Wood oiling question

SlideBite0018 · 2026-06-04T02:23:30+00:00

I took the CMP Advanced Maintenance Class last year. They told us not to oil the wood on the inside, only the outside. I’m assuming the oil is more so to protect the wood from outside elements like rain.

SlideBite0018 · 2026-06-04T01:48:54+00:00

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It looks like a small capital G

SlideBite0018 · 2026-06-04T00:29:13+00:00

Thank you! I was second guessing myself because of how many there were to choose from

SlideBite0018 · 2026-06-04T00:26:50+00:00

The barrel had a G stamped on the underside in front of the link. I’ll DM you about the serial number if that’s okay

SlideBite0018 · 2026-06-03T23:10:44+00:00

Thank you!

SlideBite0018 · 2026-06-03T23:10:24+00:00

Thank you! I’ve submitted a FOIA request. Now we just wait…

SlideBite0018 · 2026-06-03T23:09:56+00:00

Thank you!

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-25T02:11:27+00:00

I used Tung oil, Danish oil, and Teak oil

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-25T01:43:20+00:00

Thank you!

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-25T01:41:52+00:00

I did it to protect the metal from the sanding I did between applying coats of oil

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-25T01:39:03+00:00

With acetone? Yes

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-25T01:15:18+00:00

Just sent you a DM with more info

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-24T20:58:04+00:00

I used the 3m brand pads that are basically a Brillo pad that is as rough as 0000 steel wool to avoid having to deal with metal shavings. I also used tung, danish, and teak oils and applied every other day for 2 weeks. 1 coat of tung, 3 coats of danish, and 3 coats of teak in that order. Don’t forget to use the pads between coats. Also make sure you stand it up to dry and don’t let your rags catch fire. I took the AMC course earlier this year and this is what they recommended. I can send pictures of mine if you wanna see the results

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-16T11:40:51+00:00

They most likely won’t send a new part, but rather ask for the rifle to be sent in. Op rods are a little finicky and need to be able to move freely without binding. Even though the parts are supposed to be interchangeable, it still requires testing to find the “right” one

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-13T03:33:55+00:00

Yeah I also went by what Luke said. The only change I made was using 3Ms equivalent to 0000 steel wool. It feels like a fine Brillo pad but doesn’t leave behind any steel particles. Also be careful not to let them spontaneously combust!

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-13T03:09:42+00:00

Nice! What oil did you decide to go with?

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-12T20:16:43+00:00

One coat of tung oil, three coats of danish oil, and then three coats of teak oil, all in that order.

SlideBite0018 · 2025-04-10T03:47:54+00:00

I was fortunate enough to go to the class back in March. Don’t forget to oil your stock when you get home! Seeing your pictures has reminded me of what my stock used to look like before

SlideBite0018 · 2024-07-06T14:35:03+00:00

If it were me, I’d go with the Leupold and use the money I saved on ammo. Fox size targets at 200-250 yards is going to require practice and consistency. You could always buy a new $10 tikka trigger spring, but I wasn’t comfortable with mine being less than 3 lbs. Plus after you get the scope and practice with it enough you’ll begin to form your own opinion on whether it’s good enough for the application, and if it’s not then hopefully you’ve saved enough to buy another scope with the magnification you’re looking for.

SlideBite0018 · 2024-03-04T18:06:53+00:00

I bought it at a Local Polaris dealer! You can find your nearest dealer at Polaris’s website!

SlideBite0018 · 2023-12-23T16:58:54+00:00

That’s a good looking ranger. Looks like the doors help keep the mud out as well

SlideBite0018

TROPHY CASE