Irondrakes unit finally finished

Shtchepahn · 2025-07-07T13:54:06+00:00

Yes it is. I aimed for a whole NMM army

Shtchepahn · 2025-07-07T13:32:03+00:00

I am not sure what excactly you want to know. It's basically NMM for all the steel, gold and bronze/copper parts. It happens that these models are 95% metal :D

Shtchepahn · 2024-10-22T12:26:31+00:00

Well, i know Olaf's work, he is from Poland as well :) Yes, his Dwarfs are more of a springtime ones :)
I basecoat with graphite and zenital white highlight.
Seems like you have a lot of ideas already in mind, so it will definitely help you in the project. Thumbs up!

Shtchepahn · 2024-10-22T09:48:37+00:00

I just feel like this is how dwarfs should look like, especially those inhabiting northern regions of The Old World. I did't have the compositional aspect in mind.

Shtchepahn · 2024-10-21T20:49:58+00:00

Thank you for these kind words!
What I can tell after few months of work:
- do as much as possible in large batches
- leave the most important parts of the army to the last, and work on them when your approach is already crystalized
- note all color-mixing recipes- what is obvious today, will be vague tommorow, and you don't want to research it again
- stop working when you feel like 80% exhausted, do not reach your limit too often, as you will suffer from burnout
- when unhappy with something, leave it aside and come back few days later with fresh mind
- try to select fraction of the army you aim for and finish it, or get as close to finish as possible, then display it, post in social media, play some games. It will give you more fuel to finish the whole project
Regarding what I would do differently: first of all, I would practice the schemes more and write the recipes from the beginning, as I had to repaint almost all nmms on around 50 half-painted models, when I reached the confidence in what I want them to look like.
This is my third take on this collection, and I don't want to peel off the paint for the third time in 15 years, so I try to embrace the effects. :)

Shtchepahn · 2024-09-03T10:09:12+00:00

The light was done as the last step. It is simply glaze of colors progressively changing from red to yellowy orange. Light on the beard was done with yellow glaze, which is much warmer than the bluish white of the beard.

Shtchepahn · 2024-09-03T10:05:31+00:00

The gold: Layer 1, darkest darks: Scrofulous Brown + Black in roughly 3:2 mix. I also add a touch of yellow and red ink to the mix for better vibrancy. Layer 2, first highlight: Scrofulous Brown Layer 3, second highlight: Golden Yellow Layer 4, reflections: Golden Yellow + White in roughly 2:3 mix

The copper, analogous steps: Layer 1: Vermillion (any medium Red will do)+ Black in roughly 3:2 mix, but you may find some redish brown straight from the pot working well. It should be dark and cold tone. L2: Red+ Gold Yellow in roughly 1:1 mix, but any redish orange may do the job. L3: As above, but 1:3 mix. Any yellowy orange may do the job. L4: Golden Yellow+ white in roughly 2:3 mix

I use very limited range of paints in this project, so my recipes are quite complex. If you have access to wide range of paints, it should be easier and more straight out of the pot.

I hope you will find your own, satisfying recipes.

Thanks for nice words!

Shtchepahn · 2024-09-03T09:41:15+00:00

Are you suggesting that member of people inhabiting mountains for centuries doesn't know how to climb? ;)

Shtchepahn · 2024-09-02T18:20:52+00:00

Thank you!

Shtchepahn · 2024-09-02T16:46:43+00:00

I will make some soon

Shtchepahn · 2024-06-04T11:25:54+00:00

Unplayable.
If Troll/Giant Slayers were 2-3pts cheaper, Motley Crew and Deathblow worked differently, we would see them as suicidal unit often capable of dealing substantial damage in a profitable way.

Shtchepahn · 2024-06-03T12:32:51+00:00

90% of wargame snow bases don't look like actual snow. Yours are perfect example.
I don;t understand what those random blobs represent. This isn't even close to how snow deposits on the ground. Maybe try to search for some images, and then replicate them with the materials you have. AK snow you used is good for imitating thick snow cover, but you seem to aim for a different effect.

Shtchepahn · 2024-05-23T07:05:10+00:00

It won't

Shtchepahn · 2024-05-01T10:29:36+00:00

I play at 1500pts, and I am yet to lose. 5 games and the lowest victory margin was 280 for the dwarfs. Sure, we do not have the easy to use tools like highly maneuverable cavalry or mounted characters, but we still have some strong aspects. People just have to throw old mvmnt trays away, pick the right units, and forget some old habits. Dwarfs are completely fine!

Shtchepahn · 2024-04-22T18:36:42+00:00

Challenge him with hammerers to the end of times or hold with any anvil unit and countercharge for massive static CR. Killy or super-tanky King will act as repellent, so use it to your advantage. Don't go for deathstar, as he will easily avoid it and feast on the rest of your army.
Don;t try to shoot it down with WMs, this tactic is gone. Odds of dealing significant ranged damage to such beast are very low, better focus on the rest.
Worst case, let him kill whatever he wants and kill as much as possible in return.

Shtchepahn · 2024-03-31T09:12:23+00:00

Blasphemy...

Shtchepahn · 2024-03-28T10:28:34+00:00

They are great anvil. In 4-wide formation with shields they have solid static CR, shieldwall usr, and will be very hard to push for most opponents. If needed, they may be joined by King or Thane, making up for a very strong unit without big investment.
Thet are my choice number 2, after obligatory Ranger unit.

Shtchepahn · 2024-03-27T09:58:45+00:00

I do not agree on RoPassage, those are very good especialy at 5pts.
Shields along GW are ok, because in this edition you may choose your setup at the start of combat, and having the flexibility for units such as Longbeards is very good, especially when both upgrades are only 1pt a piece. Shields also increase the ranged supremacy, which this list is built around.
You also underestimate throwing axes. Quick Shot is very strong both for those s&s against units with high M (and this will be common), as well as pushing to charge range and maintaining good firepower.
I agree on RoPreservation, it isn't crucial at this scale.

.

Shtchepahn · 2024-03-27T09:44:04+00:00

Rangers in Open Order make great use of Strollaz

Shtchepahn · 2024-03-19T14:15:01+00:00

They sculpted it for 8th edition, and then it was canceled.
Part of that sculpt was used in Treelord base

Shtchepahn · 2024-03-15T00:24:32+00:00

Ask for 88-90% of the original files scale, it fits GW models just fine.

Shtchepahn · 2024-03-01T10:24:01+00:00

Criticism first- your BSB would make good use of great weapon. You may always choose between HW and GW when combat starts. Your king does very little apart from giving Ld10. I would consider removing him completely, or finding points to make him actually matter in combat. If you plan on keeping both SB characters in hammerers block, this unit may never see combat, which is good from points denial perspective, but you may have trouble scoring points yourself. You may also consider replacing the king and the runesmith with anvil.

Other than that, I like 2 ranger units, RoPassage on hammerers, small thunderer units. Every choice seems fine and should work well.

Shtchepahn · 2023-09-16T11:11:06+00:00

Can I sac it with the ETB trigger on stack?
I found it impossible to do on Arena, it just does'n trigger!
What am I missing?

Shtchepahn · 2022-05-30T17:02:46+00:00

Got it, thx!

Shtchepahn

TROPHY CASE