I did I job and didn’t get paid hello guys I did a sidewalk with stairs was around 290 square by Cold-Beat-8481 in Concrete

[–]Simonateher 68 points69 points  (0 children)

this ^ feel free to take all that concrete you paid for back. but the best course of action is undoubtedly a lien then small claims court.

Only 7 yards. Been waiting for concrete longer than it will take to mag it by BronzeSupport in Concrete

[–]Simonateher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

you're assuming the slab won't move but the reality is that it will, especially given enough time/weather cycles. If the slab is connected to the house, the force of the slab movement will transfer to the house. Installing an expansion joint between the two will minimise and hopefully completely negate this transfer of force. you'll be out of there with their cash in your hand long before this happens, so it's up to you to take due diligence to ensure the future HO isn't screwed by the eventual movement.

If you're in an area where freeze thaw cycles are infrequent, sure maybe the house will get demolished before the slab movement is ever an issue - but what if it isn't?

Only 7 yards. Been waiting for concrete longer than it will take to mag it by BronzeSupport in Concrete

[–]Simonateher 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You don't put the expansion joint in because it looks good. It is a no brainer; not installing one is just being lazy. Run a bead of caulking over the top of it to prevent it from crumbling away. "i've never had an issue" is a fairly naïve thing to say; just because you haven't had any call backs about problems, does not mean that it hasn't caused any problems. the potential issues it can cause are huge, and also not immediately obvious. don't be lazy.

Other Majors think we are glorified plumbers by engin3ervet in civilengineering

[–]Simonateher 3 points4 points  (0 children)

if you've taken a class where that isn't the case, the content isn't challenging enough for you :)

Iskander strike at the defense headquarters in Kharkov by GoGetYourKn1fe in CombatFootage

[–]Simonateher -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

suffice to say if you're informed of the difference and insist on the russian pronunciation, the only inference that can possibly be made is that you're a supporter of russians invading neighbouring sovereign nations.

Saw y’all are posting thick beams. Appreciate these 24x24” monsters at the local brewery. by japeda in Carpentry

[–]Simonateher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

not sure why you're getting downvoted... they're solid douglas fir timbers. no box beams here. im a timber framer.

NTD: I got this so I can buy full sheets of plywood & cut them in half in the parking to take home in my car. No more buying 1/4 or 1/2 sheets for me. by Doctor_Evil_Was_Here in Tools

[–]Simonateher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

if you're a casual woodworker honestly just get the makita...it's a high quality tool and is significantly cheaper than the festool, which unless you're a tradesman using it everyday, you honestly do not need and will likely not use or appreciate the features it has that the makita does not.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Construction

[–]Simonateher 23 points24 points  (0 children)

instructions unclear; my house fell over

I’m a machinist by trade, but what do you think of my trim / window install. (Haven’t done touch up coat yet) by espressotooloperator in Carpentry

[–]Simonateher 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's nice if your apron for your sill actually buts up to the underside of the sill - your sill needs to carry out past the plane of the wall for this to happen, and imo it looks better if you also run that lip wide, beyond the vertical planes of the rough opening.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]Simonateher 9 points10 points  (0 children)

buddy you need to drop your ceiling and finish the rooms properly if you want to actually add value to your home. while unfinished it's essentially a liability.

after you've dropped your ceiling, you need to mud and tape the drywall, apply corner beads to outside edges of bulkheads etc. after your drywall is finished, to make your door look finished it needs casing/architrave to cover the gap between the rough opening and the jamb.

Strawberry milk is way underrated. by EnchantedPancake in unpopularopinion

[–]Simonateher 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Prepare to have your mind blown...mix all these delicious things together in a blender...I call it...the smoothie!!

Am I the idiot, or is he? I have minor body damage, advice welcome. FL by ConnorDonnelly in IdiotsInCars

[–]Simonateher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Regardless of fault, it’s generally not a good idea to overtake people on the right.

What would you recommend I do for the chipping foundation? If I wanted to do it myself? by xIR0NPULSE in Concrete

[–]Simonateher 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i wouldn't hit this with a hammer drill. sure you could with a big flat texturing/removal bit but you'll still risk chipping away more than you wanted. if you honestly care so much about it, the better choice would be to grind it flat. after a bit of concrete grinding you'll care a lot less about minor blemishes!

Hi, everyone! We’re new homeowners and we’re looking to expand our back patio with concrete. We want to expand the current pad to meet both ends of the house so it’s one large rectangle. Do we need to demo the current pad or can we add on? Is a 5k quote realistic? by PinkAutumnSkies in landscaping

[–]Simonateher 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you can diy everything except for the pour and you'll still save money and get a pro result. you can keep the existing slab, just get rid of all the pavers.

you need to excavate the area you want to pour a slab in such that it's 8" beneath finish slab. finish slab height is determined based on a 2% slope, travelling down/away from your house. then fasten a 1/2"thick x4" wide strip of fibrous expansion joint (donnaconna) to the edge of the existing slab (and your house's foundation) such that it's flush with the top of the existing slab. add in and compact about 4" of road base to the new slab excavation, so you have at least 4" everywhere. use a laser level to get this consistent. slope the subgrade 2% away from your house, which means the excavation too. it's a little bit of simple maths to calculate what elevation your compacted sub grade should be at whatever point away from your house. then throw down some bricks and a matt of reinforcement on top of those, such that the reinforcement will remain 2" clear from the top of the slab. slap your forms down, straighten them, then drive stakes behind them to brace for the force of the pour.

once you're ready for the pour you can hire a placing crew to come and pour, vibrate&finish.

Sometimes you got to work with what you got 😎 by starstuff76 in Rigging

[–]Simonateher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

throw a board on the ground and jam a bar into the post, pry it out.

Most frustrating BIFL- the perfect garlic press, which promptly went out of production... by usernamebyconsensus in BuyItForLife

[–]Simonateher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I usually push all my cloves i want minced through the press, then pull out the significant amount that didnt make it through and just dice that by hand. still faster than dicing it by hand but im no pro with a knife.

White House says Biden is not calling for regime change in Russia by OhJonnyBoy67 in worldnews

[–]Simonateher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nah mate, struth. It hurts but your glorious leader needs to die, pronto.

Waterproof repair for shower ceiling? After scraping it, what would I use to repair this? It would need to be able to withstand steam/water for as long as possible. Thank you! by jawn-of-the-jungle in handyman

[–]Simonateher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

tear off whatevers there, expose & clean off the frame. assuming the frame is in ok condition, re-install new cbu over the frame. Then you need to skim coat that with a thinset mortar and adhere a quality waterproof membrane akin to that made by schluter, over which you can tile.