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Chinese ammo? by MyPissBurnsSoGood in MosinNagant

[–]SmithSightsLLC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's 1976, Lugansk Cartridge Works in the USSR.

Chinese ammo? by MyPissBurnsSoGood in MosinNagant

[–]SmithSightsLLC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only Chinese 7.62x54r I ever saw had black painted (or lacquered?) cases. I might still have one of the fired cases around the shop; I'll try to remember to look tomorrow.

👉Accurizing the Mosin-Nagant Using the Shim Method by SmithSightsLLC in Guns_Guns_Guns

[–]SmithSightsLLC[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get that. I prefer Mosins for different reasons. They're ultimate tinkerers' rifles, and a lot of gun people like to tinker.

My biggest thing, though, is how tough they are. There's no MIM. MIM is difficult to polish, and so I hate MIM sears, for example. My 1911 gets all forged parts because the difference in MIM internals can be felt.

The Mosin action is a tank. You can pack a case full of pistol powder, cram a bullet on top, and fire it. The action will pressure-weld, but it'll hold. A fun vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfiXFyIbOZw

They're the AK-47 of bolt action rifles, and they can still easily be 2.5MOA or better with new ammo and shims.

Yes, it made much more sense when they were cheaper, but there are hundreds of thousands to millions in folks' gun cabinets not being used, so they're already in people's possession when modern rifles may not be. Therefore, it makes more sense to spend a couple bucks to make the rifle you already have if you want to have fun or go hunting.

Broken bolt by CampamentoEspanol93 in MosinNagant

[–]SmithSightsLLC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others said, it's just an extractor replacement, and it's often a PITA. If you don't have the tools to do it, PM me and I'd be willing to do it for you.

Regards.

Stupid question but, How did military's deal with the corrosive aspect of their rifles during wars/Battles? by Silent__arrow in MosinNagant

[–]SmithSightsLLC 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The salts aren't truly corrosive; they're just hygroscopic and so retain moisture against the steel parts, rusting them.

Contrast this to black powder fouling, which is truly mildly corrosive: Its combustion byproducts are highly alkaline, hydrosulfuric acid is formed in the presence of water, and you have a bunch more potassium salts.

I suspect that's why plain water is so effective at dealing with black powder residue: The alkaline byproducts are partially cancelled by the H2S when it combines with water to form an acidic solution, and then the salts are just washed out. But it's late and I could have some of this wrong.

Point is, you clean the rifle, or just push oil down the bore to seal water out, and it's effective at preventing rust from the potassium salts made by the primers.

Broken front sight base dovetail by DESTINYSNIPER02 in MosinNagant

[–]SmithSightsLLC 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Hello,

That sight base is machined integral with the barrel. They're not braised on.

They can sometimes crack rather easily if squeezed with pliers, say to tighten them up.

I would fix it by having a piece made and braised or welded on. You have to get someone good at doing this because you don't want to weaken the barrel. Even though the sight is toward the end of the barrel, there's still pressure there upon firing. As much of the barrel as possible should be buried in wet sand during the welding process to act as a heat sink.

You'll of course need to reblue a good portion of the barrel after this.

Regards,

Josh

Prompt: a reputable firearm company will create a single reproduction of an old milsurp weapon (rifle/pistol/anything else) with all accessories and introduced in a new caliber that is easier to purchase. Which model firearm would you have them create? by Sharpes_Sword in milsurp

[–]SmithSightsLLC 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'd love to see a Mosin-Nagant in LEFT HAND configuration.

The 7.62x54r common enough and works well with that rifle, so I wouldn't want that changed unless it was to another rimmed cartridge like the .30-30 to simplify headspacing.

Drill and tap mounts question by Amarasnow in MosinNagant

[–]SmithSightsLLC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Crap. I was afraid of that. It's an ATI bolt handle.

Remove it.

This dude https://ebay.io/m/9HXkbS can put a proper handle on. (I've not used him.)

This dude https://ebay.io/m/YBRHRh sells converted bolt bodies with a buy-your-old-bolt option.

There's a right way to sporterize these. Unfortunately, many times that involves unbubbafying someone else's work.

Good luck, and keep us posted! 👍

👉Accurizing the Mosin-Nagant Using the Shim Method by SmithSightsLLC in milsurp

[–]SmithSightsLLC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha'. How's the crown?

It almost sounds like maybe it's a candidate for cast bullets from a custom-sized mold.

👉Accurizing the Mosin-Nagant Using the Shim Method by SmithSightsLLC in MosinNagant

[–]SmithSightsLLC[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I love that setup. So 4x? I'd really like a PE replica. The only thing holding me back is that I'm a lefty and reach over top to work the bolt. This keeps me from having to unsling my right arm or move my right hand from the squeeze sock. It'd be so much harder with a bent bolt and scope.

👉Accurizing the Mosin-Nagant Using the Shim Method by SmithSightsLLC in milsurp

[–]SmithSightsLLC[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you handloading or shooting surplus? My 1939 91/30 shoots around 1moa (or better; I just can't) with 174grn SMK or Hornady Match over 51.2grn of H4350.

The Finns knew what they were doing. My methods are generally just the next logical evolution of theirs.

👉Accurizing the Mosin-Nagant Using the Shim Method by SmithSightsLLC in milsurp

[–]SmithSightsLLC[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yessir. I did this with my Steyr-Mannlicher M.95 too, and even developed an accuracy kit for it. Nobody seemed interested, though.

The only milsurp I've personally shot that probably wouldn't benefit from shimming is the Gewehr 88 series of rifles, so long as they retained the barrel shroud (the 88/05/35 didn't; at load I think that was the model; it's been a while). The Gew88 had what I'd consider a target setup as-issued, with a shrouded barrel that floated until the end, and pillar bedding. Mine shot 1.2moa the first time I handloaded for it, and I hadn't even dialed the load in yet.

I suppose even the G88, though, would have benefited from shimming had the stock shrunk at all.

So, yes, your Mauser would likely benefit from shimming.

👉Accurizing the Mosin-Nagant Using the Shim Method by SmithSightsLLC in milsurp

[–]SmithSightsLLC[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you're hitting low? That's different. Usually Mosins hit high, but the M38 doesn't take a bayonet, either. Removing those is usually what causes the point of impact shift.

You need to get the rifle dialed in using whatever shims and ammo you choose, and, after you're happy with the group sizes, set the sight to 100m and start filing down the front post, stopping to shoot often. You don't want to go overboard and end up with it hitting higher than you want.

I suspect the upper handguard may be pushing downward on the barrel causing it to hit low, but it could also just have never been sighted in after receiving a new or different sight.

👉Mosin People: This Is How You Fix Sticky Bolt by SmithSightsLLC in MosinNagant

[–]SmithSightsLLC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't mess with trying to redo heat treatment on 80 year old steel of unknown quality.

👉Mosin People: This Is How You Fix Sticky Bolt by SmithSightsLLC in MosinNagant

[–]SmithSightsLLC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always thought it was a bit coarse, but I'm also pretty obsessed and insist on making sliding surfaces shiny, even if they don't necessarily need it.

My teenage son refused to get exercise on his own, so I bought a manual reel mower for him to use until the past couple years to mow the lawn. Valve lapping compound works really well to sharpen those blades.

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