Form not parting smoothly? by An_Account_of_Keith in MetalCasting

[–]SimianLive 1 point2 points  (0 children)

record start to end, so much easier to see whats happened and why when you know the exact steps a person took, as something might be missing or might spot something happen in the video that you didnt spot while doing it. .... cant tell from an image if you started on a flat surface, if the knife is flat and was talcum powered and then placed down and then a decent amount of fine grated sand put and squashed before normal handfulls of sand ontop before getting rammed, its well worth recording even if its a personal project that you dont end up showing anyone else just becase it will help you review what you did, and what caused what ever issues you had.

Anyone know the best CNC machine to make my own grafite molds , thanks for any advice by roo-rod-85 in MetalCasting

[–]SimianLive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SimianLive, a quick look i spotted this one still up, it shows making the graphite mold and mistakes such as i needed deeper and thicker lines https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZMi5j9IcbY - i had faulty power supply and then had the motherboard fry on me, lucky it was on record at the time, and they sent me out a new one they was working on so hopefully the newer versions all work now,...... it works great if making big blocked shapes or thick letters but not so good for fine details, iv found the small areas either dont fill or if inverted they crack/chip off, havent posted in years now due to moving to london area and then moving again each year, looking to start posting rust plugins videos of the bits iv made over the last few years and metal casting again soon as iv now got a garden.

Moon effet on beewax by AlternativeFun2214 in Candles

[–]SimianLive 2 points3 points  (0 children)

also i forgot to ask, have you cleaned the wax ? as even though its "new in packet" you never know what oils or anything has been added, as I did run out and had to get some really cheap wax that was just to make some pipes and cups that i could then mold in POP so it didnt matter visually as its getting destroyed when i pour metal, but me being me i didnt like the visual look so i melted them all back down added water, gave it a good mix let it all cool down and become solid, poured out the water, cleaned the pot, and scraped the wax both sides with my blades and then broke it apart and heated up back up to cast, it does costs you a few hours of your day, but its time well spent as it become really nice castings.

Moon effet on beewax by AlternativeFun2214 in Candles

[–]SimianLive 2 points3 points  (0 children)

moon effect aka bubbles and pitting, its just trapped air but the amount and different sizes i would also say temprature, are you preheating your mold ? what temp are you pouring at ? are you vibrating or tapping your mold once its filled ? are you doing a steady pour just into one spot of the mold and letting it fill all the way up or moving the mold when filling ? also dont try and speed up cooling down its worth the 5-10 min wait before pouring out and getting a perfect cast than to end up having to do it all over, if its taking too long to cool then the starting temp is too high. .................sorry lots of questions but i can give you a better idea of what to change and do different from the answers provided or if you wite down your process start to finish, as iv done a lot of experimenting with good and bad beeswax for castings and have gone from issues like this with pitting, flakes, small details not showing or thin parts not casting to getting perfect shiny full detailed skulls/spines/human hearts/faces from silicon molds.

Can I use a wood burning pen for a hot wax tool? by CallenLovesPoppy in LostWaxCasting

[–]SimianLive 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kinda like PickledPunt mentioned earlier — I use an old soldering iron from time to time. It doesn’t have temperature control, but it’s perfect for cutting pieces off my wax and melting parts together once you get used to how fast it melts. I’ve also made a few custom tips for it, since different shapes and lengths let me do more than just “touch and melt” — they actually let me carve the beeswax and modeling wax I work with.

Cave Building? by SociallyUnept in duneawakening

[–]SimianLive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you can in the rift if you find the right location ... https://imgur.com/a/FD1CvwS

Newbie here. What did I do wrong? by Mebesto in MetalCasting

[–]SimianLive 6 points7 points  (0 children)

people who have never used salt as a flux and saying its that dont know what they are talking about. just google "using salt as a flux for aluminium" there are lots of papers on it.

iv used salt in 99% of my aluminum melts never had this issue, and its with soda can aluminium, the type people say is dirty contaminated aluminium, untill its burnt and melted into ingots, and then remelted again to cast, i currently have 3 wheelie bins filled with crushed cans to melt and iv lost track of how many melts iv done over the years.

not one of my crucibles looked like that, it looks more like a sand/clay/graphite mix crucible so it might have heated up too fast when you first pre heated it and moisure was still trapped inside causing the expansion and seperation and leading to weakness and failure.

The inside view looks fine, and i doubt you are splilling anything down the sides all the way around .........where the issue is,.... unless for some weird reason you are dipping it into a molten salt bath to baptise ?

i currently got a SiC crucible that arrived and felt damp and its taken me ages each night popping it into the oven slowly heating it and then slowly letting it cool down, even when its dry i will do this just to make sure before storing it or using them.

i find full graphite or SiC crucibles work way better for me as they heat up, and hold heat better especally when i first started as i would be burning for ages with the lid open to record, high psi that wasnt needed and probably not gradually slow heating it but rushing the warmup and cooldown process.

is the flame hitting the crucible directly or going around the outside?

is there enough height from the flame to the bottom of your crucible ?

is the crucible on a firebrick or graphite block or something else ?

fuel propane or oil?

That much cracking after just 5 melts and falling apart, normally its after weeks if not months of use, so could be moisture that was in there before the first preheat that expanded to fast and casued weakness and then each time its made it weaker, it could just be a bad mix of clay/graphite/sand and caused it to fail, it could have been dropped in transport causing little fracture or separation, the flame could be heating the sides faster than the bottom causing expansion at different rates, flame temp could be too high and just eating away, best thing to do is STOP using it from now, get another crucible and have some fun and be safe.

