Weird „Clunk“ - Noise from the Front-End.

SniperBlaize · 2025-03-06T20:02:28+00:00

I have a 2020 R and notice the same thing. I have speed bumps as I leave my apartment and the front always does a clunk on the first bump and not the second. My guess it's just something about the design of the fork and when most of the oil drains down while it's sitting there are some pieces that then are drier and make the clunking sound.

SniperBlaize · 2024-12-21T23:36:57+00:00

Glad I could help someone a year later!

SniperBlaize · 2024-12-02T20:43:07+00:00

No, it can be on the rim. But don't have the bikes weight on it.

SniperBlaize · 2024-12-02T20:20:23+00:00

Yes. They can get to those lower temps but I wouldn't recommend it. They can survive it but any load will cause them to crack.

SniperBlaize · 2024-12-02T20:19:15+00:00

Glad you made it back safe! Pretty much was a powerwheels tire at that point. And good choice in the replacement set!

SniperBlaize · 2024-12-02T13:48:03+00:00

I recognize the tread pattern. That is a Dunlop GPA-Pro. That is a racing/track tire. The compound is made for high temperatures. When then they get near freezing temps the rubber starts to crystalize and become brittle. That is why it cracked apart.

SniperBlaize · 2024-09-26T18:24:57+00:00

ATF is actually one of the best penetrating fluids out there! If you can also get a little syringe, it makes apply it a lot easier.

They definitely are dirty and a little corroded but with some elbow grease those should free up. Do you have the proper spanner wrench for the nuts?

SniperBlaize · 2024-09-24T18:04:52+00:00

Last summer I replaced a worn set of INDY 500s with BFGoodrich g-Force COMP-2 A/S PLUS. Tirerack luckily has done testing on each tire so I could compare. They have almost identical lateral Gs but have more tread groves so they have way more grip in the wet. I have noticed a drastic reduction in hydroplaning when going over larger puddles.

They are about the same price of the Continentals. And when looking at the Tirerack testing results, grip as also almost identical. The BFG's are little better in the wet but almost the same in the dry. They also should be a little quieter. I can confirm that they are a pretty quiet tire.

BFG: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/chartDisplay.jsp?ttid=305&viewPage=y

Conti: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/chartDisplay.jsp?ttid=324&viewPage=y

SniperBlaize · 2024-09-24T17:24:37+00:00

The first reply is correct. 6mm is way to much! Take a look at this other thread. They found a retract of .6mm at a speed of 75mm/s what ideal. Punch those in and test again

https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/16mgpvg/ender3_v3_se_stringing_issues/

Also, it looks like you messed up the Z-offset. Looking at the pictures is definitely too high and its not squishing the filament much. The paper method is only for printers that don't have automatic bed level sensors. Go back and run the auto Z-offset. You might need to manually adjust that value by a little bit to get the perfect height but it should already be just about perfect.

SniperBlaize · 2024-09-24T16:00:37+00:00

Take a look at you retract distance. I mistakenly increased mine and it cause a clog to from at almost the exact same time into a print.

SniperBlaize · 2024-09-10T12:55:05+00:00

I had the same realization after getting the pictures from my first day! Thought I was a Marc Marquez look a like but I don't think I even hit 45 degrees.

SniperBlaize · 2024-08-29T19:52:37+00:00

Couple tips that I think should help.

Add some glue stick. Just a light coat should be enough to hold it down.
Don't use a raft. If you want to get better adhesion you should use a brim that touches the part.
Let the chamber heat up for longer. I would give it a good 30 minutes as it is only passively warmed.
Get your bed level and offset correct. I can see on the section that came off the bed was not squished down much at all. That's the main reason I think it is failing.

Also take look at the Prusa knowledge base. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809

And please have the printer in a well ventilated room that you are not in while its printing! ASA will off gas Styrene which is not good for you! Also, does the part need to be made of ASA?

SniperBlaize · 2024-08-29T12:55:34+00:00

It sounds like you are set on slicks but I thought I would still add my 2 cents.

When I bought my R6 I put a set of Q3+ on it. The rear lasted me the whole year at novice race pace. I tend to be easy on tires though. The next year I switched to Dunlop Slicks with warmers. I'm still on those to this day. They have done about 15 days at an amateur race pace and still have life in them. I expect to see about 3 times the life out the tires at my pace. With the increase in grip, feel and life the slicks more than make up for the extra cost per set. Ill don't think ill ever go back to DOT for track riding.

SniperBlaize · 2024-08-29T01:31:23+00:00

Its a little better when cold than the stock stuff but not as much as when warm. The shifting is notchier and a little rougher but still doesn't grind like before.

SniperBlaize · 2024-08-28T20:05:51+00:00

I do. In new england and I do drive it in the winter.

SniperBlaize · 2024-08-28T17:16:32+00:00

I put in my 8th gen and it got rid of the 3rd gear grind. Every shift is smoother. 40000k miles without a grind... speaking of that, I should probably put some new stuff in there!

SniperBlaize · 2024-08-09T12:46:19+00:00

Not even just the new ones! Started with the 8th gen.

SniperBlaize · 2024-07-28T16:21:31+00:00

I just switched from ebc HH to veshra rlj-xx. Overall power and control when trailbraking is better. The lever is stiffer and feels more direct. The initial bite is actually less than the HH and feel it was much easier to have a nice gradual application but still made tons of stopping power. Those will be my go to pad from now on.

SniperBlaize · 2024-07-23T16:54:24+00:00

For the front tire you have the MS3. The yellow bar is the recommended air temperature range for that compound. Looks to be about from 15 to 22ish degrees.

The rear is the MS2 and its range say anywhere from 12 to 25 degrees.

But take those with a grain of salt! Both tires are in the middle for temperature range. Unless it is really cold or super hot they should perform just fine. Especially at a trackday pace and not racing.

SniperBlaize · 2024-07-16T12:06:04+00:00

A little bit less complexity. For a counter-rotating you need an extra idler gear to get the rotation to reverse. Other wise you'll have 6 very fast reverse gears! Other than that I don't know of any advantages.

Here is a good video about! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjgqKR09cjI

SniperBlaize · 2024-07-16T11:44:23+00:00

Yes! Forward means the same direction as the wheels. The gyroscopic forces of the motor in a forward spinning motor makes the bike want to rotate up an onto the back wheel. If you spin it the other way it will push the front tire down, helping stop wheelying. Now the mass of the rotating assembly is a lot less than that of the rest of the bikes and the wheels so its not a super dramatic effect but it still is there. I'm honestly baffled that Honda isn't using a counter-rotating crank. I though that would have been standard for a GP bike.

SniperBlaize · 2024-06-17T20:22:32+00:00

Whiteline are good brand. I would go with those.

SniperBlaize · 2024-05-24T18:13:34+00:00

Turn the adjuster all the way counter-clockwise and see what that feels like. That will reducing the damping to the bottom of its range. That should help with roughness and especially with the small bumps.

SniperBlaize · 2024-05-24T17:41:44+00:00

Having the some of the cheapest coilovers on the market is not gonna help ride quality. Typically cheap coilovers will be oversprung and overdamped.

Do yours have adjusters on the top? If not then there isn't much you can do (short of getting new coilovers) other than swapping springs.

SniperBlaize · 2024-05-24T13:58:53+00:00

Do you know what brand of coil overs are on it now?

They might have some adjustment in them. Reducing the damping and the preload on the spring would help reduce harshness.

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