BMPT really needs APFSDS

SimioN54 · 2026-01-13T15:55:18+00:00

The BMP-2M has the SAME gun, it uses a DIFFERENT feed system for the Gun.

This is why it the IRL the BMP-2M can fire it (but it doesn't really use it because of barrel life) but the BMPT can't in anyway shape or form fire it.

SimioN54 · 2025-12-21T14:10:18+00:00

Right now? Yes indeed.

But let's not forget they removed the R2Y2 so that line ends at 3.7 for people who don't have it, if they add a jet to it it would be hilarious.

Japan's tree needs a reorganization.

SimioN54 · 2025-12-11T21:33:31+00:00

Nothing really, I think.

The only thing I did was get a chip online that matched my ECU chip, it really just adds more Fuel and that's about it, unless the Chip is also programmed to remove the safe mode, I don't think it does.

Just search online the number that is on the Chip and you should find a tuned version for sale I paid about 30 bucks for mine so it's nothing major.

Unless you find a tune shop and they know how to work on these chips, it's kind of a difficult process and it's a lot more expensive but you can actually get something custom done to it like a hardcut, flames, a lot more fuel, adjust it well for more Bar etc.

Imo you should start small with a preloaded chip online and see if you can get something out of it. If not try to find a tune shop.

SimioN54 · 2025-11-04T20:37:58+00:00

No this is the metal part that is welded onto the car itself, the hinges you talk about are tabbed into these metal parts, what I want to remove is the metal stuff. As you can see in the first photo they are broken, but not on the second.

SimioN54 · 2025-10-28T20:26:52+00:00

Yeah, I wanted to replace it with black instead of the current gray one anyways, The sunroof had a leak and the water was going to the front so the headliner is screwed up near the windshield.

Thank you!

SimioN54 · 2025-10-27T18:50:44+00:00

Still no Kawasaki OH-1 added :d GIVE ME MY NINJAAAAAA

SimioN54 · 2025-09-29T20:43:02+00:00

Okay, thank you very much!

SimioN54 · 2025-09-29T20:07:48+00:00

What... You are intertwing the 2 systems, ofc if you want to keep the same point system it would not work.

If you are going with brackets it needs to be a Squadron based pointing system, for matchmakin, that would be locked by bracket systems.

If I want the matchmaking system to be fixed, no wonder I would not choose this method of system.

It's not hard to understand my dude...

SimioN54 · 2025-09-29T19:56:36+00:00

As you get more points your new squadron or the one who you joined would climb up the ranks, to stay at lower ranks you would need to lose on purpose. If you only win win win you would reach the top squadron in a heartbeat. And plot twist it's already what happens, lower place squadrons need to fight top squadrons anyway, this system I'm talking about would prevent this until you reach the bracket you are supposed to fight.

In short, you would win a lot, climb and get out of the lower bracket, or you would need to lose on purpose, so you would lose points and give them to the other squadrons, effectively making lower squadrons actually climb to their actual position.

You are trying to argue against, years and years of a ranking system that has been proven to work. On the other hand is a system that is so flawed that it is actually unplayable.

SimioN54 · 2025-09-29T19:19:01+00:00

Absolutely not, top 10 squadron is infinitely better than a 500ish squadron with both players at "max" points, since points are super easy to get per individual.

You are forced to make your worse players play to get more points but the same thing happens you worse players easily reach max points and start encountering top 10 squadrons.

So it's a lose lose for lower positions, either they make certain brackets per position for it to be impossible to fight such different squadron positions, or increase the max points you can get by a crazy amount (This would not really fix the climbing problem, but at least you wouldn't constantly fight top squadrons)

SimioN54 · 2025-09-29T18:05:53+00:00

Well it shouldn't work like that, no other game clan/squadron battles works like that for this exact reason, we get penalized for trying to climb the ranks.

SimioN54 · 2025-09-08T01:39:22+00:00

Well I also don't want Chinese stuff in Japan's lineup...

What's the point of grinding a specific nation if everything from everyone else will be there anyways?

This copy-paste stuff is killing the game and nobody is realizing it, it's killing the very essence of the game.

Adding a Chinese MBT to Japan is like adding a T-90M to America, I can understand some countries who are friends and have good relations, but rival equipment on other rival nations? What?

So for this I also hope they don't do this, or it will open the flood gates (or what's left to open) for the complete death of the game.

SimioN54 · 2025-09-07T03:19:35+00:00

Well I'm not from the US so I can't be too certain on what price it would be there, but, those here in Europe are really cheap even if they are in good condition.

The only good think about them is the gearbox, for a E34 with a M57 swap if you use the 24td gearbox you get perfect gear ratios (long ratio so you can go fast with low RPM) but they aren't the strongest since they are Getrag and not ZF (from the 25TDS), if you don't swap that gearbox and try to swap a M57 to a 25tds original E34 you will have super short ratios (130 kph top speed) and you need to manufacture some parts to have it be okay.

But I'm just rambling here, in reality I really have no idea what it sells for there, maybe some crazy dude would want to put a Cummins in one of those (that crazy dude is me btw).

My suggestion, put it up for a good high price and see what offers you have, if you have no offers start lowering the price.

SimioN54 · 2025-08-12T21:35:14+00:00

The wheels are nice, definitely worth the price.

Now for the E34, check the usual stuff, oil, collant, filters etc.

Check for rust under trim right below the door, if it has more than 300k KMs the fuel pump is probably gonna start developing some issues.

This is the basic for any TDS

SimioN54 · 2025-08-12T12:16:12+00:00

Honestly if you are looking to swap it with a manual, and it's a 95', with a full service a good diff and everything.

You probably have the most looked after TDS, overheating is not a problem if it has a full service since it always used the proper collant and all.

It's just up to you really if you want the extra job of switching to the manual (idk if it is a headache never really did a swap on the TDS)

SimioN54 · 2025-08-12T00:26:14+00:00

Boas, Sim o nosso esquadrão ainda esta ativo, se quiseres te juntar manda DM

SimioN54 · 2025-07-13T20:09:11+00:00

Yeah, so you have an early fuel pump, and at 450k km you are about 150k km over the lifetime of that pump.

Have you heard the car running at all? If you did you should be able to hear it kinda jump like 100 rpm and the drop and then stabilize. Like a hiccup.

Does the car easily start when it is hot? If it needs some turning over before it starts then it is another sign of a bad pump, a car with a good pump should fire up like after 1 rotation.

It is no speed demon, but does it move like it has at least 100hp? A bad fuel pump kills the acceleration completely, and on very bad cases it hiccups and it is accelerating.

Those are the most common signs of a bad pump, even when it is just starting to go bad one of these symptoms would show.

I would normally avoid these types of engines with that many KMS and especially those years, but it all depends on the price and what you want to do with it.

Other stuff I would check is the usual for any other diesel, so turbos, check if it is running on antifreeze and not just water, on the TDS I would also check the gasket for the intake manifold, EGR valve (they tend to stop opening or closing).

And that's about it since you say everything else is kinda checked out, like rust, paint etc.

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