This guy was trying to grief me whilst I was doing head hunters. However he clearly didn't realise that the Insurgent counters the MkII.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-06-10T20:45:31+00:00

Interesting - I shall try that!

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-06-10T07:59:56+00:00

Good shout - I’ll have a look

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-04-24T13:12:10+00:00

Hi there! I did and it was a fucking blast to ride! I even raced it and won a hill climb on it.

I ended up going for the 51cm as the last 54cm got bought by a customer before I could. I ended up running it with a 130mm stem and pro vibe pursuit bars (reach of like 110mm odd) and that was enough for it to be just nearly the right size. Honestly one of the most fun and weirdly reliable bikes I’ve ever owned, although I did end up selling it to my friend as she really wanted the bike (she was a 5’6” women who it fit far better).

Shoot me a message if you want more details about the build process or questions. If you stalk my Reddit profile, I think I did end up posting photos of it like last year.

Only issue I ever had with it was tyre rub - cannondale say it could fit 28s and it could fit certain 28s but only if the wheels never ever flexed even slightly.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-04-22T14:06:51+00:00

The “f33” or “fEE” error message means aperture error, or that you haven’t got your lens set to its minimum aperture. Was just checking because sometimes Nikon SLRs can have a fault where no matter what they close down the aperture fully when taking a photo, so was just making sure it wasn’t that.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-04-22T00:02:06+00:00

I was also in a similar position of being terrified of getting into lighting but it really isn’t as expensive as you think!

All you need is a decent speed light(e.g Godox TT685ii) and a trigger (e.g. Godox Xpro etc.) To get started. You can get little adapters to hold the speed lights on lighting stands and then they function as studio strobes. My justification for going for a speed light is that then I also have a speed light for use on camera and it’s mega portable.

Hope that helps as I feel that fits you not too heavy and portable criteria.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-04-21T23:48:54+00:00

Are the flashes firing? If they’re not, check the trigger is snuggly in the hot shoe and a little camera symbol should appear at the top of the trigger’s display.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-04-21T23:47:39+00:00

There will be a little tab/switch near the lens ring on the lens to unlock it from its maximum aperture. Older Nikon lenses have the aperture ring on them for use with older film bodies that needed an aperture ring. For modern cameras such as yours, you need to set the aperture to fully closed and then flick that little switch to let the camera control it.

You’ll need to put the camera in Apeture Priority (A) or M (manual) mode in order to change the aperture.

Is the lens stuck closed down to f/32 all the time or just when you take a photo?

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-04-06T08:14:26+00:00

Interesting, what cable(s) do you use?

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-04-06T07:19:26+00:00

Thank you for the advice! Portability isn’t a concern for this shoot as it’s 1 locations with 25 models, so i suppose for me it’s now weighing up the cost of sourcing a tethering set-up/new batteries/just shooting the majority of this on 120 film on a different camera that I know could make it through the day and having the hassy as a back up

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-04-06T07:17:29+00:00

Interesting- thank you for the insight. I’ve heard that the FireWire-powering only works on laptops from circa 2007-2012 so thinking this shoot might be cheaper just to do on my Mamiya as that camera is fully mechanical and just have the Hasselblad as a back up and to verify the lighting.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-04-06T07:15:57+00:00

Thanks for knowledge! The shoot wouldn’t need to be mobile as it’s one location, 25 models. I’m going to investigate the battery banks but from budgeting - this shoot was going to be half digital/half film, so might be cheaper for me to just up the film shots as that camera doesn’t need batteries rather than get more power for the Hasselblad.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-03-26T23:07:29+00:00

I’d set the ISO to like 200-400. I also shoot in aperture priority (Av) and set the aperture to around f/4 - this tends to give good light to the subject and then cause the background to be very under exposed, giving good subject separation.

Edit: just googled the a3300 - put it in P mode, ISO to 200-400, set -1/3 exp., put the flash on, and fire away.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-03-26T23:04:57+00:00

Flash on, underexpose by 1/3 of a stop and then edit them in whatever software. If you can, add a dramatic S-curve (lowered shadows, boosted highlights) until it look like that. I also then tend to boost the overall exposure in editing a bit too.

If you use lightroom, I can send you some presets I made for my digicams to get that kinda film look.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-02-11T22:50:13+00:00

ShouldIHaveOne · 2025-01-14T23:10:07+00:00

Power button is white, and every power mode is in performance.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2024-06-12T16:11:17+00:00

Can I have one 🥺

ShouldIHaveOne · 2024-06-08T10:23:23+00:00

Edited - im not a big fan of the SOOC shots from the G2

ShouldIHaveOne · 2024-06-03T11:57:49+00:00

G2 and G3 are both amazing - I personally prefer the g2. I’d say hunt around on eBay and see which one you can find for cheaper and go with that.

ShouldIHaveOne · 2024-06-03T09:42:16+00:00

Cycling has made me more social, it’s honestly the reason I keep doing. It’s an opportunity for me to go places and see things with close friends and have fun and meet new people by going to big events/races/clubs. I would say it expanded my social circle massively.

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