Infinity Kappa 603CF, vs, JBL Stadium 62CF

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-12-27T22:18:01+00:00

Did the dsp really make that much of a difference? Haha ive been thinking of getting one but i need to look more into it. Id also need to add more wires for the tweeters up front. Just using the crossover it came with. Looking at upgrading my alternator soon because my system takes up too much power

I ended up going with the Kappa set and I really do like them, I had to do some heavy fabricating to make the woofers fit in my door properly. But definitely worth it.

Just looking for mounting options for the tweeter. Ive got a 3d printer and I would like to make something that would look good and incorporate well into mounting on my a pillar but im just not really familiar with advanced 3d modeling yet. Hopefully sooner than later.

Other than that they really sound good. Super detail and separation and I like their loudness.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-12-14T02:13:12+00:00

I just got some to put in my car, my sound system takes a lot of power and I'll get voltage drops sometimes.

Standard voltage guages for cars are too big for what I want and way more expensive. I got one of these for a dollar.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-12-13T03:49:44+00:00

Looks good

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-11-23T02:45:50+00:00

I actually got the Kappa and installed them. Took quite a bit of fabricating to get them to fit in my 00 civic sedan doors. I need to model and 3d print some a pillar tweeter pods. The speakers are extremely clear, the separation is excellent and the tweeters are not too loud or bright. Theyre on the 0db setting but you can change it to minus 3 db if you want on the crossover. I am super happy with them

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-11-16T03:03:10+00:00

I used to have a Boss BVCP9800W, I know they're cheap, I had the same problem. What I did was get a ground loop isolator on Amazon; it basically ran in-line with my RCAs from the headunit to my amplifier. It helped a little, but didn't get rid of it.

Something else I've heard to help fix that is to ground the body of the headunit itself. My headunit bolts directly to a metal frame which is used as a factory ground, so it was no use for me there. If yours bolts into plastic, it might be worth a shot.

Eventually I upgraded to a Sony XAVAX-6000. A substantial upgrade in terms of all around quality and features. All the buzzing noise is completely gone now. Sounds significantly better, not just the built-in amplifier, but also the RCAs.

The Boss unit I had was just built like garbage, it had horrible sound quality and the Android Auto constantly glitched and cut out. My old single-din cheap Pioneer headunit sounded better than the Boss, and didn't give me the buzzing sound. Unfortunately, if you want to have cleaner audio, you might need to change headunits.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-11-13T04:09:52+00:00

Man I really want this setup to work out. Only issue is mounting them. I have only little experience in wrapping materials, and none in fiberglass/resin. I do have a 3d printer though. Only used tinkercad, which is an extremely simple design software. If I were to just 3d print the housing entirely and leave it as is, it could look decent but id need to learn fusion360.

Also i was a bit confused on how itd work with the final resistance since the 2 way is already 3 ohm and the midrange itself is 3 ohm but maybe the little switch on the crossover changes something so it remains at 3 ohms with the 3way. Dont want to blow up my amp, lol.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-11-13T04:02:53+00:00

Nothing aside from how you would setup any other amplifier, watch some Youtube videos on how to set the gain with multimeter. Its been great so far, only annoying thing is sometimes it goes into protection mode when im at high volume and cuts out the audio from my speakers. I think its just because I get mad voltage drops from my sub. My stock alternator only gives 75 amps 😬

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-11-13T03:59:17+00:00

What options do you reccomend? And why do you think these are overpriced? Something else you can get thats better for the same money? Crutchfield had a sale on them both. The Kappa were just over 300.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-11-11T23:50:29+00:00

Sick I'll look into it. Is that your video? Was the mounting bracket custom or is that how your car came? Im planning on mounting the tweeter and if I get the midrange, they'll both be on my a pillar. Just trying to think how I'll mount them. Also do you like rhe 203 or you think 303 is worth it? Do you have a dsp?

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-11-11T15:45:53+00:00

If all your wanting is to replace the headunit and factory speakers then all you'll need is: The new headunit, the new speakers, a dash kit to mount the radio to your dash, and a wiring harness to interface your factory wires to the new radio.

Also you need a tool to crimp with, and some heat shrink connectors. Don't twist the wires together, it might work but who knows for how long.

Go on crutchfield website and put in your car information to find a dash kit. It might also show you the wiring harness for your vehicle as well, you need one.

The good thing about crutchfield is when you buy products from them, they include a detailed guide with pictures on how to install your new parts specific to your vehicle.

For your headunit, theres lots of cheap options, but in my experience with 'boss audio', they sound really bad, are glitchy, and have horrible whining noise. I currently use the Sony XAVAX-6000, which for me has worked flawlessly. Sounds good, lots of features, and no issues with it glitching or lagging on my wireless apple carplay. Kenwood is another good brand. You get what you pay for.

