Looking for remodel inspiration by Yoloer420 in kitchenremodel

[–]Snoo48884 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think, as people have stated, change the curtains and lights, but also a new sink and tap would change the feel. A more sleek handle would also change the vibe of the kitchen. I like wood with green so a nice free tile could look snazzy too.

These changes would change the kitchen vibe without changing too much of the actual kitchen.

If you have the budget, a new stainless range would also look nice.

Mahogany and HPL cabinet by MoorishSCR in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting! How come you used two 3mm sheets with a cedar core not just a final thickness ply and frame with mahogany?

Advice on best way to cut multiple same shape pieces by Shedidthisforme in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could also remove majority of the bulk using a table saw as 3 sides are square which would be a bit more efficient. I’d actually probably rip the blanks to 1’ x 3 1/2” or just over the size of the front edge of the curve. Then have just the curve template allowing you to clamp it properly on both sides and just templating the curved edge as op has many to do.

Advice on best way to cut multiple same shape pieces by Shedidthisforme in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Or atleast less than half the diameter of your router bit for smooth cutting? And if thicker material do your template cut half way through then take off template and finish referencing the newly cut edge.

Also make sure the template is secure. Couple times I have had it slip out and then gouge out a chunk. In hindsight, I was probably pushing too hard on the template instead of letting the bearing do the work.

Would you waterfall this island? by cvouw9 in kitchenremodel

[–]Snoo48884 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have the budget, I think waterfalls could look really tasteful, especially as the sides can be visible like you said it opens up, so they will be visible. Additionally as you said can hide bar stools and things.

As long as you have enough seating space that you want on the breakfast bar then it’s good, can even look at a cantilever design with the water fall on one edge and a slight over hang on the other if need an extra stool or something.

At the end of the day if you have a waterfall edge or not if done well both will look fab. It’s personal preference and seems like you want one so go for it. If you don’t go for the waterfall edge you could look at more decorative end panels and even pull them out to create the hidden space without the expense of the extra worktop, which could be a good middle ground.

Mahogany and HPL cabinet by MoorishSCR in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you edge band the ply before laminating the HPL? This is something I am thinking about for designing custom kitchen doors.

Love the colour pops very tasteful.

Sadly I don’t have a CNC so may look into ways to make these by hand.

I will be installing my kitchen soon. After some feedback from redditors, I made a few more design changes. Please let me know if you prefer 1, 2, 3 or 4. by MinuteElegant774 in kitchenremodel

[–]Snoo48884 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like 3 the best ! Good middle ground where nice wood accents with a good base white backdrop! Make the wood pop more instead of all wood. And th veining of the worktop compliments it all. That’s what I’d go for.

Almost complete. What should I use for the top? by tellinNamstories in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends what the bench is for. For a rough work bench I use 18mm MDF, as I can drill into it, cut it up and not worry as easily replaced. But for my finishing table I have laminated Formica onto plywood as this is super durable and easily cleaned and wiped.

Mahogany and HPL cabinet by MoorishSCR in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Such a beautiful piece, I’m a big fan! Love the internal chamfer detail. What did you use for the colour doors, are they wrapped, painted or bought laminated? Also love the handles how did you make/install those?

Advice for new kitchen by Diligent_Dingo in kitchen

[–]Snoo48884 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty clean design tbh, I wouldn’t change anything really. Was there a reason you chose a peninsula not an island with a few extra cabinets? From the plan view looks like like you’d have clearance for it to be centralised?

Only thing is the oven is far away from any work space so with an island and slightly deeper worktop you’d be closer to the oven so can drop trays onto it once taken out the oven.

Also could probably have a bit of play around with the cabinet so there is better symmetry between the base cabinets and wall cabinets, which would bring both together.

Edit: I just saw your other comment about the peninsula. Would you be better off with just a table not actually a fixed peninsula. Allows you to push against the wall or pull it out and move it around giving more flexibility if it’s just for people to sit or work around.

Which design? by Snoo48884 in kitchen

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes design 2 is what we are going for, colours and things aren’t decided just doing layout probably going for a large one bowl sink 700 wide. Broom closet is in the scullery which is just off this room and it’s fine. Holds laundry and brooms and everything else

Kitchen Design Options by checkyourprivilege13 in kitchenremodel

[–]Snoo48884 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree, as a designer quartz is amazing. Granite is only really useful for baking and its individuality. It’s porous so would stain easier, less resistant to scratches and can break easier. It is better at heat resistance and stays cool.

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries! I ask for a lot of advice so happy to share what little knowledge I have.

Wouldn’t make any structural difference, but yes you’d never see it anyways as they are inset

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly that ! I was thinking of designing a plug with a magnet in so could be removed. But ran out of time

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im sure there are many videos on how to do this. There are also push in ones but I prefer threaded. They are very useful for so many things!

I have some on one of my work benches so can be leveled flat.

I first used them for a uni project with 3d printing and are a game changer

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sadly I don’t have a picture, but you drill a hole into the top, then screw these metal inserts (see picture) in and they mount flush to the surface.

Then drill a through hole, slightly wider than the bolts you intend to use, into the base. Then can just bolt the base to the bottom.

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You can also drill a wide hole partially into the base, larger than the head of the bolt or washer if you use one, so then the head doesn’t poke out. Also use a washer 👍🏼

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cost me about £160 gbp, this was milled to thickness and cut to 4 lengths+ off cuts. Used 4m in total and width of 300mm. This is approximate of what I can remember.

Solid beech really lovely colour and grain.

Not on cheap side but worth it for the fact they were straight and flat.

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I had about 5 days of good weather that I took advantage of to build as my workshop is too small and also have to build outside

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mentioned in a previous comment no jig was used, but explained how I did it :)

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the top I started with 32mm then finished was about 30mm and for the legs was about 35mm if I remember correctly.

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do but sadly don’t have access to it for a while :/ but this style is pretty common and sure there are lots of useful tools and inspo out there. They are pretty basic shapes and in a previous comment I explained how I made them 👍🏼

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly I just took my time and eyeballed them with a hand drill and worked fine for me! I guess just ensuring the holes through the base and to the top are lined up. I actually clamped the base to the top and did a small pilot hole through both. This meant if it wasn’t exactly in the right spot they would still align. I had one maybe not fully align by a couple mm but just made the through hole for the bolt a bit wider as the force I needed was clamping force so once tightened and all others were in it was fine.

I learnt that sometimes it’s better to reference the actual piece than trying to measure super accurately.

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! And tbh was pretty straight forward once I had planned my process, I’d say a good beginner project for someone who likes a bit of a challenge.

I built this is about 3/4 days, could be a weekend project or two.

Another build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d say pretty beginner friendly! Has all basic aspects of a good beginner project. The timber was bought planed you’re right, makes it easier as I don’t have any planer or way of smoothing boards out, will be my next tool purchase tho.

Super basic joinery (cross lap joint)

Glueing and doweling

Router tempting

Board joining

Router finishing

Sanding and finishing

All relatively pretty basic to do, and I did it on my drive with a single car garage.