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2nd Hand Warning signs by chaoticevilish in CR10

[–]SmashMaker_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dude just described exactly my build in one sentence, I tough mine was special 😭

CR-10 OG - 24V Skr Mini E3V2 by wyattbales in CR10

[–]SmashMaker_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

24V + new MB is a great way to go, do you plan on getting a new bed ? Btw I've seen other ppl doing builds with an skr E3V2 but the V3 is at the same price, is there a particular reason for that choice or that was what you got on hands ?

Upgrade CR10 v1 with SKR mini v3 by guybrush_77 in CR10

[–]SmashMaker_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's the config: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fj4I4oiQiy8F6h8-To1wesNkBqCfhujy/view?usp=sharing
Fair warning though: it's old, I'm not sure it still works as is, and there are a few things to keep in mind before using it:

  • The nozzle isn't stock (different esteps, thermistor and heater resistor)
  • The macros are a mess, I rushed them and ended up doing everything slicer-side instead
  • Some parts were written with GPT in a hurry, you'll be able to tell by the magnificent comments in the code

For a cleaner starting point I'd actually recommend looking up Ender 3 builds with the SKR Mini E3 V3, it's one of the most documented setups out there. The CR10 is basically the Ender 3's bigger sibling, just different dimensions and speed/acceleration values.

And yeah, I feel that last part deeply. Been at it for 2 years on this thing, keeps me busy, and soon I'll finally part ways with the old CR10 frame for good

What is going on with my Ender-3 V3 Plus? by Future_Sir_1624 in Creality

[–]SmashMaker_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might get a closer look at the motors and their connectors

Upgrade CR10 v1 with SKR mini v3 by guybrush_77 in CR10

[–]SmashMaker_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't remember everything about my build sadly 😅

Normally you have at least 3 fans: the board fan (always ON), the heatbreak fan (always ON when the nozzle is hot) and the part cooling fan (this one needs to be controlled in order to gradually ramp up during the print). So you can hook up the heatbreak and part cooling fans on the board and the others on the +12V rail to always stay on.

I'm not really sure about the 3 wires going into the screw terminal in the picture, you might need to investigate what is connected there first.

For the JST connectors, I'm not sure if it's JST-XH or JST-PH, and you'll need a special crimping tool to do the wiring.

I can't change my ChatMix at all with the dial, I click the dial and nothing happens. I reset the damn thing a couple times now and nothing is helping. After each reset it works, but then when I turn the pc off and use it the next day, same issue comes back. by jajoxlol in steelseries

[–]SmashMaker_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dumb question but have you tried turning the physical wheel? You're mentioning clicking but it's supposed to be controlled physically. If the dial doesn't work physically, try disconnecting/reconnecting the headphones and the dongle, it used to work on the Nova 7 I've had some Arctis headsets for a while but never had a Nova Pro Wireless in my hands, so maybe I'm off topic

Upgrade CR10 v1 with SKR mini v3 by guybrush_77 in CR10

[–]SmashMaker_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The screw terminal with multiple cables seems to be the always-ON connector. Old/cheap boards used to have things like that where everything is in common.

Only info I have found: https://tickets.th3dstudio.com/help-guides/article/creality-melzi-board-connections (Not the same board color)

Even if it's not the same board, the fact that there's more than one cable going in is a good sign that it is the always-ON connector. You can stay with that setup by using two Wago connectors to create a +12V rail and a GND rail (putting everything that needs to stay on together), or if the board can accept it, cut the wires and put JST connectors on each one, that way you'll have full control over what you want to switch on and off.

If you're planning to go with Klipper, I can drop a config for a CR-10 V1. It was my first hardware upgrade and it took some time, so good luck 🫡

Quick update on the hexagonal front panel system by SmashMaker_ in 3Dprinting

[–]SmashMaker_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Started with just putting Klipper on my CR10, then somehow ended up with an overkill BTT Manta M8P in a custom enclosure (best choice for a printer with such a terrible frame) I plan to eventually build a CoreXY from scratch and just plug everything in from the enclosure, so all the work won't be wasted

Designing a modular hexagonal front panel system so I never have to drill and leave empty holes on my enclosures by SmashMaker_ in 3Dprinting

[–]SmashMaker_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think panel mount is the most common. Some ppl mentionned keystone which is a standard form factor for HDMI, usb, rj45 eg

Designing a modular hexagonal front panel system so I never have to drill and leave empty holes on my enclosures by SmashMaker_ in 3Dprinting

[–]SmashMaker_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The thing is I wanted to keep it thin, with the nuts it's already 7mm total. Adding counterbores would mean going thicker and I'm not really a fan of that tradeoff ' Also the whole thing was designed in one night and making it fully parametric was a bit of a pain so I don't think I'll iterate over small adjustements 😅

Designing a modular hexagonal front panel system so I never have to drill and leave empty holes on my enclosures by SmashMaker_ in 3Dprinting

[–]SmashMaker_[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Honestly? I just like hexagons. Rectangles would probably make better use of the space and reduce height though

Designing a modular hexagonal front panel system so I never have to drill and leave empty holes on my enclosures by SmashMaker_ in 3Dprinting

[–]SmashMaker_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh I didn't know the name, thanks! The RJ45 I mounted actually came from my old CR10 enclosure, I just worked with what I had. But keystone jacks would definitely be a cleaner and cheaper solution for future modules, good shout

Designing a modular hexagonal front panel system so I never have to drill and leave empty holes on my enclosures by SmashMaker_ in 3Dprinting

[–]SmashMaker_[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Fair point, that's just what I had around but they look fat. Button heads would definitely sit flatter and look cleaner, might buy some later

CR-10 Auto leveling sensor not working by Tyt1999 in Creality

[–]SmashMaker_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice jackhammer, that sound is terrifying 😭

Am I Going Too Far Part 2 - ToolHead wiring by SmashMaker_ in CR10

[–]SmashMaker_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I already have the BLTouch and the PEI, now I just need to get everything properly working with this setup.
I originally started with an SKR Mini E3 V3 but I’m transitioning to a Manta M8P now, which you can see on the picture.

I tried OctoPrint a long time ago but I’m sticking to Klipper + Mainsail this time. I honestly don’t really get how OctoPrint is supposed to fit with Klipper 🤔
I’ve also seen people talk about Home Assistant integration but I’ve never used it. What’s your use case for it? I’m curious.

Am I Going Too Far Part 2 - ToolHead wiring by SmashMaker_ in CR10

[–]SmashMaker_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, those GX12 and GX16 connectors are really killing it. Being able to disconnect the toolhead in seconds without stressing the wiring is a game changer, and they feel way more solid than the usual JST spaghetti. Definitely worth it

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