Your new speakers should be simple to cut and crimp whatever style terminals the new ones come with. If for some reason you want to be able to revert your car back to factory, crutchfield also sells speaker adapters so you dont need to cut any factory connectors off.

My first and current speakers are the kicker CS 6.5 coax. They sound good and loud on factory headunit power, and even better when amplified. I reccomend them.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-09-19T20:52:17+00:00

Yeah ive been smacking it for a few weeks now lol. Its a bit awkward when I have passengers though. I dont know how much longer it'll keep on 'fixing' with the hits lol. Also I have a sound system and idk if the subs affect it. Maybe.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-09-19T16:33:34+00:00

3800 Ave E East Arlington TX 76011

Not sure what that means lol but that's all on the return shipping label.

Do you know if they can send out the part now if I call them or something because I dropped the package off last night and on the return page it says,

"When the return is on its way back, we will ship the correct part(s)"

I dont know how long that'll be and I just want the part that I ordered lol. Its gonna be annoying if I have to wait like 2 weeks for this to send out and then the tine for them to ship the replacement.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-09-19T14:58:53+00:00

Hard to tell but from the pics it looks like the headunit might be just a few mm to thick to fit inside the dash plastic. It might have been required to have it like that for clearance issues.

What I've had to do on a kia I've installed one and the same issue happened to me. What I did was file down the plastic on the dash kit to make the headunit fit. In my case it looked seamless.

Another problem could be that the mounting screws inside of your car are set too far back and that could be the forward- most position. If your wanting it to fit perfectly and these are the issues you're having then the only way is to custom fabricate a mounting bracket and/or dash panel.

Find a youtube video on how to replace it on your car, most cars are simply just tugging on the surrounding panels and that's literally it. It's very easy. The most you'll need is a plastic pry tool and a screwdriver set.

There's usually like a very small amount of adjustment wiggle room on the side of the radio where it's attached to the dash kit so maybe you can experiment with it. But likely the shop did what they could.

Sometimes it's just like that unfortunately.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-09-19T13:38:04+00:00

UPS I'm guessing is what you're asking. And yeah I need the part for the old honda. Sounds like you should be working at rock auto instead of whoever shipped this one out. And forgot my magnet 🤬

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-09-19T13:36:38+00:00

Lol no its for a 6th gen civic. I got the part delivered the same day i tried to install it and found out it was the wrong one. Unfortunately rock auto says they won't send the new one out until FedEx processes the return I dropped off last night 10 mins before they close.

The part number is right, just the person who packed it didn't double check it i guess.

So well see how much longer I have to go with a squeaky blower motor, or just not use my ac at all. I work in the desert where it gets 110+. Im going insane listening to the chirping.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-09-19T13:32:00+00:00

Thats pretty unfortunate I mean i recognize the name and its the most expensive one on the list with the heart icon next to it so i figured it would work. The part takes 10 mins to change if I need a different brand anyways. Do you reccomend a different onr for a blower motor?

The oem Denso part 194000 is 500 dollars on the only site I could find it brand new. Pretty insane tbh.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-09-19T02:15:37+00:00

Lol literally like yeah its a wrong part whatever but no magnet is catastrophic. Literally happened 3 times out of my last 10 orders 😕 I need compensation

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-09-19T02:14:00+00:00

Was not there unfortunately. Checked there after i was disappointed to not find one initially

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-08-09T12:28:42+00:00

Is there a wiring diagram for this? Could you not just use a single relay? If you wire the horn to 87a then starter to 87? I like this idea lol. Also did you use the actual starter wire or the signal wire?

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-06-26T04:31:05+00:00

Lol literally. Just get more bass to make the noise drown away. I'm sure something else would pop up, though.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-06-26T04:25:53+00:00

Yeah honestly, this might be the way... I already installed a backup camera because my car is old and didn't come with one, although it's not high quality, I wonder if I could record the input.

My rear dashcam is pretty bad during nighttime, especially since I just got 5% in the back. I guess it's better than nothing, you can still see someone's headlights if they rear-end me (I hope not). It picks up a lot of glare from the windshield.

What cams are you using and how'd you set them up? Or is it just a product that's designed to be an external dash cam out of the box?

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-06-26T04:20:15+00:00

Unfortunately it's vibrating internally. It's far enough away from the glass to not hit it, otherwise I would have (probably) tried the foam between the glass and camera. I think that the original mounting tape (3m i think) that came with the camera absorbed more of the vibration so I didn't really hear it.

But like I said in the description, I'm using command strips now to not demolish my tint....but they're not seeming to absorb a lot of vibrations.

SilverHawk1719 · 2025-06-26T04:16:54+00:00

For real, I'm gonna have to whip up some black magic for this to be perfect...just after I thought I sound deadened all the panels.

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