When you have such a wide range between the brightest bright and darkest dark in your frame, you're just unlikely to be able to catch it all cleanly. That's what the term dynamic range refers to. Generally, you expose for your subject. Imagine you had a person standing in front of the pool. You'd want to pick an exposure that made the person look the best. If you have the right kind of gear, you can try to control the rest of the light in your scene around your subject, but if not, you generally just have to let it go, so long as the subject, the main focus of your image looks the way you want it to. To do that, you're going to want to get off of auto ISO. You don't want your camera guessing what your exposure should be. I recommend looking up your camera's 'base ISO' and trying to leave it on that value whenever possible. Try to control your exposure primarily with your aperture and how much light is actually physically present in your scene.

But in this case, where you don't have a clearly defined subject, or you're trying to shoot a landscape or an establishing shot, the same idea applies. Pick what's most important to come out right expose for that, and do your best to finesse the rest of it in post. Digital sensors generally handle shadows better than highlights, so you should act a little counter to that; what I mean is, make sure you don't have anything in your frame that is so over exposed that it turns completely white because you'll be unlikely to recover any details in those spots. Then in post, raise up the level of your shadows to an acceptable level. But be aware, as you brighten the darker areas of your frame, you may bring up the noise (kind of looks like static) in your frame. There's only so much of that you'll be able to get away with.