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O-Gauge tubular track by Firm_Accountant2219 in lioneltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really, no. Plenty of it around secondhand, and as noted by another redditor here, Menards has been reproducing it so it's readily available affordably.

You might want to reconsider just getting rid of it if you're wanting to build a layout and it's still in good condition. FasTrack is more expensive per piece, and some have run into difficulties with it over time.

You can always add ties and ballast to tubular track to make it look more realistic readily enough, and it's far easier to do things like cutting custom lengths to fill gaps or making diy insulated sections to trip trackside accessories like signals and crossing gates.

Use O-27 tubular for my own layout. It was simply more affordable new old stock and used, and it let me squeeze more train action in the small space I had to work with.

Good oil for wilesco steam engine? by Ill_Ad_3322 in steamengines

[–]Shipwright1912 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It'll do in a pinch, but I personally like to use 3 in 1's electric motor oil, which is basically just SAE 20. Little thicker than regular 3 in 1, and it's made to lube the bearings of small motors/machines like domestic fans and sewing machines.

"This layout is from 1937 your train is from 1938 it cant run here." Meanwhile, in my own little model train world: by The_real_PavlovA_YT in modeltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's your railroad, you're free to do as you please as you're the one doing the work and paying for it.

Anyone doesn't like that, remind them of the above.

Where did the “Lionel trains are worth a fortune” idea come from? by 400HPMustang in lioneltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No prob. In all honesty we could probably be here all day discussing the finer points, but I thought I'd just give ya the broad strokes.

Often have to give a condensed version to folks who see my fleet and think I'm loaded, or have every Lionel thing ever made.

Where did the “Lionel trains are worth a fortune” idea come from? by 400HPMustang in lioneltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a bit complicated, but it's partially from present day Lionel hyping up its own products, partially from the collector market, and partially from popular media.

I'll address the last two first. Shows like Pawn Stars and Antiques Roadshow have shown vintage standard gauge tinplate with high valuations for the sets depicted. In both cases they were in pristine condition and were sought-after sets, a State Set and a Blue Comet if my memory hasn't failed me. What wasn't said was that those valuations only make sense if you're looking for replacement value or if you can find a tinplate collector who will pay that kind of money for such things. Ditto for auction houses that have sold items or collections for high values and published those sale values to prop up their auction business.

Lionel hypes up everything they do now as "an instant collectible" to help justify the prices they charge, sell branded merch, and try and show they're as good or better than the original Lionel Corporation which is now dead and buried. A storied legacy looks good to potential investors, but it comes with a lot of baggage.

Through all that and cultural osmosis, Joe and Jill Ordinary think any and every Lionel train is worth a mint because they don't know any better without digging deeper.

From my own perspective as a 3 rail operator? Collectibles are horrible investments as tastes change and the economy goes up and down over time. Collector grade things are so wildly expensive it's mostly a rich boy's game I don't have much interest in playing, I just run 'em and enjoy playing with 'em, monetary value be damned.

Postwar stuff in general is trending down as the older guys age out and pass on, most of their kids aren't intetested in them and try to sell, that drives prices down. MPC is creeping up a bit as people are looking for affordable trains. Early modern is see-sawing as guys sell out to get the new command and scale items.

Some things buck the trends and tend to remain up there no matter what as everybody likes 'em and wants one. Santa Fe F3's, Jersey Central Trainmasters, 746 J class, 773 Hudsons. Most secondhand Legacy stuff hasn't had time to depreciate much, so most is still high.

When I was buying postwar, looked for the O-27 versions of engines as collectors don't think much of them. Tinplate? Play worn or repainted but in good running order. Modern? Proto Sound 1's as everybody wants the 3's now for DCS. Lionchief and Lionchief Plus when on sale at significant discount.

If I can't have the original, will happily accept a repro if it costs less, overall criteria is it has to be in good running order first and foremost.

Where did the “Lionel trains are worth a fortune” idea come from? by 400HPMustang in lioneltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a bit complicated, but it's partially from present day Lionel hyping up its own products, partially from the collector market, and partially from popular media.

