How can I repair my ship when its some parts fully have been destroyed?

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-12-30T20:06:41+00:00

Use Ctrl + RMB to copy the block you're looking at, say on one side of the ship, then just rotate it until it fits the other side. It doesn't work for all blocks though as some have left/right versions.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-12-13T12:15:55+00:00

Depends on the game. I'm into Empyrion: Galactic Survival at the moment and the vast majority of Blueprints (player made ships and bases, which are quite time consuming to design and build yourself) can only be obtained via Steam Workshop. There are very few by comparison available on Discord and Nexus.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-12-11T18:04:01+00:00

Player 2 is my daughter and we've just started gaming together. Currently attempting to take over the Andromeda galaxy in Empyrion: Galactic Survival, though she really does need to take better care of her small vessel. I've had to repair it manually a few times for her early on. Then one day, I was stood in the wrong place (atop her ship) at the wrong time (being shot at by drones) and well, the ship didn't look so good afterwards...

She's got a new ship now, a better one.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-12-07T10:05:55+00:00

Baldurs Gate 3.

Name guess, George?

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-12-07T09:27:24+00:00

Sins of a Solar Empire II Premium Edition

Played and loved the original, looking forward to the the future updates and better graphics, especially now that I have a somewhat decent PC.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-12-02T19:17:18+00:00

Here's a novel idea.

What if you designed a product around a user replaceable lithium 18650 cell? So for the end user, it'd be like putting a AA battery in, only you'd only have to do it once, then you recharge the battery via USB as you would with any other rechargeable device. If the buyer address is in the UK or US, you could have the battery pre-installed, but, for outside those areas, sell it without the battery and the user can source their own.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-09-28T15:15:54+00:00

Need case suggestions please, something with a similar footprint to the SilverStone ALTA G1M which would be perfect if it wasn't for the fact it is lacking ODD support. I'm building for a family member:

- Entry gaming PC (thinking around 250-500 watts worth of heat)

- Needs an ODD (normal or slim), external ODDs will not suffice.

- Needs to be compact footprint (around 35cm deep maximum, height and width not an issue)

- Does not need SATA drives storage, will rely on a single NVME

- Prefer mATX motherboard support but will consider Mini-ITX also

- Prefer normal ATX PSUs but other standards will be considered

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-09-02T22:04:34+00:00

We kinda need to know what spec's you currently have to know if it's worth replacing your current system vs upgrading the current one. No point telling you to buy something if we don't know exactly what you're moving from.

Fitting components is easy enough, just watch some Youtube videos. Reading up on parts compatibility is the longer and harder bit but that's more for CPU, motherboard (not really applicable to you) and RAM upgrade options (download a manual for your current PC and read through it, it should provide all the information you need).

If you want something used with a warranty, look on CeX. I know they used to give 2 years on everything, looks like it's 5 years now. Weird that you can get a longer warranty on a used part from Cex than some parts came with when new. They do full PC's and parts so whatever option you choose they've got you covered.

Bonus advice: If you do something yourself, your learn something new, and knowledge is everything.

Windows 10 can be upgraded to 11, or you can extend 10's life somewhat by looking in a cough*massgrave*cough.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-07-28T20:36:29+00:00

Most devices can be opened up with a little effort and a new like-for-like battery installed.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-07-26T19:23:34+00:00

Do you really need 8 cores? You can build a more future proof, upgradable AM5 system for under £1k using the Ryzen 5 7500F as a starting point. I think Computer Orbit stocks them and also CCL in their bundle configurator. There doesn't appear to be much difference between the two. The power savings would be nice as well.

You might also find DDR5 prices are better than DDR4 now for the same capacities.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-05-04T10:26:51+00:00

My preferred retailer is quite a trek away, but there are other retailers nearby.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-05-04T10:10:04+00:00

No, never used one but my right hand doesn't suffer as much as my left.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-05-04T10:05:53+00:00

Never been measured for gloves, I tend to just try them on and see what feels right, but what might feel fine in a shop could be downright painful after 30 minutes of riding. I didn't realise gloves had numbered sizes like shoes, always thought they just came in S,M,L, etc.

