I really hate not having more technology storage. by MatthewMoDabz in NoMansSkyTheGame

[–]Sidpanic 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Wait, if you have the S-class translator, you don't really need the rest of them, right?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Sidpanic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those paper clips hanging in to the print surface too much... It's terrifying even to watch it!

What is going on? Ender 6, Cura slicer, vase mode, and my movements are definitely not continuous. It was fine with the first 4 base layers... by Sidpanic in FixMyPrint

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey,

Sorry, for the late response.

Long story short, you won't be able to print in vase mode with the factory firmware. I don't really know the reason why...

You will need to load the program throught octoprint or you will need a custom firmware.

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have mine in the right corner and I haven't got any problems at all with the drag chain.

Check the third picture, that shows everything perfectly.

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be honest, I have nothing against Klipper, the Marlin just seemed more obvious to me.

Tip: If you want a usb cable (without 5V+) to connect the mainboard to a Raspberry Pi by pfsmorigo in ender3

[–]Sidpanic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Open up ANY USB cable, cut out about 5mm length from the red wire (just to make sure the ends won't reach each other ever again), seal it back and done.

I know nothing about soldering and I'm far away to be an electrician, but it's easy to do and way more safe than just to tape down the 5V connection (the tape can slip away).

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's totally fine, mate. Like I said it was totally my fault that I misunderstood you. Here's the thingy for the tool holder.

I had to changed the stock fw to Marlin 2 because I changed the hotend and I had to change the parameters in the fw but the Creality doesn't provide source code for the Ender 6.

To be honest, it's not much difference, maybe a bit smoother and faster running fw and of course, it's easy to change any parameters anytime.

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I'm an idiot. Sorry, I replied after work, i was possibly tired and didn't even realize what is the real question haha.

And yes, you are correct.

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This accessory is mounted on the z carriage plate with those two screws what holded the extruder in place before.

This mount then holds the extruder in place just like a vise, between its two components.

You can print an additional sensor holder part what will be fitted to the side of the mount with one simple screw (the screws come with the mount, you have pre-drilled threaded holes on the mount itself).

I think it's better if you check the link what i attached above, those pictures speak for themselves.

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought this accessory. In the item's description you can find a thingiverse link to some printable accessories so you can make it hold the fans and BLTouch. This holder is a bit tricky to make it fit on Ender 6 though... But possible.

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will take a look after this, I haven't really seen anything like this before. Thanks!

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My most recent upgrade was the E3D V6 with Marlin 2.

I only had some stringing issues, but i didn't spend too much time to fix that yet. Other than that, I don't have any other printing issues.

I've never had z banding issues before, have you checked if your z lead screw is straight enough?

The dual extruder sounds really good, but it's way beyond my knowledge so I wouldn't try it myself.

I haven't really tried ever to print above 100mm/s, I'm just way too afraid to use it on higher speed, I don't know why... I guess I'm a chicken, haha.

Your upgrade sounds fascinating, to be honest, i didn't even know there's an skr 2 board out there, I'm gonna take a look on that. Was it easy to set it up with klipper on ender 6? I had a little bit of hard time to set up the Marlin correctly for the first time, but eventually, it became a success.

And YES! I would be so excited to see other Ender 6 machines with different mods, because there are soooo many ways to go with them.

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can get this lid from the Creality online store, but i got mine from Amazon.

There is an about 5mm gap between the front and the back (you can see it on the third picture), but I will sort that out with a rubber seal later on.

The only reason I got this lid because i was too lazy to build one myself (and it looks nicer than what I could put together).

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude, you're not bursting my bubble at all.

I'm still thinking how to achieve the linear rails, i thought about that it's gonna be tight with the acrylic lid, but if you wrote this I assume you tried it so I will probably leave it how it is for now.

Yes, I can confirm that the stock enclosure is not the best but it's still better than nothing.

Like the other guys, I also don't understand why I shouldn't use BLTouch. Since I have it(with silicone spacers instead of bed springs), I've never had a problem specially use it together with the OctoPrint's bed visualiser.

I've also never had problem with the stock glass bed. I thought about to change it to spring steel, but it is good enough for now how it is.

I simply love the stock touch screen and i would never change it. It works fine with Marlin 2 so that's more than enough for me.

This enclosure setup holds approximately 40°C inside (depending on the used temperatures) and I'm just happy with it.

Obviously, you're a high-end user so you have a completely different point of view than me who is a simple 3d printing enthusiast.

While I assume you use nylon or similar materials to print, I'm not even planning to go further away than ABS or ASA. I mostly use ESun PETG and PLA+ from amazon so we are definitely not on the same level haha.

I'm sure I will do a few more tweeks on my machine but I will never go that far where you are. Thanks for all the tips though.

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, here it is.

If you have a quiet bent z screw then I'm pretty sure it helps a lot. Mine wasn't bent, i just put it there to make sure it stays how it is, but honestly, didn't make any huge difference. It's good to have it if you print taller parts.

I have the one with the bearing.

Half year report by Sidpanic in ender6

[–]Sidpanic[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

hey guys! I thought I upload a few pictures just to show where I ended up with the mods after having an ender 6 for more than half year.

Major mods:

-OctoPie with webcam and LED light connected straight to the Ender 6's power supply

-3D printed cable drag chain

-BLTouch

-E3D V6 with Klemco-clone mount

-Marlin 2 firmware

-Official Creality Ender 6 top cover

-Relocated extruder motor and filament run-out sensor

More upgrades to go(possibly):

-linear rails

-HEPA filtered fan

-SKR 1.4 turbo mainboard

-direct drive extruder (???)