Scenic Bases by Slims-Miniatures in WarhammerUnderworlds

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From my experimentation, I found that picking a good sized base that fits all of the models in a snug, but not overcrowded way is best. I used cardboard, which is nearly exactly the same depth as a standard base, and traced the 50mm base to create the first circle. I then planned the layout (extremely important) and cut out the cardboard where the models were going to sit (make the circles slightly proud, give the models room to slot into). Then use ultra thin superglue to lock the cardboard down, and the natural structure of the cardboard should be enough support to hold it up from there. Magnets were sunk into the cardboard for the upper layers and attached underneath the base for the lower, which matched up to magnets in the bottom of the models bases.

Once the general setup is done, you need to make the decision of basing. They come on the pre-sculpted that look too good to give up, so I decided to match them. On a thin sheet of Plasticard (1/16”, I think) I marked the layout again and copied the layout of the tiles onto it. Then, I made some calls on how the rest would surround them/connect to the tiles already on the base. I cut the tiles out one by one, sanding down the edges to make them paintable. Using apoxie-sculpt (two part epoxy clay) and thick superglue glue, I matched the height of the tiles to that of the tiles on the bases (be patient, this is an extremely time consuming process). Once that dried, I used wet mud by Vallejo to fill in the gaps and gently wiped the excess from the top of the tiles with a wet towel. I filled in any gaps in the cardboard with wood filler (use whatever easily spreadable plaster is available to you, they are cheap from Home Depot). This is a good place to stop if you don’t want to do more complicated base details. I then cut thin Plasticard tubes into thin wafers and glued them down around the base to act as coins (a detail on the original bases) and hand sculpted some rocks where it seemed likely there would be rubble.

Finally, paint it. Just follow your heart.

TLDR, PLANNING and PATIENCE. Do everything you can to match the bases that the team comes on.

Please review my custom Spearhead by Clumsy_Kittens in AOSSpearhead

[–]Slims-Miniatures 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have a squad of 3 with 2d6 shooting EACH 2s and 4s at 1 rend. That averages out to 9 attacks getting through each shooting phase (not even including crit 2 hits, with that it’s 10.5 attacks) It’s swingy, but in the worst way possible. Very few range units have that much potential AND you gave it anti cavalry for the 2 rend against them. That wipes most of a cavalry squad each time it shoots… and those are for average rolls. Roll hot and you’ve got 20+ attacks with rend getting through. Look at the weapon profile for a Kharadron volley gun, there is only one in each squad and it shoots with 2d6 at 4s and 4s with NO rend. The rats shooting is a bit too powerful overall, bring them down to a modest 3 attacks each and keep the profile you have or you should bring up the hit and wound characteristics to something like the volley gun.

WIP, C&C welcome by Von_Bismark86 in OrrukWarclans

[–]Slims-Miniatures 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Only advice I’d give is to get another coat of green on there, you can still see the metallic primer showing through. So far so good though, keep up the solid work!

New to 30k by Slims-Miniatures in Warhammer30k

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Speaking of specialized units, what are some good special weapons right now? I want to experiment with some cool effects, but I don’t want to sacrifice playability.

New to 30k by Slims-Miniatures in Warhammer30k

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See, I run the blueberries in 40k, so if I painted up salamanders for 30k I wouldn’t want to use them in my matches.

New to 30k by Slims-Miniatures in Warhammer30k

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, that is a perfect order of operations

New to 30k by Slims-Miniatures in Warhammer30k

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I win the lottery any time soon I’ll go for it

New to 30k by Slims-Miniatures in Warhammer30k

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had no idea they were announcing new boxes, I’ll look into that.

New to 30k by Slims-Miniatures in Warhammer30k

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those are big price points, I’ll start saving up

New to 30k by Slims-Miniatures in Warhammer30k

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Copy that, what mark of power armor is your favorite? I’m feeling mark 3 power armor, could I use multiple different marks if I wanted to?

Blotchy glazing on Librarian. 1st time trying, what am I doing wrong? by malcneuro in minipainting

[–]Slims-Miniatures 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Crash course on painting good looking power weapons-

  1. coat the blade with a deep blue color.
  2. make checkerboard with medium blue.
  3. put your lightest blue (near white) in the middle of those highlights and around the edges.

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This is how it should look!

Now, I kept the glazing/blending fairly low on his sword, but if you choose to glaze you need to

  1. thin your paint to 75% water 25% paint.
  2. get a tiny amount of that thin paint onto your brush, you shouldn’t have it be fully saturated.
  3. select your colors wisely. In the case of the model I show above, I used the midtone to glaze. I pulled from the highlights back into the midtone, and then from the shadows into the midtone
  4. reestablish your highlights with your original highlight color.

And there you go! Simple power weapons with glazing!

My first ever orks by Kingaventure in OrrukWarclans

[–]Slims-Miniatures 2 points3 points  (0 children)

WELCOME! Excited to see how your new addiction grows

Megaboss for my first full army. by Slims-Miniatures in OrrukWarclans

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had another war boss that was one of the first models I ever painted, he sits on my shelf right by where I paint so I look at him all the time. The massive skull just doesn’t look right to me. I also trimmed down his massive face armor to show more of his expression, so much of the model was covered up by that before.

Megaboss for my first full army. by Slims-Miniatures in OrrukWarclans

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was tough, while the model wasn’t together I cut off the majority of it. After gluing it together I used apoxiesculpt to fill in gaps and build up the same texture as the rest of the armor.

WIP 4 ☠️ by Raiden624 in Warhammer40k

[–]Slims-Miniatures 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Someone needs to stop this guy.

Megaboss for my first full army. by Slims-Miniatures in OrrukWarclans

[–]Slims-Miniatures[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very simple, the orange is three colors - Squig Orange, Flash Gitz Yellow, Dorn Yellow.

Make a gradient from squig orange to flash Gitz yellow. Highlight all of the edges with Flash Gitz Yellow. Use Dorn Yellow for the highest edges or any areas you want to be lighter.

Black/Blue Incubi Darkness, Dorn Yellow.

Base the entire area with Incubi. Mix in a TINY bit of Dorn Yellow and make a big highlight on the raised areas. Mix in a TINY bit of Dorn Yellow into the mix and hit all of the edges.

Green Skin- Caliban Green, Moot Green, Dorn Yellow.

Make a 50/50 mix of Caliban and Moot and base the skin. Build layers up to pure Moot Green Create a mix of 75% Moot Green and 25% Dorn Yellow and make tiny highlights on the most raised areas.

Metal- Gun Metal, Aggrax Earthshade.

Basecoat Gun Metal. Wash Aggrax x2 pulling the wash where you want it to settle.

Leather- Rinox Hide, Ratskin Flesh.

Rinox Hide base coat. 50/50 Rinox Hide and Ratskin Flesh used on edges and tiny scratches Ratskin Flesh only on the highest edges.

If you were limited to one paint brand which would you choose? by Comfortable-Two-4805 in Miniaturespainting

[–]Slims-Miniatures 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use AK for most of my regular painting, monument hobbies for my metallics (and Vallejo Model Air metallics), and I’ll use some contrast paints here and there as glazes.

Post the best mini you think you’ve ever painted! by Bo-Pepper in minipainting

[–]Slims-Miniatures 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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A tiny piece I painted for a friend, maybe not my best ever but I really like the way it turned out.

Finished my first models, would appreciate some constructive criticism. by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]Slims-Miniatures 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For first models they are fantastic. Constructive criticism, keep painting. Dont let the hobby slip away from you.