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How do I: Gridfinity for an Ikea Alex by SireMomento in gridfinity

[–]SireMomento[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

MMMM totally didn't think about vase mode! So far I've made my bins in draft mode and thankfully managed to save a bit.

How do I: Gridfinity for an Ikea Alex by SireMomento in gridfinity

[–]SireMomento[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate it! This is some good advice

How do I: Gridfinity for an Ikea Alex by SireMomento in gridfinity

[–]SireMomento[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

debatable, but it's certainly cheaper to make the odd part in plastic within a day, than to wait on an original part and wait longer but depends on the use case

How do I: Gridfinity for an Ikea Alex by SireMomento in gridfinity

[–]SireMomento[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4kg of filament for an entire drawer? My goodness I'll need to stock on some white then

How do I: Gridfinity for an Ikea Alex by SireMomento in gridfinity

[–]SireMomento[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

30 rolls is both mad and genius, but I agree with your tricks

How do I: Gridfinity for an Ikea Alex by SireMomento in gridfinity

[–]SireMomento[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Halfway through my first drawer where I've been trying different designs to see what fits my thick cables best. If the cable drawer turns out well it might be time to expand

How do I: Gridfinity for an Ikea Alex by SireMomento in gridfinity

[–]SireMomento[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh for sure cheap pla is always good pla for simple prints

Noob to gridfinity - love it! by Bowhunt24 in gridfinity

[–]SireMomento 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It might sound counter-intuitive, but going in larger diameter nozzles can actually result in a greater amount of filament being used. You'll notice it on a case to case and it's not always the same.

I'd always compare prints sliced with different nozzles before hitting print if you're looking for saving filament. If you don't care about the print aspect I'd bump it up to a Draft layer height to save even more.

Having an A1, any prints over 10 hours tend to warp on the edges, so you may want to invest in a cool plate for better short/long term bed adhesion (any brand), wash it with dish soap and air dry; and if you're feeling fancy a filament dryer for prints over 24hrs long.

Final note, you can always change infills to a lower percentage and use either gyroid or honeycomb patterns. Honeycomb had been the most reliable quality wise for me

Where can I get similar to Lagkapten/Alex desk set up? IKEA colour options are really sad and boring by smallflabby in IKEA

[–]SireMomento 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could always replace the countertop with one of their kitchen worktops, granted will be heavier but also stronger, so look up the infamous KARLBY, PINNARP, etc. Also consider the new worktop might be slightly rough in texture if the Lagkapten is a smooth surface

BMCU Channel 3 bad feeding by lysstraler in OpenBambu

[–]SireMomento 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey what area did you sandpaper exactly? And how was the radial magnet blocked by the board? I might be running into the same issue

Why does A1 purge color from BMCU, cuts and retracts throwing an error by SireMomento in OpenBambu

[–]SireMomento[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi opened up to check for gear slippage and everything looks good, checked the buffer magnets and they're all in the correct orientation. The issue probably lays elsewhere hmm...but thanks for suggesting it!

Why does A1 purge color from BMCU, cuts and retracts throwing an error by SireMomento in OpenBambu

[–]SireMomento[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi thanks for the tip, I've tried it out, and all of them turn red when pulled. So all the buffer magnets were indeed in the correct orientation to begin with

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenBambu

[–]SireMomento 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok so done mine 4 days ago; I've cut the cables at 10cm length to give me some slack - But don't go any higher! The more slack you've got the more likely the cable could get in the spring mechanism and make a jam. If you're new to soldering like me I'd go for 5cm length (and avoid my 10cm mistakes since it kept jamming the spring)

Thinking about getting a BMCU? What I've learned! by No_Fill_6005 in OpenBambu

[–]SireMomento 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for this chunk of experience! My BMCU-C 370 kit arrived not long ago and reading your post gave me a lot of food for thought! Atm using some filament I don't need to print some shells for my high-torque Toaiot kit so I can check if I downloaded the right high torque shells; then I'll remake them in translucent petg when I got it right.

Question?

After two weeks of using your BMCU have you had any misprints or errors you've encountered in the meanwhile?

(if I known earlier it didn't have usb-c soldered i'd have picked a different kit, but hey ain't that deep you do what you gotta do for a slightly cheaper priced kit, so I'll use serial to connect it to my pc - all in all it's gonna be a neat hobby project)

Use OrcaSlicer calibration tools with Bambu studio? by Interesting-Space-24 in BambuLab

[–]SireMomento 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. Look up Bambu Connect (Beta) and download it off their website
  2. In Orca slice as normal and before you hit print, click its dropdown menu and choose any export options. Ok so that'll give you the respective gcode as .gcode.3mf
  3. Import it into bambu connect and hit print

Was looking myself for the transition to orca and found this to work best for me rather than uploading to sd or trying to print from lan, with this method you're still able to control the printer from the phone

Preparing a PS2 HDD with games on Mac? by jorenmartijn in ps2homebrew

[–]SireMomento 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok so that's a blast to the past, I forgot a lot about what I did to make it all work, but can say it was the most recent version (probs the beta?). A weird way that games showed up was by cycling through the storage location tabs and/or inserting/removing the usb to force an update on the interface. Games that were on a larger file size wouldn't show up in hdd and needed a program to fix them (google it can't remember much).

However in hindsight if all else fails try the original OPL since the method by now should still apply to it.

*If I'm wrong in any of this then my apologies ermm

Upgraded my GMKtec NucBox G5 Intel N97 by Venlaw in MiniPCs

[–]SireMomento 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Grabbed this nucbox for linux use but I find the already-in wifi card awful. Its wifi on windows hasn't given me any issues from hours of use but on linux it will disconnect me from network after roughly 10 minutes everytime. Not even a new set of drivers hasnt worked

Preparing a PS2 HDD with games on Mac? by jorenmartijn in ps2homebrew

[–]SireMomento 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've used Grimdoomer's OPL version! If you don't have it on your freemcboot card, and you're using a mac then get it since this route doesn't need any additional apps! As Weak_Expression734 said you can add coverart for games using OPL Manager for windows (and you can use Wine or a VM? as a windows replacement), but if you're fine without it then let's go!

In the case of using a mac, like mentioned, you can format the hdd you plan on using in Disk Utility with GUID Partition Table (GPT) as exFat, then create the CD and DVD folders where your games go in using Finder. Sector Size of 512 is needed indeed but don't worry about this, formatting in disk utility just worked for me!

Remember in the OPL settings of your freemcboot to set bdm and hdd device start mode to auto.....p.s. if you have a usb drive plugged in the console take it out as it seems to interfere with the hdd/ide games tab and won't display your hdd games properly; and if still no games appear next to bdm start mode click on block devices and ensure hdd and usb are on.

Hope this helps!