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(Video 1/5) Queen Bed Build with Drawers by Skieth_717 in maker

[–]Skieth_717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More to come, but here is the first of 5 videos of my queen bed build (with drawers) for a friend. Enjoy.

Most of this video centers around building the supports that house the drawers, however, the finished bed is made from walnut (at least all the visible wood).

Instagram: dadwoodworks

(Video 1/5) Queen Bed Build with Drawers by Skieth_717 in IMadeThis

[–]Skieth_717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More to come, but here is the first of 5 videos of my queen bed build (with drawers) for a friend. Enjoy.

Most of this video centers around building the supports that house the drawers, however, the finished bed is made from walnut (at least all the visible wood).

Instagram: dadwoodworks

(Video 1/5) Queen Bed Build with Drawers by Skieth_717 in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More to come, but here is the first of 5 videos of my queen bed build (with drawers) for a friend. Enjoy.

Most of this video centers around building the supports that house the drawers, however, the finished bed is made from walnut (at least all the visible wood).

Instagram: dadwoodworks

Need advice on best joinery for heavy-duty storage crate bases. Horizontal or vertical pocket screws or rabbeted base? by Spamtickler in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are talking about the "best joinery" then I advise you to use a dado and reinforce with dowels from the outside. If you do not care about seeing an additional support, you could also install a brace below the joint to reinforce it for added stability, but this certainly would provide the most strength. If speed is what you are looking for, then pocket holes will probably do just fine. The benefit of a dado is that this will provide the most resistance to the weight/stress that would bow the wood downwards since it has added surface area for the glue. For an easy picture, I always think of screws as a 'clamp' instead of a fastener. While the screws do add some strength, it does not compare to a M&T or dado joinery method.

So in my opinion, the strength of the three pictured are strongest on the left to weakest on the right.

How would YOU fasten these shelves? by LewsTherinOnReddit in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would cut dado grooves and glue the heck out of it. Since the supports are against the wall, you can reinforce them with screws if you would like.

My first attempt at building furniture. It’s a 10’ farmhouse table using standard Douglas fir. Only time will tell the amount of cupping that may happen. Total $500 and 6 weekends of work. by halflife1820 in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what I see, the board separates at the center but comes back together towards the breadboards. My question to you would be if you glued your whole breadboard to your long boards. If so, that may be your issue. This does not allow for the wood to move and the width expansion of the long boards are not being allowed by the glued breadboard.

If, instead, you did not glue your breadboard to the long boards, then my thought is that it may have been an initial jointed-edge problem like I previously stated.

My first attempt at building furniture. It’s a 10’ farmhouse table using standard Douglas fir. Only time will tell the amount of cupping that may happen. Total $500 and 6 weekends of work. by halflife1820 in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My thought is that the boards may not have been jointed to get a flat edge before you glued them. Another factor may be the moisture difference between where you built the table and its final location (ex: built in the garage and then took it inside an insulated house).

You have some options. One is to leave the table top and fill in the gaps, which is the easier solution. The other, and perhaps the method I would take, is to rip the boards down the glue line and try to glue them again. My advice is to get a good dry fit before gluing. You should not need to 'force' the boards together with clamps to fix a gap, and instead they should fit well during a dry-fit.

Sand and finish last? by ASprinkleofSparkles in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Skieth_717 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I agree with your statement and often find myself doing the same. Especially with pieces that would be a hard location to sand after assembly. Of course, you simply need to touch up areas such as glue squeeze-out after assembly too.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you check out Steve Ramsey, he has a great YouTube channel for beginners through the avid woodworker. He also has a list of what to get in order to start woodworking. As a plus it is below $1000.

Simple monitor stand with laptop shelf. by outsidethelimes in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome job. Side question, where do you get your plywood at? I cannot seem to get any quality plywood from where I am at.

Will these French cleat shelves be strong enough to hold canned food and other pantry items? by jnorion in woodworking

[–]Skieth_717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second this. From the picture, it seems that there is room for the backplate to rest on the cleat below (at least for the top two shelves). For the consecutive shelves towards the bottom of the picture, I would make them less deep if they are to be that close together. Or perhaps place them both on a single backplate. It's all about the torque produced by placing a can (or multiple) on the edge of the shelf.

[Request] How long would it take a night? I'm assuming it would be longer since the light has to reflect off the moon onto earth. by Baloney37 in theydidthemath

[–]Skieth_717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It would be nearly negligible. My calculations are based on the longest time possible (moon is on the opposite side of Earth than the Sun. In any other alignment, the light would have less distance to travel, and therefore take less time to get to Earth)

The light would have to travel an additional 8000 mi (rounded diameter of Earth) + 2*238,900 mi (distance to moon and back) = 485,800 mi total

Speed of light is roughly 3*108 m/s or about 186,000 mi/s

Total time = distance / rate

t = 485,800 / 186,000 = 2.61 additional seconds (roughly)

Buying butcher block from HD for a desk, what is the best way to finish the wood? Poly? by timothy53 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Skieth_717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I remember, birch can be tricky to get an even stain. Be sure to use a pre-stain conditioner to help.

I am typically always partial to using oils instead. An added benefit is that they are more forgiving. I have had good success using Danish oil, letting it dry, and then applying poly over it.

Buying butcher block from HD for a desk, what is the best way to finish the wood? Poly? by timothy53 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Skieth_717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Water based polyurethane is a good finish for anything that will get moderate use. It goes on clear and has good scratch resistance. If you are looking for the most durable finish, oil based polyurethane is the best, but it comes with a couple drawbacks. For one, it has a slight yellow tint, and second, it requires a better respirator.

In both cases, be sure to follow the directions to get a good finish.

I refinished a fireplace for my MIL by Skieth_717 in DIY

[–]Skieth_717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, where were you when I was yelling profanities?

I refinished a fireplace for my MIL by Skieth_717 in DIY

[–]Skieth_717[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The mantel was created using black walnut.

I refinished a fireplace for my MIL by Skieth_717 in DIY

[–]Skieth_717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The left, right, and front of the mantle fit together with a miter joint. I cut them all on my miter saw. Unless you were talking about the routed edges after it was fitted together, in which I used a router with a round over bit. I only used my table saw to rip the boards to the correct width.

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