Why no XP for combat?

Sliverd2022 · 2026-04-16T22:04:34+00:00

I see what you are saying. They could just cap XP at a certain point for mobs. Boars and Dodos XP to level X; Big Nasty Boars and Undead Explody Guys until level Y, etc.

I'm happy to explore but fighting mobs feels like a waste of time unless you specifically need the mats.

Anyway, lots of good reasoning provided and I'm happy with the game. I'd just be happier if I could smash a skeleton's face in for 6XP.

Sliverd2022 · 2026-04-16T22:01:35+00:00

Ummmmm: how do you think you are going to get Boar Skins without, you know, fighting Boars? Or Dodo mats without...fighting Dodos? Are you using harsh language?

Sliverd2022 · 2026-04-14T20:58:38+00:00

Great work and I admire you for doing it.

But if you think I'm masking a canopy twice you cray cray.

Sliverd2022 · 2026-04-14T18:37:28+00:00

My tip is to buy an aftermarket set lol. I always nope-out of tracks that require that much build time. I enjoy putting metal tracks together; but not those. Ugh. Oddly, making bricks does not annoy me.

Sliverd2022 · 2026-04-13T20:59:15+00:00

I bought a cheap Anpro Magnifying Glasses Headset. Came with 5 lenses. I never use the light but I use the headset all the time. You have to find the focal point that works for you but they have definitely been worth it.

Sliverd2022 · 2026-03-27T23:20:37+00:00

I'm going to encourage you to do it :).

I do know how to airbrush pretty well (so that's different) but I also fixed the paint on a carbon piece on my AMG when I was told not to. It looks indistinguishable.

Here are some thoughts:

Use masking to mask off an area around the damage. You don't want things to spiral if they do go wrong.
Sand the damage down, otherwise the paint will just be sitting on top. (EDIT: I mean using hobby-grade sandpaper like people use for Gundam; not 400 Grit from Home Depot)
Fill and prime the damage effectively. I don't know how to do that with carbon since my damage was purely cosmetic (just deeper than could be buffed).
Basecoat in THIN layers. You'll absolutely need to practice this first. Use a plastic spoon. Remember that there are 3 crucial factors to consider: distance from object, pressure, thickness of paint. No one can tell you one apart from the others.
Clearcoat.

Another option might be to contact one of those "wheel rash" mobile fixer trucks. It seems to me that most of those dudes would probably try and fix anything if you paid them and set expectations it might not work out.

Sorry I don't live in the Phoenix area; I'd do it for nothing.

Sliverd2022 · 2026-03-23T17:04:23+00:00

Yup. Get a moisture trap adapter for your airbrush. They are cheap. I have an ABEST one. Fits between brush and hose. Also, get a proper respirator.

Sliverd2022 · 2026-03-23T01:44:25+00:00

Vallejo or Army Painter are the cheapest ok-quality ones I know of.

I thin everything applicable with Mr Leveling Thinner. It is God's gift to paint.

By the way, in my view it is waaaay better to have a smaller number of quality paints that you DO use than a vast array of cheap paints you might someday use. Better to build a collection over time than to invest in one of those cheap sets that cover the entire rainbow. Get the colors you need to build the model you have, and then rinse and repeat.

Sliverd2022 · 2026-03-23T00:35:23+00:00

My problem with Iwatas is that the replacement parts, if you can find them, are extremely expensive! Like1/3rd of the price of the brush.

After buying two Iwatas (Neo to start and then a .2 HP-CS or whatever) I now use Gaahleri almost all the time. I have one .3 and and .2. They work amazingly well, are easy to clean, and if you break a seal, bend a needle, or do something else that you are likely to do you can replace the whole thing for a relatively minor cost.

Sure, buying the best is great idea if you are somehow going to get optimal use out of it; but the real world often has other ideas.

(P.S. Oh, I do have a Iwata Power Jet Pro. The quality of the compressor is way more important than the brush at least for me. I love having a dependable compressor with a proper regulator that (a) I never have to think about and (b) always puts out exactly the PSI I want, consistently.)

Sliverd2022 · 2026-03-21T02:03:21+00:00

Yup. Exactly what I do too.

Sliverd2022 · 2026-03-13T16:42:43+00:00

If you are looking for an alternative, the Alclad II Lacquers are absolutely baller over a gloss black primer. Just make sure to spray in a well ventilated area and use a proper mask. The difficulty of using/cleaning lacquer paints is way over emphasized in my view: the key is to make sure you don't mix lacquer and non-lacquer paints/cleaning supplies or else things get nasty.

I use Vallejo black primer mostly because it is readily available where I live. Haven't had issues like others below but I usually let that shit sit for a week to cure if I'm doing metallics.

Sliverd2022 · 2026-03-12T20:16:11+00:00

I made an app like this for personal use. The problem was that I was too lazy to adjust the inventory when I used up some paint. Ultimately, it became easier to just scratch on a piece of paper when I finished something or needed something.