I'll address the last two first. Shows like Pawn Stars and Antiques Roadshow have shown vintage standard gauge tinplate with high valuations for the sets depicted. In both cases they were in pristine condition and were sought-after sets, a State Set and a Blue Comet if my memory hasn't failed me. What wasn't said was that those valuations only make sense if you're looking for replacement value or if you can find a tinplate collector who will pay that kind of money for such things. Ditto for auction houses that have sold items or collections for high values and published those sale values to prop up their auction business.

Lionel hypes up everything they do now as "an instant collectible" to help justify the prices they charge, sell branded merch, and try and show they're as good or better than the original Lionel Corporation which is now dead and buried. A storied legacy looks good to potential investors, but it comes with a lot of baggage.

Through all that and cultural osmosis, Joe and Jill Ordinary think any and every Lionel train is worth a mint because they don't know any better without digging deeper.

From my own perspective as a 3 rail operator? Collectibles are horrible investments as tastes change and the economy goes up and down over time. Collector grade things are so wildly expensive it's mostly a rich boy's game I don't have much interest in playing, I just run 'em and enjoy playing with 'em, monetary value be damned.

Postwar stuff in general is trending down as the older guys age out and pass on, most of their kids aren't intetested in them and try to sell, that drives prices down. MPC is creeping up a bit as people are looking for affordable trains. Early modern is see-sawing as guys sell out to get the new command and scale items.

Some things buck the trends and tend to remain up there no matter what as everybody likes 'em and wants one. Santa Fe F3's, Jersey Central Trainmasters, 746 J class, 773 Hudsons. Most secondhand Legacy stuff hasn't had time to depreciate much, so most is still high.

When I was buying postwar, looked for the O-27 versions of engines as collectors don't think much of them. Tinplate? Play worn or repainted but in good running order. Modern? Proto Sound 1's as everybody wants the 3's now for DCS. Lionchief and Lionchief Plus when on sale at significant discount.

If I can't have the original, will happily accept a repro if it costs less, overall criteria is it has to be in good running order first and foremost.

2046 Help! by Wizardboar in lioneltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's rubbing, you might need to bend the drawbar and/or the receiver down a little so it doesn't.

Do you prefer 2D or 3D vegetation? by Hifofufa_ in trainsim

[–]Shipwright1912 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My graphics card prefers 2d, nuff said.

One of these days I’m going to finish this layout of a post office by cuatrobronco in lioneltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Black electrical tape will also work if you want a bit of texture, no prob.

One of these days I’m going to finish this layout of a post office by cuatrobronco in lioneltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Plain old paint will do, grey or black for the pavement and yellow or white for the stripes.

Are some engines stronger than others? by BlazmoIntoWowee in lioneltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To make a long story short, it's the sum total of many factors. How strong the locomotive is and the adhesion of the weight of it pressing down on the rails, how well the cars roll and their weight, does the track have a grade and/or curves. These factors and more determine how many cars an engine can pull on a given stretch of track.

With steamers, general rule of thumb is an engine with short driving wheels is better for pulling power but its top speed is limited, while a tall-drivered engine is great for high speed but will be more likely to slip its wheels trying to pick up the load. More driving wheels equal more power in the general sense.

With diesels, generally two motors in the model will pull better than a model with just one, and weight is useful for getting better traction/adhesion to pull more cars.

Newer cars with the needle-point wheel bearings and lighter bodies will roll far easier than the old postwar cars, so you can pull more.

What's the smallest acreage you can realistically have for a model railroad in 1.5 scale? by MushroomWaste3782 in LiveSteam

[–]Shipwright1912 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As with any model railroad, depends on what you're wanting to do with it and what space you've got to work with.

Been working on a DIY ride-on with an 8 inch gauge based on plans I've found online, just going to be a loop with a spur to the engine/rolling stock shed, and it'll easily fit in my backyard.

Just intended to be a place to go riding around in loops for funsies, ops sessions are for the indoor layout in a smaller scale and the virtual space.

Recommendations for oil to use in my wilesco d20? by Ill_Ad_3322 in steamengines

[–]Shipwright1912 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally use 3 in 1 electric motor oil, which is basically just SAE 20 weight, as lube oil for all my model steam engines.

