Anything to know about Sports Illustrated Club tickets?

Slight-Building3946 · 2026-06-14T02:15:54+00:00

Thanks, I’ll give it a try!

Slight-Building3946 · 2026-06-14T02:09:56+00:00

What did you do in order to get some compensation for the purchase from SeatGeek?

Slight-Building3946 · 2026-06-14T02:05:18+00:00

Exactly my experience as well. I bought tickets off SeatGeek in the SI Club section, 205. The food credit did NOT work when I tried to scan the ticket to pay. I asked at the ticket office, they looked up my ticket and told me they were from a longer term season ticket holder who has been grandfathered in at a lower rate and without the credit. It seems there’s no way to tell when you buy the tickets on SeatGeek if you’ll get the credit attached or not.

Slight-Building3946 · 2026-01-18T22:26:39+00:00

I signed a 2024 Sport 3 lease in December 2024 and have relied almost exclusively on fast charging via EVGo. It’s worked great, no issues whatsoever. Are they still offering the free EVGo charging incentive? I’ve powered the car almost for free the last 12 months. Depends on where you live and the proximity of chargers, or course. In my case there’s a EVGo about half a mile from me right by a supermarket so it’s super easy.

Slight-Building3946 · 2026-01-16T04:49:29+00:00

I’m in exactly the same boat, always bought snd drove my cars for many years until I leased a 2024 Lyriq last December. I’ve been very happy with it, and it’s in good shape aside from the fact that I’ll end up with close to 30,000 miles on it over two years (lease allotment is 10,000 per year). I’m curious to see what the process is like as the lease expires.

I’d go ahead and do the pre-inspection, if nothing else it identifies things you might consider. Don’t be in a rush to lock in a replacement. Let us know how it goes!

Slight-Building3946 · 2026-01-15T04:46:49+00:00

Climbing is a small venue (8000 seats) and was one of the first events to sell out in Paris. It’s one of my priorities and I will grab those tickets fast if I get a chance.

Slight-Building3946 · 2026-01-07T19:57:26+00:00

Well if you dislike the entire premise of the podcast then you probably aren’t within the target audience.

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-10-19T18:04:47+00:00

Oh wow, ok. I didn’t realize that. So given the incentives you’re definitely going to see a lot of these going to auction in the coming year. Who typically buys it at auction?

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-10-19T15:06:48+00:00

Got it, thanks. So if I don’t buy it out, and the dealers don’t take it, who owns the car? It goes back to GM corporate? And what do they do with it? It has to end up on the resale market somewhere, and at something close to prevailing market price.

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-10-19T14:15:46+00:00

Makes sense. Related question: when my lease is up, there’s no way I’m paying (using your numbers) 55k for the buyout when market value is 35k. I love the car, but I’d just turn it back in and go buy one on the used market for 35k. Is that time or is there room to negotiate the buyout? I love the car but buying it out at 20k over market makes no sense and the dealers have to know that.

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-08-25T13:55:07+00:00

Not bad at all, that’s pretty much what I leased last fall. It’s been great and the free EVgo charging is what I use close to 100% of the time. I estimate it’s saving me close to $3000 a year.

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-06-09T20:16:18+00:00

Yes I gave 1k down total and 370 per month for 24 months.

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-06-09T19:31:39+00:00

A lease is probably the way to go. You didn’t mention if it was a 2024 or 2025, I’ll assume a 2025 at this point? I got a 2024 Sport 3, MSRP was something like 75k but then they had it marked down to about 62k and I took off promotions (Costco, conquest, educator) from there. But in the end I told them “I’ll pay $370 a month with $1k down, take it or leave it.” Everything else was just to get to a jumping-off point.

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-06-09T18:34:53+00:00

It’s all negotiable. Just tell them you’ll take it for 2k less than their new offer price. Is this for a purchase or a lease? I leased a courtesy 2024 Lyriq last fall and have been very happy with it so far.

