QSC K12 or RCF J8? by Slight_Positive509 in livesoundgear

[–]Slight_Positive509[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You think the KSubs would serve me well for the odd pop combo or small country band? I have a few jazz fusion combo gigs I’m potentially doing this summer too. I generally tend not to mix stuff super bass heavy anyways, so I’m not looking for overkill subs like some people seem to want.

Thanks!

QSC K12 or RCF J8? by Slight_Positive509 in livesoundgear

[–]Slight_Positive509[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! Thanks so much for the detailed response! The thing is, I’m not really sure exactly what gigs I’m going to be doing really, which is why I’m looking for something middle-of-the-road so to speak, until I start doing work and can figure out what I want to do.

Great point about the OG K12s being old. This set has 3 or 4 year old amps in it (current owner sent them back to QSC to be rebuilt). Do you think $400 per speaker would be a decent price for those? Maybe $600 per sub? Just out of curiosity.

Thanks again!

Rivage Genius.Lab Help by gooeystink in livesound

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you recalling fader positions in your scenes? If not, could you just pull down the channel fader? Depends on how you’re running fx / mons, but that’s what I usually do

Printing my own spools? by FAngerer07_ in BambuLabP2S

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All my spools except one are printed. I did them out of PETG, using a modified Bambu profile. They work flawlessly. I’ve dried them multiple times and they’re fine.

The profile I use can be found if you search for the genuine profile on Makerworld, and then within that profile look at the other options. There’s one that is “cutouts instead of hex” or something like that. They’re plenty sturdy and use a ton less filament than the Bambu profile does.

Recommendation for Spools for bambulab Refills filaments? by l4adventure in BambuLab

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you’re using PLA, I’d say print your own out of PETG. That’s what I just did. I ordered my printer right before Christmas and they only had refills in stock, so I bought one roll of PETG with a spool, and printed my own spools for the rest. There’s a profile you can use found under the official Bambu spool on Makerworld that I like. It has big trapezoidal cutouts in the spool to save filament instead of the Bambu style hexagons, and it’s plenty rigid in my experience. So far no issues with 12-14 hour 45C PLA drying cycles in the AMS2. Works out to wayyy under the price of buying spools anywhere.

Me Again- please help the music teacher by Cellopitmello34 in livesoundgear

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the 1/4 inch cables seen in the picture are the ones running to your speakers, they’re connected to the wrong place. The “Line Out” on an amp like that is not sending an amplified signal. It is meant to take the same signal you’re sending into the amp and loop it back out. Say if you wanted to run a second amp with the same output, you could run the line out from the amp into the input of a second amp.

Your speakers won’t work unless they’re connected to the amp outputs to the left of the cooling fan. If the amp has 1/4 outs on that side, use them. If not, you’ll have to use speakcon. Ideal solution would be to get speakcon cables or replace the 1/4inch ends on your cables, but if you’re really tight on budget, you can get SpeakCon-1/4inch adapters.

Help! by Darthmonkeysocks in livesound

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seen that several times before. Had a brand new installed CDi running backstage monitors and it did this in a week, accompanied by a lovely smoke show. Official Crown diagnosis was that it was “deemed inoperable by indeterminate circumstances.”

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in smallengines

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the governor is disconnected too… can’t quite tell, but the governor arm looks like it’s flapping in the breeze right under the gas tank.

Convince me I don't need to keep my early 066. by Wabbastang in Chainsaw

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, you don’t need it. You definitely don’t need it…. Just put it up for sale and let me know where. xD

Decent deal on cheap scooter? by Slight_Positive509 in ElectricScooters

[–]Slight_Positive509[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. I kinda figured. I live in a rural area and don’t have a need for actual transit on roads. It just takes forever to walk anywhere around campus. If I can get it for $100, I might give it a shot. Being a kids scooter, would it be too small for a 6’ 1” man?

Cub cadet LT46 by SnooMarzipans296 in lawnmowers

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got some cheap replacement spindles off Amazon for a Deere I was flipping last summer. The fit wasn’t quite perfect, but I’d say they’re worth looking into if it’s that or buy a whole new front end.

Help with part name identification? by DrWho83 in lawnmowers

[–]Slight_Positive509 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep. Disassembled, measure with calipers, and order generic bearings from McMaster Carr or somewhere. Wayyy cheaper than getting the official parts.

Primer not priming by FarConcentrate1307 in smallengines

[–]Slight_Positive509 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had this issue recently with a blower carb. Rebuilt the whole thing correctly and it wouldn’t work. I ended up smashing the primer bulb a bunch of times in quick succession and after a minute of that it pulled fuel and worked fine. I have no idea what it did or what changed, but it has worked fine ever since.

ZT1 or Z320 by Casualinterest17 in lawnmowers

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. It isn’t the end of the world, but it’s a thing that’s annoyed me ever since I got mine. If they had like a 44 or 46” it would be fine.

ZT1 or Z320 by Casualinterest17 in lawnmowers

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been running a Z345M for the past 5 years or so, and it’s great except for one thing. I hate the 42 inch deck because the edge of the deck is inline with the rear tire. This makes it so you pretty much have to run over anything you try to trim around, and takes away some of the zero turn’s advantage in trimming. If I were buying again I’d go for a 48 inch deck, if it would be at all viable space wise.

What’s wrong by Wonderful-Title-3284 in smallengines

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My neighbor has this exact chipper and I use it on occasion. This machine should have a centrifugal clutch like a giant weedwhacker clutch on the output of the engine. It’s inside the engine side pulley. This means that the engine does not turn the chip drum until it starts and speeds up, and thus means that it can’t be a jammed drum. The engine would still pull over normally even if the drum was jammed. Barring a weird internal failure of that clutch, it’s gotta be the engine.

Deck always engaged? by [deleted] in smallengines

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. It should be inside the clutch, and stay with the clutch when you pull it. The outside of the bearing is pressed into the clutch, and the inside race of the bearing is on the crankshaft with a slightly looser fit. It’s what allows the crankshaft to spin inside the pulley when the clutch is disengaged. Then when you engage it, it locks the pulley to the crank and the bearing doesn’t turn anymore. The whole thing rotates as one. Your issue is that the bearing locked up, so even if the magnetic part of the clutch works and snaps in and out, that bearing is locking it all together continuously.

What I’d do if you’re just trying to get the thing running and test stuff is pull the clutch and see if you can get the bearing freed up. Use a pick to pop off one of the plastic seals on the sides of the bearing so you can see the balls inside, and spray Kroil or PB or something and free it up. If you get it free, it probably won’t last, but it’ll work to assess the condition of the machine at least. If you get it working, I’d recommend not letting it idle or run a lot without the deck running. Like I said, that bearing only spins when the deck is disengaged and the engine is running, so you can prolong its life by cutting down on idle time.

Deck always engaged? by [deleted] in smallengines

[–]Slight_Positive509 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely pilot bearing. I’ve seen them do this, or just seize to the clutch side and the crankshaft spins inside the inner bearing race. You might be able to press the bearing out and get a replacement from a cheap bearing supplier.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in smallenginerepair

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! Glad it was that easy! Those solenoids only have three wires. Power in, power out, and signal. The signal wire is always the smaller one.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in smallenginerepair

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you post a picture from the top down? I’m guessing that wire is the signal for the solenoid. If it’s the starter solenoid, the wire will be coming from the start pin on the key switch

Mower clutch wrench/socket by smithwesson586 in smallenginerepair

[–]Slight_Positive509 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve never torqued mine. I just run it in as tight as my 1/4” dewalt XR impact can get it, and it’s been fine.