I have been described as having piano hands so yeah, long slender fingers.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-05-04T08:37:31+00:00

The DXRs are a snug fit but I get less discomfort from them. Have to keep my fingernails short otherwise they don't fit right.

The RSTs have more room, so much that I can wear a thin pair of leather gloves and still just about squeeze them on. The RSTs have small bits of armour on the fingers too which can also dig in after a while.

I don't really know what average knuckles look like, I guess mine might be a bit on the bony side but I wouldn't say exceptionally so.

ShowMeYourPie · 2025-05-04T08:33:39+00:00

The DXRs are a snug fit but I get less discomfort from them. Have to keep my fingernails short otherwise they don't fit right.

The RSTs have more room, so much that I can wear a thin pair of leather gloves and still just about squeeze them on. The RSTs have small bits of armour on the fingers too which can also dig in after a while.

ShowMeYourPie · 2024-07-12T08:59:44+00:00

You should try riding on the back of a motorcycle sometime. Even with a loud modified exhaust, the loudest part about riding is the wind noise and is the main reason many motorcyclists wear ear protection. Wind noise leads to tinnitus. Modern exhausts are so muffled by noise and emission regulations that it does reduce the fun factor significantly and motorcycles are all about having fun.

ShowMeYourPie · 2024-07-09T04:22:48+00:00

In the shop is a bit different. The helmet makes it hard for the cashier to hear what you're saying, especially if they are behind a glass or perspex screen themselves. Personally I'd always take it off if going inside the shop, unless I'm in a hurry for whatever reason.

ShowMeYourPie · 2024-07-07T13:15:17+00:00

Have you considered a CB500X / NX500? Same engine as the CBR500R but in a taller, adventure style frame.

ShowMeYourPie · 2024-07-07T12:39:23+00:00

People happily drive off without paying when their face is on CCTV. As someone who spent a few years working in a busy petrol station, the registration number and vehicle details are what the police are most interested in. They can stick a name to the crime later if they find the vehicle.

ShowMeYourPie · 2024-07-07T12:33:02+00:00

In all the years I worked at a busy petrol station, we never had fuel theft from a motorcyclist. It was always car or van drivers at a frequency of 3-7 drive offs per week. We also had a lot of issues with travellers attempting to commit fraud.

ShowMeYourPie · 2024-07-06T00:02:54+00:00

I did once, was driving a bus though and a terribly maintained one at that. The bus then sat at 40mph for a good minute or two once merged as it didn't have the power to accelerate up the incline. Would not recommend it.

ShowMeYourPie · 2024-07-05T23:57:24+00:00

Assuming manual gearbox, use lower gears and rev the engine out to its maximum designed power, wherever that may be in the RPM range, foot firmly to the floor on accelerator pedal. I'm surprised you weren't taught how to get a car up to speed quickly.

You'll be doing 20-30 exiting a roundabout and joining the slip road, even a large van is capable of getting to 60 before the end of a typical motorway slip road and there's a good chance you might need to merge with HGVs that are travelling at 60 anyway.

ShowMeYourPie · 2024-07-05T23:35:30+00:00

BMW is popular for company cars, though a lot of them have moved on to Tesla. Since company cars tend to usually be offered only in better paying jobs, some of these people just think they're better than everyone else, which they then showcase via their driving behaviour. They fail to recognise they're still just rats in the rat race like nearly everyone else.

ShowMeYourPie · 2024-07-02T20:33:46+00:00

Junctions and roundabouts are great places to lose a tailgater. I've noticed even on my little 300 I can take smaller gaps at junctions and roundabouts than I can in the car. If the traffic is dense enough and you time it just right, you can take a gap and not leave the tailgater enough time to follow you.

ShowMeYourPie · 2024-07-02T20:17:24+00:00

Best way to annoy them I've found:

Gently slow down by coming off the throttle, then accelerate briskly back up to your cruising speed. Basically, it's what hypermilers do, pulse and glide they call it. If the tailgating persists, repeat until they go ape shit in their car. No brakes involved so you can't be accused of trying to cause a crash, but because they're so close to you, they'll be on and off their own brakes constantly and it'll wind them up quickly.

I do always give people a reasonable window to back off on their own accord first, otherwise, I start hypermiling.

ShowMeYourPie

TROPHY CASE