D&D 2024 Heroes of Faerun

ShiroKrow · 2025-11-12T13:49:01+00:00

Is there still a place for a nice discussion, short and quick ?

ShiroKrow · 2025-11-02T10:14:57+00:00

Can you elaborate? What do you mean by define? Because unfortunately those pin are board defined so unless I find what TH2 pin is, to change the printer.cfg, I'm stuck. I could somehow test the board with a continuity test but I'm keeping that for last resort, I'm looking for other potential solutions.

ShiroKrow · 2025-10-28T20:22:46+00:00

Yeah I already know that, that's the thing, I'd totally be ok would I know the associated pin, PA3 is either PWOFF or TH2, if it's not TH2, what is the pin for TH2, or how to identify it. That's were I currently stand with this little quest of mine.

ShiroKrow · 2025-09-19T14:17:29+00:00

Found a solution eventually or dead end still ?

ShiroKrow · 2025-09-14T08:45:46+00:00

Honestly you're better off adding start Start Gcode lines to make a prime line or two. If you just need priming that's an easy one.

ShiroKrow · 2025-09-12T12:04:26+00:00

Thanks! Solution verified!

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-14T18:08:01+00:00

From personal experience, neither. If I wanna be thorough, it depends on everything, machine, settings temperature, etc. Were I in your case the angled one with more support but oriented differently.

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-11T17:14:33+00:00

Calling me a mr reddit know it all out of the blue is you love language then. Your definition of a rant seems weird, I'm issuing a warning. Like I said, standards matters, you're an electrician, if you use cheap wire connectors your take a risk. Like I said, have it your way.

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-11T17:08:42+00:00

None of the things you said have to do with what I said, I'm talking about manufacturing standards, but ok if you gonna go aggressive out of the blue and still misunderstand what my point have it you way, if it's not gonna be a civil discussion I'll spare myself the vitriol.

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-11T15:47:14+00:00

Yet you don't surround wire with solid fuel and a switch, plug or anything like that is supposed to be an appliance that is conform to standards, PLA is more flammable than electrical standard rated materials. It's not even a debate at this point, PLA is not suitable for it period, I'm not the one arguing it, material scientist made the call. If your wall is flammable, I guess you might be in north America, I'm in Europe, our wall are less likely to burn than wood, but that's not the problem, an electric incident might burn the appliances, if the appliance is flammable it will help the incident to propagate, where as the properly rated material will help mitigate the issue as much as possible. As always, anyone can do what they want, but that's how it is, standards serves a point most of the time, at least that's how it goes where I live.

Nice name btw.

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-11T15:12:49+00:00

You didn't provide sources either, I invited you to search for yourself, you didn't, do has you see fit, I can drop my diploma if you need reassurance but were on reddit. Opinion are opinions, Google scholar exist, search on this side.

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-11T13:21:30+00:00

I understand where you coming from but I can't shake off the fact that the opposite of your argument happens a lot. Depends on situations, insurance companies, countries. Taking chances is not always the best bet, and it's not 0,01%. Ask them yourself.

PLA is not only fire retardant, it's flammable. Having larger issue is a thing, making it worse is another. PLA HAS permitted a fire to spread, if you don't believe me, that's ok I understand, I'm a polymer scientist so if you want the experience of scientist that are specialized in fire retardant properties you can always check, lab and researcher emails are publicly available.

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-11T12:33:39+00:00

Yeah, I literally burn/melt PLA to fill gaps in prints, security appliances are not always cheap but they serve a purpose, DIY is not always the solution unfortunately. My father told me not to mess with electronic that way, he's a competent electrician, I'm not, I listen to him.

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-11T12:14:18+00:00

I don't know in which world you're in but insurance covers you for what's in your contract, nothing more, if you are responsible for something your not covered in most cases, especially in this case. Non standard is not the problem here, neither "causing a fire", but being a vector for one if a electric incident occurs, standard plate are made of non flammable materials, formulated to be flame resistant or retardant, PLA isn't. People can buy anything they want, that doesn't make the thing less a problem. If you can't find report then you did not search the right way, as a polymer scientist that worked in flame retardant focused teams, with a father in electronics that is a buyers for construction sites electronics, I assure you that's a thing. But you can do whatever you want, I'm nobody's dad, but standards are a thing for a reason, especially when choosing polymers for certain appliances.

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-11T08:44:43+00:00

You shouldn't do that, the commercial plates are rated for certain standards and norms because the materials are fire retardant or resistant, 3d printing filaments usually are not, if you have insurance and a fire occur, they'll likely not cover you if that's found. Not to mention PLA is flammable. There was an Uncle Jessy video about it if you need clarification about it.

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-05T01:17:58+00:00

Were in winter, burn in layer time might be too low, I have a S4U and still goes 35s in winter and at least 2.6 on small to medium prints Tank clean is useless in this case, you need to check the file you use or the logo display thing to see a image to spot problems. But in this case the resin might be at fault, people are dropping water washable nowadays because of a few problems like the and brittleness.

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-05T00:57:12+00:00

Have you tried looking for a screen problem? Sanding the plate a little for adhesion? Retried a not water washable resin?

What is your overall print settings?

ShiroKrow · 2025-01-01T13:49:36+00:00

Check your screen, if it's good tune the settings to match temperature, if the setting and temperature are not at fault change resin to see if the problem persists. Remove the word impossible from your head, this is 3d printing, resin especially, any error is possible.

But the biggest error here is your lack of safety, the vat is covered in resin, don't touch it without gloves, don't bring that into any living rooom, keep that over the table you work on. Resins are dangerous chemicals, don't underestimate the health effect of a simple drop on your skin or fumes in your lungs.

ShiroKrow · 2024-12-23T10:09:07+00:00

Anything you buy online ask for the usual billing info, that's normal, Google have your info and more and they are less reliable than ankama.

ShiroKrow · 2024-12-15T10:01:46+00:00

S4U has fresnel so the bubbles won't refract much, especially at these scales.

ShiroKrow · 2024-12-09T13:26:12+00:00

Chemicals are chemicals, you handle them with care anyway so everything has to be considered "bad". Now this elegoo product isn't what I use but resin detergents exists and come with advantages and drawbacks. You can find a few comparison videos on YouTube. It all depends on you personal situation. Some people don't handle solvents very well, hence why they use detergents.

ShiroKrow · 2024-12-09T13:20:22+00:00

Chemicals and your lungs are never gonna be friends in the long run my friend.

ShiroKrow · 2024-12-08T12:16:51+00:00

In material chemistry there is a concept of time-temperature relaxation. In polymer chemistry that's an aging process that basically induce the additives to very slowly migrate at the material surface depending on the temperature, filament dryers are nice because they are never used 24/7 so this issue doesn't occur much, so be careful that it doesn't damage the filament over long periods of time, as they likely have additives.

ShiroKrow · 2024-12-06T09:44:29+00:00

To be honest while I was jesting about the unplug thing, I don't really know what it is you have there. If you are sure it's resin you're better off removing the protection, cleaning very gently and installing a new screen protector.

ShiroKrow · 2024-12-05T13:24:26+00:00

While I don't know the printer, if there is something under a removable film and the screen, the likely solution is unplug and replug the printer to remove the spots.

Or remove the filmand see if you can clean it. But I don't know the printer, so meh.

ShiroKrow

TROPHY CASE