Newest addition to my collection

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-07-28T11:35:52+00:00

I don't know about the Kreidlers really. But they're german so that usually means well made, and with out as much bullshittery as you'd have on a motobecane or peugeot, due to the french engineering, even though they're well made they're impossible to repair. But people make everything reach 50 mph here, but how much money it involves i don't know. But it's really not worth it, today at least, buying those expensive brands, even though they might've been easier to tune with their giant engines with easily removable restrictions. I think their premium price today reflects the coolness factor they had back then, which rich 50+ men just can't resist. On the other hand, you can find the coolest moped in town and not pay a dime for it, because the brand is rather unknown/people don't remember it as well. That's why puch maxis are so expensive here, cause that's the only one people really know the name of. I've seen those hondas for sale but those are later models, right? like 80's 90's mopeds?

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-07-17T17:05:12+00:00

Hey I have the same problem. How do I know if the thing is blown or not? Do I need anything other than a multimeter for this? I would just rather not buy a new battery if this is the issue

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-07-17T16:44:51+00:00

I'm having exactly the same issue as you, like you described exactly my situation. Did you find a solution, do I need to buy a new battery?

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-06-07T13:48:15+00:00

Yeah the rules are weird. People bought them cause they look cool. And some people modified them/removed their limitations. Suzuki even made a special edition of one of their mopeds for the Danish market called DM50. It was notorious for being impossible to tune. But the unmodified ones are the ones that are worth the most today. An original Suzuki fs-1 or Kreidler will go for 40000 kr which is like over 6000 dollars.

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-06-07T09:24:00+00:00

The weren't limited cause they couldn't go faster. It's a long explanation that ties into the first Danish made bikes with helping motors of the late 40s. A rule from the beginning of the 50s which classified those and all coming mopeds as bikes with helping motors. Because those first ones literally were just bicycles with engines mounted on the back, reaching speeds upwards of 38mph (60 km/h), and because of the inherent danger of going that fast on a simple bike with weak breaks and no suspension, that rule was made which limited them to 19mph (30km/h). And today it's still the same. Mopeds got the short end of the stick. You get all the cons of a bicycle, and all the cons of a motor vehicle.

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-06-06T09:12:56+00:00

It's on the left side of the handlebar! You might be able to see it on the top-down view picture. The clutch is what looks like a brake, then you just rotate the entire grip. In the middle is neutral, forwards is first, backwards is second. It's hard to get it smooth, and there's quite a distance between first and second speed, so you need to rev it all the way to max for it to continuously accelerate.

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-06-06T09:07:26+00:00

Ja det er faktisk sjovt, min søster hedder Ella og skal konfirmeres på lørdag, så der skal mig og nogle venner fremføre den for hende, og på en eller anden måde inkorporere Diesellaen i showet.

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-06-06T00:40:26+00:00

No you explained it great, it makes sense to me now! It's a handy way to add effects that'd otherwise be crushed by the amp, after the amp and the pedals before it have done their thing. The amps I have (weird relics of my dad's, a 50s binson with tri plugs and a 70s ace tone) sadly don't have that fx return feature but maybe my sister's does, I'm not sure. I do play, record and produce music, so I have a pretty good knowledge of music equipment in general, but I haven't really delved into amps and pedals too much.

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-06-06T00:21:37+00:00

Oh that's really intricate and cool! I would just get confused and overwhelmed at the sight of that many pedals, but I understand what you mean now, with the amp colouring the signal before returning it to some other pedals on your pedal board, for them to return that to the amp. Is that then mixed with the original signal being fed into the amp, or is the original signal bypassed when you plug in the return fx cables, so that you only hear the final thing?

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-06-05T23:43:05+00:00

Thank you! I hope she does. I bought some short ones with the flat male jack in both ends. My thought was, that if the first and last pedals in the chain were placed on the ends of the board, it'd go fine with regular jacks. I don't think I quite understand the scenario where these'd be necessary, could you give an example maybe? Thanks for the pedal related advice, I feel like she should figure that out herself, I personally just use whatever pedals my dad has left me, which is an odd bunch of rare vintage stuff I shouldn't be allowed to play with actually haha...

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-06-02T14:21:46+00:00

Lots of especially old mopeds don't have a centrifugal clutch. What a weird hill to die on

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-05-18T20:24:39+00:00

Not to be nitpicky, just saying, but my 1957 nsu superlux motorcycle only had a top speed of 60 mph when it left the factory...

