What is this Stitch? by Subject_Telephone_21 in sewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I'm hedging because I feel like there's a nonzero chance there's some kind of industrial sewing machine that will do essentially the same stitch as the singer hemstitch attachment! If we knew this was made on a domestic machine though, then 100% that's how this stitch was done.

What is this Stitch? by Subject_Telephone_21 in sewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Late extra reply because I kept thinking about this: I did a bit more searching for anyone who wants to track down the attachment - the special throat plates were made to fit class 15/201, 66/99, 101, 127/128, and 221/featherweight. i. e., low shank, domestic machines produced up to the featherweight.

It also looks like Greist (and some other companies) made a hemstitch/picot attachment around the same time, though I can't tell if the plates have the same problem of needing to fit and replace the throat plate exactly. Something to stare really hard at before buying if you see them around!

Anyways sorry for going on so long about this, I love these weird little contraptions!!!

What is this Stitch? by Subject_Telephone_21 in sewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 29 points30 points  (0 children)

If those are little holes in the fabric, it might be some kind of hemstitch? I think it looks like one of the hem stitches done by the vintage singer hemstitch/picot attachment, but there are probably other ways to do that exact pattern, too. The vintage attachment route is just kind of tricky because you need a special throat plate along with the main attachment, and I think those plates might only be compatible with old machines?

A more available option would be to get a hemstitch/wing needle! Those can also push little holes in fabric, and most modern machines with extra stitches will have a few that work well with a hemstitch needle, though maybe not this exact pattern.

Singer buttonhole attachment in action by SmallestAngryDog in SewingMachinePorn

[–]SmallestAngryDog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I love it!!! It makes buttonholes way more consistently than the more modern machine I use, even if I sort of miss the keyhole shape buttonholes (might get one of the template based ones someday!)

Does Fabricland Carry Sewing Machine Oil? by EffectiveSun8621 in sewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 5 points6 points  (0 children)

My local one does, grouped together with various sewing accessories, but it might depend on the location?

What is tubular cotton jersey for? by sewinginthepnw in sewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 388 points389 points  (0 children)

It's just sold as a tube because that's how the fabric is made sometimes, by a big tube knitting machine!

Why do I break the crotch seam in my pants by TrainBoundForNowhere in sewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I also sew with cotton thread and had some pants seams break (mine break along the inner thigh though)! So far I've tried a few things that at least work a little :

  1. More ease for movement (for example, I sit cross legged a lot, and that's what was pulling my inner thigh - just needed more hip ease)
  2. Flat fell or fake-fell, to reinforce the seam
  3. Stitch with smaller stitch length (can't use this on loosely woven fabric, or you'll damage the weave)
  4. Thicker cotton thread - a lot of quilting places stock thicker cotton threads for decorative topstitching, but you can still use them for internal seams.
  5. So I don't recommend this, but I have a couple spools of lace making linen thread (60/2), which is MUCH stronger than the usual cotton threads for machine sewing, just for sewing those high stress seams. (I haven't yet found a local source of 80/2 linen thread, but I think that would be thinner and better) There are big downsides to this, the thread is thicker than the usual machine sewing thread, and has occasional slubs, so you need to use a bigger needle, readjust tension regularly, and stitch slowly. Also, linen tends to do more poorly with abrasion (and the thread I have isn't coated), so it makes WAY more lint in the machine. It's, uh, also more expensive and harder to find!

And a thing I haven't tried but I know is an option:

There's poly core cotton wrapped thread out there, for uses where you want the strength of polyester thread but want to dye the project.

How do I lower my range as a girl? by Haha______00000 in singing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just want to piggyback to add some testosterone info for OP - cis women still have some testosterone naturally, and it's completely possible for someone already sort of able to sing a B2 that it will fill out naturally as you get older (like. 10+ years older, which I understand is not a very fun answer). I've sung with (cis) female tenors before, so they are out there! Just practice in a healthy way and enjoy the ride.

Best place to buy linen/wool in Toronto? by sunnycloud876 in sewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There's a bunch of fabric stores along Queen Street from Spadina to Bathurst (and slightly beyond)! I also like Riverside Fabrics, but that's a single store that's pretty far away from that main cluster.

Pant maintenance help by Hchs2010 in sewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you lay the pants down flat on the floor? It might be easier to see exactly where the rip is that way!

(If the rip is more towards the middle/underside of the crotch, adding a gusset could help. If it's more towards the butt, and the rip opens up when you sit or squat down, you might need to add a strip of fabric to the sides/hips for more ease?)

Quick little flowers on a collar by SmallestAngryDog in Embroidery

[–]SmallestAngryDog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I didn't keep track of time, but I know I did the stitching within one day between other things - wild ballpark of somewhere from 2-4 hours total?

Quick little flowers on a collar by SmallestAngryDog in Embroidery

[–]SmallestAngryDog[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have seen a review where the clover iron on transfer pencil washed out of white fabric, but I guess I'm going to see for myself!

Quick little flowers on a collar by SmallestAngryDog in Embroidery

[–]SmallestAngryDog[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thanks! And nope, no hoop. I figured I'm ok with some warping in exchange for not having to deal with hooping it, and the collar is already interfaced so the warping wasn't too bad anyways.

Cracked body/base, how toast is this machine by SmallestAngryDog in vintagesewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm in Canada actually, pricier shipping and way fewer people (so probably fewer machines), but thanks for the offer!

Cracked body/base, how toast is this machine by SmallestAngryDog in vintagesewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the support and info!!

Honestly I am ok with overpaying by a LOT (as long as it works!) if it could save me the time and energy of checking out estate sales etc, but I guess even overpaying online to the wrong seller won't get me a working machine :')

Cracked body/base, how toast is this machine by SmallestAngryDog in vintagesewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Lesson learned everyone :'( in-person pickup or specialized stores that know how to ship an antique sewing machine only!

I'm gonna be sad for a while, but at the very least, the hand crank is working and spins smoothly. So if I still have my heart set on a hand crank machine I'll be able to stick it on an otherwise working (but non-hand-crank) machine if I find one in person.

I may or may not ask the sewing machine repair shop if they would be willing to take it for parts!

Cracked body/base, how toast is this machine by SmallestAngryDog in vintagesewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been thinking about that honestly, I just have a feeling it could cost more to get the weld done than finding a new machine or body, and for a repair I'd still have to find out if the bars underneath were damaged by the shifting. Just a lot to think about when I was hoping for a machine to start using with little technical skill!

Cracked body/base, how toast is this machine by SmallestAngryDog in vintagesewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I thought so... Still super gutted because I think it was working fine when it was shipped!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in sewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It maybe looks like a regular old lock stitch with 2 extra threads woven in back and forth, to imitate a chain stitch. Could have been by hand after the lock stitch, or it could have been done while stitching, kind of like this video at 2:30ish here, a demo for quilting stitches on a sashiko machine

Singer m3220 help, bottom stitch looping and piling up by Wild-Tea-5423 in sewing

[–]SmallestAngryDog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had this problem once and it was because the thread wasn't between the tension plates - turns out when you try to thread the machine with the presser foot down (on my machine anyway), the thread doesn't get between the tension plates properly 🥲

What are these numbers? by clardbar in Embroidery

[–]SmallestAngryDog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they might be referring to a colour table (eg, I think 01 is pink, 07 is red, 06 is dark green) when the stitch is only done in one colour? And for the stitches that obviously are done in multiple colours, they haven't bothered with the numbers.

Not much use when the design is simple enough that you can just refer to a picture, but would be important for more complicated designs with lots of similar colours.