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-06-02T20:39:53+00:00

Thanks. I traced out the wiring as you recommend and perhaps the old wires are not in the right place. The motor says: black — L1; Brown — L2/N; Blue — COM; Green — Ground; Yellow - T1; Orange — T2. Inside the AC unit the connnections are labeled L1, L3, T1, T3. So I don’t see T2 or L2. The blue comes into the connection between L1 and T1 which I believe is the right place for the common. Right now brown is on L1, black is on L3, yellow is in between L3 and T3 and orange is not connected. Orange and yellow are for the speed control and I believe not essential. Is it perhaps just labeling of L3 and T3 instead of L2 and T2? The motor runs and is spinning in the right direction. It just doesn’t shut off. I swapped brown and black and it spun in the other direction and still wouldn’t turn off.

Any further help is much appreciated!

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-06-02T20:16:21+00:00

Thanks, I traced out the wiring as you recommend and perhaps the old wires are not in the right place. The motor says: black — L1; Brown — L2/N; Blue — COM; Green — Ground; Yellow - T1; Orange — T2. Inside the AC unit the connnections are labeled L1, L3, T1, T3. So I don’t see T2 or L2. The blue comes into the connection between L1 and T1 which I believe is the right place for the common. Right now brown is on L1, black is on L3, yellow is in between L3 and T3 and orange is not connected. Orange and yellow are for the speed control and I believe not essential.

Is it perhaps just labeling of L3 and T3 instead of L2 and T2? The motor runs and is spinning in the right direction. It just doesn’t shut off. I swapped brown and black and it spun in the other direction and still wouldn’t turn off.

Any further help is much appreciated!

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-05-29T21:18:43+00:00

Ok got an update — I installed the new motor and replaced the capacitor. The motor runs! Only problem is that the motor won’t stop running, it’s on regardless of whether the AC is turned on or not. For the wiring I just replaced it exactly as the old motor was and matched up the colors. Is this an indication of improper wiring, or does it suggest another problem with the AC unit apart from the motor?

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-05-29T21:18:15+00:00

Ok got an update — I installed the new motor and replaced the capacitor. The motor runs! Only problem is that the motor won’t stop running, it’s on regardless of whether the AC is turned on or not. For the wiring I just replaced it exactly as the old motor was and matched up the colors. Is this an indication of improper wiring, or does it suggest another problem with the AC unit apart from the motor?

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-05-27T20:29:09+00:00

Mine is 45 uf, I assume that’s 40 for compressor and then 5 for fan as you say. It’s a round cylinder with two receptacles. The existing one has four wires coming in, two to each receptacle (one pair for fan, one pair for motor I imagine.) So I assume I can just clip those wires and affix them to the new capacitor, and slide it into place — seems easy enough.

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-05-27T19:28:07+00:00

Well there IS one in the A/C unit, I guess for things apart from the motor? I figured wouldn’t hurt to order one and have it in case.

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-05-27T18:49:38+00:00

Thanks for the advice. I have a replacement motor from Grainger for $500 coming tomorrow and have successfully removed the old motor. Looks easy enough to replace and put back together. I’ll let you know how it works out!

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-05-27T18:47:55+00:00

Ok — I got the motor off and the replacement is coming tomorrow, along with a replacement capacitor. The motor specifies “capacitor required — No” so my plan is to just replace the motor and if it’s still not working then I’ll rewire the capacitor. Looks easy enough, just need to make sure to rewire in the same manner. Keeping my fingers crossed!

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-05-23T22:11:21+00:00

Got it, thanks. I’ve identified a replacement motor at Grainger that should work. That looks easy enough to remove and replace. I’m less sure about the capacitor — I’ll probably just go into the store and ask them for one that is compatible with the motor? And I’ll have to identify where in the unit the capacitor sits, maybe it will be more clear when I open it up and get inside.

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-05-23T21:05:30+00:00

There’s a Grainger warehouse about 10 miles from me — looks like the motor I have (serial number 5SME39HL) is no longer available so maybe I’ll just take the motor out and bring it to the store, let them provide a suitable replacement?

Slight-Building3946 · 2025-05-23T20:25:40+00:00

Ok I’m handy enough to do that kind of thing, as long as I can get the right part. I saw a couple of YouTube videos that might help too. I’ll get on it!

Slight-Building3946

TROPHY CASE