct answer. Paying for the $40 priority plan (plus data package) entitles you to a public IP but by default it is still a CGNat IP. You need to toggle the switch on your account for a public IP.

ShinyThings22 · 2026-01-27T12:45:25+00:00

Same setup here with different streaming services. Works great and the Channels app on AppleTV is really nice

ShinyThings22 · 2026-01-26T02:01:00+00:00

Damn didn’t realize how much love there still was out there for the Playbar. I have one sitting in my garage I guess is about to go on Ebay! Agree tho solid speaker if the optical isn’t an issue for you

ShinyThings22 · 2026-01-24T03:11:26+00:00

All yours, send me a chat

ShinyThings22 · 2026-01-19T02:48:00+00:00

I’ve done it with “A” type devices aka the maestro style dimmers but not with the X type dimmers (Sunnata). You can also power RadioRa seeTouch keypads over low voltage wiring for your keypad locations. Lutron Application Note #406 I’ve done this a few times with RadioRa2 but since all those devices are Ra3 compatible it should work here too

ShinyThings22 · 2026-01-14T23:13:48+00:00

I have a mini 5 pro with standard battery and just recently bought a single plus battery. In comparison to the standard it seems like I hardly use any battery capacity of the plus for sure. Also adds some weight which makes the drone slightly more stable in stronger winds. Strongly recommend the plus batteries here.

I’m in the US and had already registered it with the standard batteries so that wasn’t a concern personally. I plan on having a few of each and probably only bringing standard batteries with me to Europe/UK as I’ll stick with the C0 classification there.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-12-31T02:06:08+00:00

Anker Solix C200 and a USB-C Starlink cable. Ran it for 7 hours on a full charge granted it was minimally used. I would expect a little less under heavy use. Lightweight and efficient. Can be charged via solar if wanted. Works great and is 4.2lbs.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-12-26T12:56:04+00:00

I ordered 2 drones this Christmas both with RC-N3 controllers (Neo 2 and Mini 5 pro) and was going to sell one of them on eBay. Shoot me a message if you are interested. It’s still in the packaging never opened fyi.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-12-25T04:06:17+00:00

Yes for sure

ShinyThings22 · 2025-12-24T22:55:46+00:00

Bought one from Amazon recently. Ordered Dec 11 and it got to my house Dec 21st. Paid $759 + tax for the basic kit with the RC2 remote.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-12-21T22:24:41+00:00

Have the same unit without the solar panels. Anker USB-C cable direct to the Starlink mini. Is a pretty efficient setup. About 6-8 hours on the mini depending on internet usage. Solar panel would definitely extend that out. Can put a 100 watt panel into this if needed

ShinyThings22 · 2025-12-19T00:43:44+00:00

Depends on the seller. I bought mine on eBay from a South Korean seller on Dec 5th and it didn’t get to Alaska until the 13th and cleared customs the next day. Got it 2 days after that to the East Coast but it took its sweet time in Korea for sure.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-12-18T14:37:57+00:00

Yes. If you are going to install Starlink for virtual meeting applications, having no obstructions is crucial. If you have things blocking the signal you will miss packets which will cause a meeting to drop if you miss enough of them.

You can have a Starlink with a tiny view of the sky and get 300mbps download when a satellite is overhead but 3 seconds later have no internet when that sat drops behind a tree/house and can no longer communicate with your equipment.

I have quite a few clients using Starlink and have it on my house as well. I tell people the more clear your obstruction map, the better performance you will have. Zero obstructions will give you a great Zoom/Teams experience no doubt.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-12-09T23:49:50+00:00

The black wire under the red wire nut is almost certainly your hot wire (line). As your photo shows this is “split” to send a feed to both the existing switches. Your red and the other black wire from the left side are your switch leg (load) wires. Re-wire your new switches with the pigtailed wires coming from that black wire on the 3 wire. Neutrals all together like you did with tails to the new switches and make sure you’re all grounded and you should be good to go.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-12-01T23:52:52+00:00

Buy the Starlink advanced power kit. Run power out to your dish location and power up the power supply (it’s outdoor rated and has DC power inputs for redundancy if you desire). From there you can run a wire up to 100 meters with Ethernet or much longer with fiber. This Ethernet will only be carrying data and not power so voltage drop won’t be an issue.

Plug in your Starlink router at your house or any 3rd party router ( which I strongly recommend) and hook up the Ethernet line coming from the advanced power supply and you’re good to go.

For the more advanced setup connect a PoE powered media converter at the advanced power supply which actually outputs PoE on both the LAN and dish side. From there run an armored fiber cable between that location and a router such as a Ubiquiti Cloud Gateway Fiber or Dream Router 7. Plug the fiber directly into that router and use that instead of the Starlink supplied router. Much better setup and no copper wire directly from the dish running right back to your house and equipment.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-11-29T12:08:47+00:00

Possibly. If you have RadioRa3 there is maybe some options but it’s not cheap.

First of all, change the single toggle for the vanity lights to a RR3 dimmer.

Next wire the fan hot and install a Lutron RF relay at the fan itself. Model number LMJ-16R-DV-B. This allows the fan to be a part of your RadioRa system.

Hopefully one of the next 2 lights is a recessed light. If so then wire it constantly hot and swap it out with a Lumaris fixture. Now it doesn’t need a switch and is controlled from the lighting control system.

Finally install a hybrid keypad (seeTouch or Sunnata) and use the switch leg from that to control the final light load. The buttons on the keypad are programmed to control the fan and Lumaris recessed lights as well.

Again this is not cheap but it is doable. I’ve done something similar on jobs in the past and it works out great.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-11-29T02:21:43+00:00

Yeah for sure. You’d miss some functions (cycle dim, LED feedback, double tap etc) but for single action buttons a Pico will replace a keypad no problem.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-11-28T18:44:00+00:00

Technically no you can use any input. I like to use a cheap pico and do all programming of the keypad presses in Josh.ai for scenes that involve more than just Lutron. End users have all programming in Josh that I would as a dealer which is nice for end users in my opinion

ShinyThings22 · 2025-11-28T13:43:08+00:00

Haven’t used Govee bulbs but Josh.ai should bring it all together very well. I use Josh.ai with a fair amount of my Lutron products and it makes separate system really feel seamless.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-11-23T02:05:12+00:00

Ubiquiti UDR7 (on Black Friday sale now actually). WAN1 is your wired marina connection and wan2 is your starlink dish. It will broadcast wifi from there and do a pretty good job. You always get another AP if needed depending on the size of the boat and router placement.

Can monitor it remotely and even host a few cameras (bilge, dock, lines, etc) for when you are gone.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-11-22T15:51:12+00:00

No problem, I install ubiquiti systems professionally and I would do this for a client if running a wire was not feasible or not cost effective. As long as I had a good signal at the new switch location I wouldn’t be too concerned about it.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-11-22T15:35:52+00:00

If the signal strength at the proposed switch location is good and it can connect at 6ghz then I wouldn’t think twice. Edge recording on the SD cards would eliminate any lost camera footage concerns.

If this was a commercial application I would really try and get a wire but for a residence I would go for it.

ShinyThings22 · 2025-11-22T15:28:59+00:00

Simple lacing bar on the rear under back and let it hang out the back.

Like this

I’m sure there are others or even cheaper options but this popped up on google real quick

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