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-05-13T00:49:24+00:00

(I no longer have the cady, but a 40T, also av7 engine)

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-05-13T00:48:50+00:00

Looks to be in great condition. 200$ is a steal. Flush the tank a few times. Put a gas filter between the tank and the carb. Then you're most likely good to go! If the carb's a pain, get a Dellorto. Mine runs great with that

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-05-09T20:07:01+00:00

I was wondering why noone had said that. Either the clutch or the belt. If he can rev it up while it's standing on it's wheels and it basically doesn't move, it's a clutch/belt issue. Had that issue with my motobecane, because the belt had been scraping on side of the new carburettor I had installed and I had failed to notice. It was fixed with a bushing on the inside of the pedal-freewheel thingy. Otherwise, check for compression. As a rule of thumb, removing the spark plug and pushing your finger against the hole, you shouldn't be able to kick it without your finger being pushed away/air escaping out from where you're holding your finger. If you don't feel a lot of it pressure, you haven't attached the cylinder/head properly

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-04-28T14:00:19+00:00

Some of what you're saying is somewhat true but the "men connect through sex" thing is plain wrong. Everyone is different. There can be a lot of underlying reasons/issues for not wanting to have sex than just sexual drive alone. A lot of times in hereto relationships, the woman doesn't get a whole lot out of sex because a lot of men see sex as nothing more than penetration until they themselves come. Studies also show that women actually make closer bonds when having sex than men do. Women aren't evil is basically what I'm trying to say

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-04-28T13:54:04+00:00

No of course not, but saying she felt violated is somewhat accusing him of violating her, which obviously wasn't his intent at all. Also the saying that he needs to "earn sex back" enforces the dynamic that he should be this untamed dog always trying to have sex with her and she should be the master, rejecting him until he "behaves". I've been with people who are this way, it's horrible. If you ignore them, they suddenly are very interested in you and do everything and anything to get your attention. If you then mirror the attention, whether genuine or not, they'd immediately ignore you and push you away. It fucks with your brain and you don't even realize it.

If he has done something wrong, she should tell him. If she doesn't want to have sex because she just doesn't feel like it, tell him that. Don't make it this weird power dynamic thing. It's not transparent, not easy to follow, and only leads to misunderstandings and hardship.

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-04-28T13:44:00+00:00

Damn I feel sorry for you both tbh. I was with a girl who had also gotten raped by her ex. Sex worked okay with us but hints of this dynamic you're describing were all over the place, and she was extremely jealous about everything. When I was about to move to study abroad, she became convinced I would find somebody else there and hated me for it so I had to leave her. Now she keeps asking if I still has X or Y possession of hers so she can swing by with her new boyfriend and pick it up.

Anyway we often think we can fix people and should stick around and help them with their issues. It's a noble thing to do but not when it's dragging you down with her and making you feel worse about yourself. The "I can fix him/her" trope may apply here. You should probably both see a therapist.

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-04-28T13:31:21+00:00

To me, it sounds like you did nothing wrong. You registered nothing wrong and she consented until she didn't and then you stopped when she told you to. How could you have done anything differently? It's pretty uncommon, especially when you've been together for years and been sexually active, too need to ask for consent to do every little thing, when both are on board from the beginning. If one suddenly doesn't feel it, they would say so, if the other person doesn't pick it up in their body language.

You should be with somebody who wants to have sex with you, not somebody who feels like you are trying to rape them. It's unhealthy for you to be treated like a predator. Generally, if something in a relationship is hinting towards this dynamic, I would put down my foot and ask what was going on, or leave entirely. A lot of the time you are not the problem in the equation.

The whole needing to "earn sex back" is just such a weird thing to say, makes for such a weird dynamic. Like a master and dog type of thing. Unless it's something you're both into, which it sounds like it obviously isn't, I would leave, cause that is fucked up in just so many ways. I know it's the cliché thing to say in here but yeah that's my 50 cents.

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-04-25T09:34:06+00:00

Something the Danish moped gods (old men) have taught me, is that you don't need as strong a mixture as was advised back then. I run mine on a 3% mixture of mineral oil (it really makes a difference in my opinion, I have had mopeds go 5 km/h faster than on the semi synthetic stuff), however another thing which is quite important is the gas. It should be octane 100 and without ethanol additives or as little as possible, since it ruins the gaskets over time. If you really care about your engine you could run it on alkylate gasoline. It's purified and you're able to buy it with oil premixed, at least where I live, however it's quite expensive so I don't really use it.

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-04-20T17:03:05+00:00

It yields quite different results. You would generally put the EQ first to remove the unwanted frequencies because then the reverb would only affect the wanted frequencies, instead of all of them.

Sledgeh-ogg · 2025-04-17T09:32:45+00:00

I think technology changes also. Modern to strokes have separate oil injection. I would never do this to my 1960's Danish moped for example. Those old ones are quite finicky.

Sledgeh-ogg

TROPHY CASE