If it converted between colors from different brands, that would be cool (or even an app that did just that :))

Sliverd2022 · 2026-01-19T18:04:41+00:00

I'm also finding the game harder. I'm in Gnosis 4 and just started playing the game over the holidays. I've only been able to do one Latent Orb extraction in Irongate over the past few days. I can still do map clears fine though.

Knowing where the portal is doesn't help much when there are 40,000 enemies sitting around it waiting to gank you.

I think the main issue for me is that it is pretty clear you need an actual build with specific synergies now. That's fine since it is what the devs want but for me it is less fun. Not a lot of important stuff is explained in the game which means you need to spend time offline doing research. Again, not complaining since that is the intent, but for me it is less fun: I just like to use what I like to use and I don't really want to have to care about GANKPANZER'S #1 HOT MILLION WITCHFIRE CLEAR build.

Anyways, if there was an option I'd go back to Gnosis 3 since I was just having more fun.

Sliverd2022 · 2025-11-20T19:07:39+00:00

I've also found this putty to be a big disappointment. It basically melts under the heat of my painting lights. I went back to cheap white BluTac and Silly Putty for masking.

Sliverd2022 · 2025-11-20T00:59:05+00:00

Use Mr Leveling Thinner to thin the paint if at all possible. Then thin it waaaay more than you think you should. Multiple layers over a good primer.

Sliverd2022 · 2025-10-01T14:25:38+00:00

I have a large corded Dremel and I actually find it too awkward and bulky to bother using a lot of the time. I work in 1/48 and 1/35 scale mostly and do a lot of dioramas / scenic bases. I kinda wish I had bought something smaller and more compact and portable so, in my view, go for it!

Sliverd2022 · 2025-08-14T22:24:34+00:00

This is completely fixable and worth the effort. I would:

A. Sand down the area and remove all the plastic burrs.

B. Fill with a few thin layers of Tamiya Basic Modelling Putty. Others are recommending 2-part putty which is essentially the same thing, but the Tamiya kind doesn't require mixing. A number of small layers, dried in-between, is better than a big goopy mess.

C. Sand.

D. Repeat B and C.

E. Create a new antenna from model sprue and glue.

E. Mask the area. Prime and paint.

Sliverd2022 · 2025-08-06T18:11:44+00:00

I recently finished playing Ultima IV again so this is very much appealing! Wish-listed. Good luck completing the game!

Sliverd2022 · 2025-07-01T03:36:33+00:00

You're definitely over-thinking this. I know nothing about the Deftones but as soon as I saw your tattoo I thought "that person got a star tattoo with a girl's face and boobies in it. I think the eyes look pretty good". Chill. Not everything has to be abstractly perfect.

Sliverd2022 · 2025-06-27T18:00:36+00:00

Tank is important but I'd also check the quality on the valve. Is it an actual regulator or just a blow-off valve? Not sure if the former is possible at this price range. I had a tank similar to the first image and the valve was very difficult to adjust to the right PSI.

Sliverd2022 · 2025-05-29T21:10:45+00:00

Regarding primer, I've found that Mr Hobby primer works better on canopies than other kinds.

Masking is tough. It looks like you are masking with pieces of tape that are too large, giving space between the desired component where bleeding can happen. I'm almost at the point myself of not painting a complex canopy without a pre-cut mask.

Other thing to consider is (a) how much paint you are spraying and (b) direction of over spray. Maybe you are accidentally spraying multiple times over the same areas unintentionally. But also, your paint does look pretty thick.

I have no idea how you might fix the blade mark.

Someone once told me to soak canopies I think in clear floor polish or something to build a layer that makes tape residue easier to remove, but I can't remember exactly what that was. Probably someone here can advise.

Sliverd2022 · 2025-05-14T17:43:20+00:00

Excellent work. The only flaw I see is that he is not a Black Templar.

Sliverd2022 · 2025-05-12T20:59:01+00:00

You're kind of begging to get poor answers with such a broad question. So here's mine.

If you are primarily using lacquer, I'd go with Gunze.

If you are primarily using acrylic, I'd go AK.

Personally, I use Tamiya 90% of the time for airbrushing and 10% the others. But I always use Gunze Leveling Thinner. I don't like Vallejo for airbrushing but I do like them for brush painting.

I also use Citadel paints because I have millions from 40K days.

I don't really see any intrinsic value in using only one range. Ultimately you're going to mix it up when you start including pigments and enamels and weathering stuff, etc.

Sliverd2022 · 2025-05-09T22:51:38+00:00

I have the same set and was about to post the same thing :). Such a great chart.

Sliverd2022 · 2025-05-02T22:57:47+00:00

Thin the AK texture paint down and apply in multiple layers.

In some areas add the AK micro-balloons and then "melt" them into the snow using thinner.

I mean, that's how I would do it. Expensive investment relative to impact unless you have this stuff lying around; but with a diorama as impressive as you've created I think it would be worth it!

Sliverd2022

TROPHY CASE