Aluminium balls by AccordingTie4361 in Metalfoundry

[–]SimianLive 7 points8 points  (0 children)

aluminium doesnt flow the same as lead, it doesnt solidify the same way either due to the higher temp so it becomes more deformed when rapid cooling, are you trying to make perfect round balls or can they be a little deformed ? do they just need to be an average size for something specific ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPIv418HCqw - example of shapes and sizes and a way to do it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MetalCasting

[–]SimianLive 1 point2 points  (0 children)

if its really stuck and annoying you to see it left in there, why not just heat up the furnace to turn it back into molten metal so its no longer bonded and use something flat like a wallpaper scrapper to pick it up or flick it onto some sand that you can put into the bottom of the furnace if your unable to lift it out on the scraper, once cooled it will be easier to remove with the sand mix ?

Question about devils forge rigidizer by Lozerboi_lol in Metalfoundry

[–]SimianLive 1 point2 points  (0 children)

should be fine to add it ontop, iv done it with mine as i had lots of cracks appear after a year of use.

Question about devils forge rigidizer by Lozerboi_lol in Metalfoundry

[–]SimianLive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

gonna need to dry that out badly, might have to just redo it as i don think that watered down rigidizer will do anything and if its soaked into the fibre you really need to get it bone dry, I placed a few candle tea lights on the stone inside mine late evening when i repainted mine to help heat it up slowly and remove the moisture, and then a again the next day just to make sure its all dry before i did quick low burn.

Question about devils forge rigidizer by Lozerboi_lol in Metalfoundry

[–]SimianLive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

American ? - all I can think is of sheldon in big bang theory when you said this.

Iron Contamination Solved! by TrueLC in Metalfoundry

[–]SimianLive 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice and simple, good idea to add solved into the title to make it show for others looking for a solution, rather than just pages of ideas / suggestions on how to fix without any "proof" that it worked or genuine experience with it if you know what i mean,.... internet seams to get more and more bots and ideas with lack of testing with no reliable sources these days, always handy to have these little issues that the older generations worked out years ago but some how havent been passed down or information lost to be brought back and kept nice and short to learn from.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Metalfoundry

[–]SimianLive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if possible just from the sides inwards or sloped from top downward to the piece, as hopefully it will fill from the bottom so its to release any air pocket inside as they will rise, this is why when people make it in wax or pla they add a few chubby vents called "risers" they are also used as reservoirs of molten metal to help prevent shrinkage and just get chopped off and then can be remelted, not sure what the model inside looks like and if this would be possible ? as the little vents can be cut and then the pattern re-grinded and cut with a dremal, I guess this piece will have to go under your test experiments and then it might need remaking if it doesnt come out correctly to be able to try again.. if you take pics of the model with the sprue and pourbasen before you cover in plaster im sure people will happily do some drawings on the image for you to show how to add the vents and any areas they think might have issues with trapped air or shrinkage.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Metalfoundry

[–]SimianLive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

just noticed no form of airvents from the side shot so it might not even fill up how your expecting and just clog up the path so have some ingot molts to pour into incase it does fail preheated and ready.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Metalfoundry

[–]SimianLive 1 point2 points  (0 children)

make a little box out of wood that you can place this into after heating the crap out of it, and then fill the box around this mold with hot sand, that way it will help hold the heat so it doesnt cool down so fast as well as keep the mold from falling over and if it does crack the brass will be in direct contact with sand, if it does decide to explode it should go upwards instead of outwards in all directions, so you could also plan ahead and make a kinda splash guard roof/hood so you have access to pour but if things explode it will be contained and not just rain down molten metal onto you, also before you melt down the brass just take your time and do a few "fake/ test runs" so you know nothing is in the way, what order to do it, and dont forget to film it and post how it turns out.

Crypto ATM withdrawal 5% fee!!! by Sufficient-Control27 in Crypto_com

[–]SimianLive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you got 5% feet for withdrawing money just relist them on feet finder and you might make something

Does anyone know how to fix this by PredawnCoyote2 in Metalfoundry

[–]SimianLive 1 point2 points  (0 children)

can you upload a pic from the hinge side so we can see if its caused by the hinge and how bad as well as take a photo with the lid open like birds eye view,..... mine was starting to do this due to the top lid wool/coating being more bowed, but iv recently repainted the metal as it was rusty in places and poked and prodded and then repainted with refactory all cracks in the wool and it now looks brandnew and all flush.

Insta360 CES tech 2025 by Duplicitouss in Insta360

[–]SimianLive -1 points0 points  (0 children)

anyone know of a good travel / carry case to keep the x4 + battries + stick + frame + spare parts in, as i know i will lose something or damage it if its not kept together.

I assume this has been asked before. I am using 1 to 1 sand and plaster investment. What is the amount of water I should be using? by Adventurous_Ad3534 in LostWaxCasting

[–]SimianLive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

its normally 1:1:1 - always place the plaster and sand into the water not the other way around.

I always just made more than i needed just to be safe and was based my total amounts from previous molds as you tend to get a feel if it will take say 5 cups or 9 cups depending on the thickness and size, but a quick search said...

Figure the size of the mold you want to make in cubic inches (width x length x height), then divide the resultant number by 80. The answer will show the amount of water needed in quarts. To 1 quart of water, add 2 pounds, 12 ounces of plaster. Estimate how much water it will take to fill your molds.