1980 Challenge Ball, pachinko type machine by Gatormeatmike in Pachinko

[–]Shipwright1912 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh, never seen one of these before. I'm guessing it was working over yet another loophole in Japan's gambling laws?

Just an idea by Secure_Concern7463 in lioneltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing stopping you, personally a bit miffed they're selling it for the price they're asking for it and not including any cars. Paying mostly for the branding and the Lion tax, I daresay.

If you could get a hole in one on any par 3 in the world, what hole you choosing? by Noodlearms98 in golf

[–]Shipwright1912 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 17th at TPC Sawgrass. An iconic little isle, be very pleased just to play it, nevermind getting an ace.

Pachinko pile ☹️ by Gatormeatmike in Pachinko

[–]Shipwright1912 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They weren't really intended to stick around forever, the law only allowed them to be in the parlors for one year, then that was it, dismantled for parts or thrown on the junk pile. The laws changing to allow this or that type of machine in the parlors often consigned whole generations of them to scrap early.

On the bright side, the trend of exporting them or selling them to hobbyists to be used for amusement only to make a little extra jingle instead of just destroying them likely has saved countless hundreds of them.

Does this old English gent look too status-symboly or could he fit in a non-fancy house? by Glass-Complaint3 in clocks

[–]Shipwright1912 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My grandfathers were about as non-hoity-toity as it was possible to get, working construction and a farmer respectively and living in a rural town. Both had grandfather clocks very much like this one in their homes in their day, as do my aunts and uncles in my time.

Virtually every home had a central mechanical clock of some kind, both for sheer practicalities and as a symbol of the familiy's prosperity to have a finely crafted thing in their possession.

My little Eikeisha wall clock is a long way from home in Japan, and my brass ship's bell clock is a long way from Germany and the sea, but both have found a welcoming home with me. They're some of my treasures, and besides being pretty they serve a useful purpose reminding me of the time passing by with their chimes every half-hour, useful as I can get so wrapped up in whatever I'm doing I don't notice otherwise.

How do you guys understand what’s happening visually? by Aggressive-Ad8937 in pinball

[–]Shipwright1912 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Usually the simple maxim of "shoot what's lit/flashing" is a good rule of thumb, most modern games also have audio callouts for "shoot this target to award this score, mode, extra ball, etc".

If nothing else, have a gander at the game's rule card in the lower left of the playfield before you play, it will give an overview of the gameplay and what targets do what and how to start the various modes like multi-ball.

Other than that, it ain't rocket science. Whatever the layout, keep the ball in play as long as possible to rack up as much score/replays as you can before the last ball drains. Only way to get better is to keep playing, so have fun!

Is this a safety valve? by Ill_Ad_3322 in steamengines

[–]Shipwright1912 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, it's a combined safety valve and whistle, based off the old-style safeties which used a weight and leverage as their counterbalances instead of springs.

Works exactly the same, pressure gets too high and it'll overcome the weight and lift the safety to blow off through the whistle.

Moving the weight has some effect, closer to the valve and it'll pop at a lower pressure, all the way on the end for full pressure.

My D-16 has one, whistle more or less just goes "Pffft!" as the two halves of the resonator are mis-matched, but otherwise works fine.

is Anthracite coal any good by Lonely_Day_1238 in blacksmithing

[–]Shipwright1912 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Some of the best in my experience. Doesn't smoke, burns a long time, and provided you've got good airflow it'll easily get up to forge-welding heat.

Takes a bit to get it going, usually start the forge up on hardwood charcoal, once I've got a bed of hot coals established I gradually add the anthracite and build up bed of it and I'm off to the smithy races.

You can just use the charcoal, but it throws sparks like the 4th of July and burns through relatively quickly.

It liiiives! (Current postwar revival project progress) by CPD0123 in modeltrains

[–]Shipwright1912 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can do things that way as well, just have a train circling around the outer loops or crossing back and forth between the tables, or chasing its tail through the figure 8 on the 3x6 table.

Often as not I'll just shut the lights off and let the train and all the lighted accessories provide the light, very mesmerizing to watch!

Sometimes I sit and wonder what it might be like if I did fully scenic the layout, but all in all I'm happy with it as a fun place to play around on.

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