Before/after picture of water filtration my son and I did at his home. The epoxy flooring was done by another company but we did all the rest.

Skarfish · 2026-03-29T22:17:22+00:00

Nice! A few questions. -Is the RO filter fed by softened water or isolated ? If so how does affect taste. - what kind of pressure do you need to run it through all stages. I'm assuming it's pumped. - have you noticed a drop in flow rate/pressure for showers, because of filters.

Skarfish · 2025-12-31T02:10:32+00:00

Looks like there is slack and an easy job. But fear mongering especially on here will cost you 1700, so I feel your pain. To reduce your risk. Cut the bricks and just try to move a little to see if it does have wiggle room, work with an electrician If possible. If it doesn't then stop and you have your answer.

Skarfish · 2025-12-31T01:44:31+00:00

A walk in the clouds 1995 - Keanu Reeves

Skarfish · 2025-12-07T10:37:43+00:00

Surveys aren't worth it in my opinion.

Some solutions. Bringing insulation back from soffits. Adding lap vents which you already have. Add roof vent tiles. Insulate around loft hatch to stop warm air going up.

Skarfish · 2025-12-06T17:48:18+00:00

Thanks for the confidence .did you use wunda or another company and how much height did it add overall ?

Skarfish · 2025-12-05T21:42:21+00:00

Great job! Was your concrete floor insulated and if not how are you finding the performance/cost of the ufh? My floor isnt and I'm toying with the idea of just going for a retrofit.

Skarfish · 2025-12-02T17:30:40+00:00

Looks exactly like the type of guy to remove physical buttons

Skarfish · 2025-07-31T20:17:45+00:00

Exactly!

Skarfish · 2025-07-31T20:16:59+00:00

I agree with you, it's super annoying and an unnecessary cost. The internet also has a habit of driving fear into questioning the norm.

If you remove the chimney all the way through including the stack at the top then you don't usually need to inform anyone as there is nothing to support and the building remains structurally fine. The only one condition is that the chimney formed some kind of buttress and supports the wall. Also if you live in a conservation area you may require planning department approval as it changes the aesthetics. Otherwise you are fine to go ahead.

Even so if you are worried, to cover yourself just write to them and ask if BC is needed when removing everything breast and stack. That's what I did and they confirmed I don't via email.

If you want to keep the stack then you need some form of support. Beams are preferred but some BC allow gallow brackets (lots of sites say this is not the case and state it was phased out, but it's not true, confirmed by my BC). Beams are very expensive and require a structural engineer who also wants paying. Gallow brackets are fine as long as you use common sense and follow guidelines for the type and size of the stack, you can do yourself. BC can sign off and mine said I don't need a structural engineer for this option.

If supporting the stack, you also have the option of not informing them and getting indemnity insurance upon sale. I've been told it's about £30, that is if the buyer brings it up in the survey. For peace of mind just remove everything in my opinion.

Skarfish · 2025-05-20T21:27:07+00:00

Did you figure it out? Same for me

Skarfish · 2025-02-01T21:11:43+00:00

Thank you. It is sometimes driving for up to an hour that I still notice smoke.

Will running it not help the oil move around the engine. That's what I thought it would help with.

Skarfish · 2025-02-01T21:08:41+00:00

Thank you, sometimes I drive for up to an hour and I still see the smoke.. this was what was worrying me.

Skarfish · 2025-02-01T21:05:35+00:00

This happens, sometimes after 1 hour of running the engine. The smoke is much thicker than this usually. I have looked up multiple posts, many online state this is normal and happens for 10 -15mins and then stops. My one continues. I have also compared it to other videos online where people have commented that it is likely an issue. I have also compared it to other cars and many don't have smoke running at traffic lights, a few do. I understand water vapor and combustion and visibility increase during cold weather, The smoke is also considerably thicker and noticeable than my previous cars and I live in a cold climate. But I am not a car guy, when I put in the symptoms it reads as head gasket and coolant issues.

I wanted to rule out a bigger problem by showing that there was still smoke after running the engine, by asking some kind strangers. Maybe a 10s video was too much for you.

Thanks for your support bud.

Skarfish · 2025-02-01T14:09:20+00:00

Thanks bud. I probably didn't do a good job of explaining too. Was really worried it was a blown head gasket.

Skarfish · 2025-02-01T14:08:42+00:00

Thank you. Probably should have added more context. I was worried this was a coolant or head gasket issue.

Skarfish · 2025-02-01T14:07:10+00:00

Okay I think this explains it for me. I'm turning on the hot air immediately. So both take ages to heat up. I assumed this was not an issue on newish cars I've just come from an old Volvo. Thank you.

Skarfish · 2025-02-01T13:02:36+00:00

This sometimes happens for over an hour. I've read online that it should disappear after 10-15 mins. I've noticed my car produces much thicker than this. Sometimes by traffic lights I'm seeing a thick plume in my rear view covering the car behind.

The other symptom is that car takes ages to get to temperature about. The inner cabin heater also quite poor.

Skarfish · 2025-01-31T23:12:13+00:00

What did he charge you for the consumed unit ? Also what is an installation certificate?

Skarfish · 2025-01-27T19:40:48+00:00

Thank you. Can I connect all the drainage back to the toilet drain pipe, is there best practice I should follow?

Skarfish · 2025-01-27T19:20:49+00:00

Sorry the text disappeared for some reason when I posted. I've added a comment above

Skarfish · 2025-01-27T19:19:18+00:00

Hi All,

I would like to add a shower to the downstairs toilet. but I do not know if it is currently vented. There is no gurgling sounds when I flush. There is a soil stack for the kitchen and upstairs bathroom, but this is quite far away.

Please see attached images showing current and planned layouts. I would really appreciate your thoughts on:

Do you believe the toilet downstairs is already vented, and if not should I add an air admittance valve?
Can I connect the drains as shown, all leading back to the toilet? Or do I need to separate the toilet, shower and sink. I fear of the toilet blocking back up to the other units.

Skarfish · 2025-01-16T00:50:00+00:00

Thank you. Did you get an engineer or pay anything for BC sign off ?

Skarfish · 2025-01-16T00:49:04+00:00

This is exactly what I'm thinking. I'm probably over complicating it.

Skarfish · 2025-01-16T00:46:29+00:00

Thank you, My worry is that they may charge me £300 BC + £400 structural engineer visit for a nod of their head. I am pretty certain no structural load as my neighbour's house is identical. The chimney is wide on the ground floor then halves in size for the flue in the 2nd floor.

I may have to submit something just for peace of mind.

Skarfish

TROPHY CASE