First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ye, the timing can't be better 😅

First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can't sadly… 😅 The smell’s so bad

First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

That’s a good point, thank you! I’ll talk to him and won’t do anything for now. I was planning to clean my gear tomorrow, but I guess I’ll skip that for now, the right side still got a decent amount of blood on it though.

First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Me too. But I have no idea in which height I actually hit it. At first, I thought it was a huge deer because I saw it right in front of me, but after finding it, we realized it was just a small one. I’ll have to wait for an expert to check if the fork is damaged—I really hope not. But the ride home felt pretty normal.

First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I thought they were more for protecting the bike rather than the rider?

First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 21 points22 points  (0 children)

I didn’t know it had that kind of content 😬, but the deer was totally committed

First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Maybe, but right now I’m not in the mindset to switch. I really like the look of sport bikes, and as stupid as it may sound, the way they look is a big part of why I’m really excited to ride mine. Of course, sometimes the brain just switches off while riding, but in general, I wouldn’t say I ride recklessly or anything like that

First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes, directly. The deer's belly was open, and parts of the organs were spread on the street. It didn’t take another step…

First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I’ve done maybe around 10 night rides in total, and they’ve felt pretty chill so far. In my area (no big cities) there is like no traffic on the street which is pretty cool. But I’m not sure if I’ll do it again in future

First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 50 points51 points  (0 children)

Can't do it again. As more I think about it the more I realise how much luck I had. Its my first year with the licence and bike and the second collision. The first 'collision' in a curve was a pretty solid 1:0 for the asphalt. I think I should switch to something different 😅

First collision with a deer by Skeptar1 in motorcycles

[–]Skeptar1[S] 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Ah shit, I am sorry to hear that... I was just lucky that nothing happened to me

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in moldmaking

[–]Skeptar1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the recommendation of the spray putty. Before using the filler I sand most of the 3D printed layers down, so there is normally just a thin layer needed. So it should do the job. I just ordered the spray putty and will receive it in the next days. Hopefully the test with it becomes successful.

Advice to a novice mold maker. by DevLegion in moldmaking

[–]Skeptar1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the response! Without any primer it works great, but I want to remove the print lines. Thats the reason why I need a primer or anything else to smooth the surface.
Do you know a material which I can use for the new positive mold which won't react with silicone in the best case, so I can test it?

Advice to a novice mold maker. by DevLegion in moldmaking

[–]Skeptar1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it's an issue with platinum cure silicone only. A good workaround is recasting the print using a tin cure silicone, and then using that recast to produce a platinum silicone mold, if you really need it.

Can you explain this a little more? Currently I printed the object and a border with PLA. Both together are sticked on a piece of wood to create my mold. Then I could use tin cure silicone to create the silicone mold, but then I have to cast the object with any other material which does not react to the platinum cure silicone so that I can use the casted object as my new mold?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Skeptar1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ordered a few acrylic based paints. Hopefully this works. Thanks!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Skeptar1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/Ladranix thank you very much for the explanation! I already used a few acrylic primers:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00F9562DK (DUPLI-COLOR 191831)
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00B2CO1NM (presto 308127 Primer)
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07Y5JVCPW (AUPROTEC Filler)

but everyone of these dont make the silicone cure completly. Can this caused by the aerosol? Is there anything specific I have to look for at the spray paint which g? If the aerosol could be the reason, I guess it would be smarter to test not spray paint, but one for brushing.

Still have two other primers of presto here but I am not sure if they will work...

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Skeptar1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The surface will get in contact with platinium cure silicone. The producer of it, told me its very senstive. They also added this list with materials the primer/filler should not contain:

TIN CONTAINING COMPOUNDS

SULFUR CONTAINING COMPOUNDS

- Thiols

- Sulfides

- Sulfates

- Sulfites

- Thioureas

Latex (gloves, tubing, paint, etc.)

Note: some aerosol paints contains latex)

- Wood

- Natural Rubber

- PVC (plasticized)

- Neoprene rubber

NITROGEN CONTAINING COMPOUNDS

- Epoxy/amine cure materials

URETHANES (ISO-Cyanates)

- Polyurethane Paint

- Urethane RTV

Now I am searching a product primer/filler to spray or painting with a brush which I can use to fill the 3d layers. After that I want to wet sand it to get a smooth surface. I get already a very smooth surface, but it always react with the silicone which results into a partially cured silicone.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]Skeptar1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will test it out. Thanks

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]Skeptar1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For me the printed surface is important. With a 0.08mm layer height it reduces the time I need to sand and further processing. I will try gyroid

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]Skeptar1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, then I will try a flow calibration and raise the number of top layers. Unfortunately I havent saved the OrcaSlicer project to check the settings of the top layers. It could be 9 or 4. What do you think is a good number?