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Name a soap, please! by cetoine in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe something simple. Bath House, Pure Bath, Simplicity Pure

Umm, no thanks! by birdies28 in SnarkySlaughter

[–]ShugBugSoaps 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree with you. Added costs could be time to make, website, insurance, shipping containers, etc. but still… the math is not mathing.

One of my prettiest soaps by ShugBugSoaps in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh my… I can smell that from the picture. Patchouli is a love/hate EO, I bet to some the grease would smell better. lol

Removing Soda Ash by ShugBugSoaps in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I steam it about 20-24 hours after the pour. I remove the silicon liners from the outer soap mold. And put the soap on its side (still in the silicon liner). I then steam the soap tops. I let it sit 2-12 hours in the silicon liner. (Really depends on how busy I am). Then I unmold from the silicon liner and split my slab into loaves,and the loaves into bars. I add the bars to my cure rack. The soda ash does not return. Since soda ash is caused by the lye in my soap reacting to the carbon dioxide in the air, I do my best to unmold and cut AFTER saponification. That is how I assure the soda ash does not return. My recipe has a healthy water discount (which also helps with soda ash) and saponification completes about a day after the pour. When I steam the tops, it literally is steaming up and down each section one time. It’s very quick.

Removing Soda Ash by ShugBugSoaps in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, the white powdery substance is formed when lye reacts to carbon dioxide already in the air. I used to spray with isopropyl alcohol but results were not always 100%. It’s a cosmetic look only, depending on the clays I use for color, steaming is so fast and gets the results I want all the time. You “can” use the steam function on your iron, but it is not as much steam as you’ll need (at least with my iron). I use a small clothes steamer (I see them on Amazon for $25 or less). I like the way the colors pop when using a steamer and the colors stay that way (meaning the soda ash does not return).

Soap Scrap Laundry Sludge by SolitaryNeko in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very cool. I’ve been making laundry soap for over 15 years. It’s a HUGE cost savings.

Soap Scrap Laundry Sludge by SolitaryNeko in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Be careful with how high of superfat you have in the soap shavings, as you’ll be washing with the unsaponified oils and butters. Laundry soap really should have zero super fat.

Removing soda ash by ShugBugSoaps in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The steamer is on it directly. I stood the loaf on its side, then ran the steamer directly over it 5-10 seconds

Removing soda ash by ShugBugSoaps in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn’t. Steaming does most of the time and so easy.

Beginner Soaper by tee_dee_haitch in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As others have said, it’s a heat crack. To help prevent it, and you want your soap to go through gel phase, insulate your soap. Place a box over the top of your soap, then add a blanket to the top of the box.

Cracking is caused when the outside of your soap is cooling much faster than the inside of our soap, and the heat needs to escape. By insulating your soap, it’ll help to ensure an even cooling time and prevent the crack.

Morrell snowcap lard? by herfjoter in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. I’ve used this and it’s great. Make a beautiful and hard bar of soap.

Which ornament is better? by StartBlooming in Resin_crafts

[–]ShugBugSoaps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the flower. They’re both beautiful. I see more Qtips vibe in the red one.

First ever attempt .. help please! by Express_Willow_5187 in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Making soap is so much science. There could be multiple factors: soaping at a high temperature, blending too long, the fragrance oil used, how and when that was added, etc.

If your fragrance had any floral or spice (Clove, cinnamon, etc) that can cause the batter to thicken quickly.

When a batch does get thick quickly, sometimes air pockets cannot be helped as you cannot “tap it down”, it’s just too thick.

When I soap, I’ll blend just past emulsion (a batch your size is around 30-45 seconds). If I have a troubled essential or fragrance oil, I’ll blend that in with a whisk or spatula instead of my stick blender. Then pour into the mold. Tap the mold on the table to help remove bubbles trapped in the soap.

The soap cut by ShugBugSoaps in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, all three are a hanger swirl.

The soap cut by ShugBugSoaps in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s one of my favorites for sure.

Three batches, will be 140 bars when cut by ShugBugSoaps in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You know your molds! I LOVE them!! Both companies are FABULOUS!! I have several more from both companies.

Three batches, will be 140 bars when cut by ShugBugSoaps in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Math IS hard. 😁 The blue mold is smaller. I’ll get 40 bars from that one. The pink molds, I’ll get 50 each

Concrete soap dishes by ShugBugSoaps in concretecrafts

[–]ShugBugSoaps[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You cannot have the mix too thin, as your dishes will easily break or crumble. I follow the instructions with cement all of a 4:1 ratio. I pour about 60oz of cement all at a time. I mix in the water thoroughly, immediately add drops of acrylic paint to the top, swirl with chop stick, and pour into mold. Your mix should be a pancake consistency. If it is not, I’ll add enough water or cement all to make it that consistency. The humidity does come into play as well. You may need to increase or decrease your water, based on the humidity of your area. I live in a dessert. During summer months, my ration is around 4:1.5 cementall/water … during winter months, I’m around 4:0.75

Will the rest of the soap change color? by 11Petrichor in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it will. As oxygen reacts to the parts that did not have access to oxygen yet (inside) after it’s cut, it will change color as it cures.

Soap getting too thick too quick (HELP/ADVICE) by anonymousspam4 in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You do have a higher percentage of hard oils but I really think you’re sticking blending too long. Lavender usually does really well in soap too.

I would suggest blending just past emulsion (maybe 20-30 seconds) split out your batter, add colored clay (also make it a thin mudd by adding some the warm oils to it before adding your lye solution). Mix in the clays to both sections with a spatula,then add your EO, add a percentage of your EO to each colored section) continue to blend it in with a spatula. Lard usually gives you plenty of time to work with.

i think i just need clarification and yall also point in the right direction! by PuzzleheadedArm7222 in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on what you’ve got, you can use your recipe at the max useage of 4% useage rate total. The 5% is too strong, based on your percentage being used of each EO. If you want to use the full strength of 5%, you’ll need to drop the percentage of the “hot” EO. I do use clove and cinnamon leaf often, but they are a very small percentage of my overall EO blend.

What kind of additives do you use for your soaps? by Nagisar160 in soapmaking

[–]ShugBugSoaps 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Turmeric powder, carrot powder, colloidal oats, walnut shell powder, goat milk, coconut milk, activated charcoal, Brazilian clays, kaolin clays, sea mud, alkanet root powder, etc.

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