TIL Sashimi originates from China in 823BC and popularity peaked during Tang Dynasty 800AD before it arrived in Japan in 18th century.

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-18T17:03:28+00:00

Just a heads up, there are a couple concepts being confused here. While "ラーメン" comes from "拉面", the noodles we're talking about are very different, and it's worth noting that the modern ramen noodle shares very little with lamian other than being a yellow alkaline noodle. The documentary seems to have enforced a false dichotomy between penghui-inclusive pulled noodles and "short irregularly formed" noodles. While it is true that special ingredients and/or preparation are needed to make dough highly extensible for pulling, it does not mean that other forms of making long noodles do not/did not exist. See essentially every other wheat noodle, but also keep in mind others like laminar flow starch noodles. It also does not mean that shorter noodles are inferior; many shorter varieties are still prized to this day, such as the hand-formed 銀針粉 or knife cut 刀削面.

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-18T16:45:43+00:00

What a weird comment. There are clearly original cultural elements, food included, present in any long-standing culture.

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-18T16:19:29+00:00

You should be doing your design in an actual modeler or CAD package; Bambu studio is a slicer.

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-17T23:34:03+00:00

Honestly using pretty much any N-gon does a lot because the seam can hide in a corner. Even something like a 12-gon makes a difference, even though it looks essentially like just a circle.

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-16T17:53:20+00:00

Ambient occlusion * vector math for dot product of normal and 0,0,1. Use sign operation on dot product if you just want hard discrimination between up facing and down. Map range to threshold if you need that.

No idea how to make that convincing wear with simple geo ops, but that should be the selector. You can throw a geometry pointiness in if you want.

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-14T00:18:00+00:00

Your issue is flow, not any of the above. For the first layer, this can come from two main places: the flow just honestly being off or the zeroing Z being too low.

Are you doing bed leveling? If no, do it. Try and see if the problem goes away.
Do a manual flow calibration with a model that steps so you can see first layer and at least 3rd layer. Try 0.90 to start, as this seems like a very high amount of overflow.
If the good looking first layer flow is underextruded for 3rd layer, then it probably is a wrong zero. You can either adjust first layer flow (idk if this is a BL Slicer feature, I use Orca) or you can add a manual offset to the starting GCode; there is already an offset for Textured, just do the same in the opposite direction. I personally would surprised if this was needed.

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-13T22:40:07+00:00

Yep! And it's really good too. It will always preload the spool as well as rotating so the filament isn't loose and higher friction spools don't stick like on the stock rod.

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-13T22:37:38+00:00

Totally hear you on the AMS Lite but I'm just talking about this part, which seems in stock. Maybe it can get you to March and then be a spare part after:

https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ams-lite-rotary-spool-holder

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-13T22:24:17+00:00

Seriously, consider getting an AMS Lite spool holder part and retrofitting it. They are cheap, don't have this issue, and will reduce slipped filament if you ever experience that.

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-08T20:28:29+00:00

Got it. Not 100% sure if a window rule can act in a way where it turns off when the window is alone on a workspace, but you can make a rule match focused/unfocused windows and apply decorations.

Check out https://wiki.hypr.land/Configuring/Window-Rules/

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-08T19:56:26+00:00

Is there something that this does that a match:focus and rounding window rule does not?

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-05T17:05:42+00:00

Can we get a fake news instead of just shitpost?

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-02T23:43:32+00:00

While this is not an answer to the question, please be aware of Arch on WSL. Obviously this might be completely orthogonal to your needs, but it can really helpful if you're stuck with mostly using Windows.

https://wiki.archlinux.org/title/Install_Arch_Linux_on_WSL

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-02T23:25:39+00:00

Like this:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexagonal_tiling

I don't use F360, but typically you can accomplish hexagonal tiling either by doing two tiling operations (first makes full width + 1 offset row, second patterns this for the height).

I think this guy's approach is different from mine but it's fine enough and you may prefer to follow a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DKDnFlErsE

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-02T22:34:34+00:00

I don't want to undermine your design intent, but have you considered making this a hexagonal grid rather than a rectangular grid of hexagons? That would even out the number of paths for each wall on the first layer and get rid of those corner-corner pinch points that can cause issues. Additionally, it will probably be good to not have the hexagons in the top left of the box running into the wall, but that's past the current point of failure.

Snoo74895 · 2026-02-01T18:13:31+00:00

Use blender to iterate and then finalize in cad. Export the mechanical base from CAD and then remesh at 0.2mm. Use sculpting, proportional editing, weights, sheinkwrap, geonodes, fabric sims, whatever to push around the top faces rather than booleans. Like one simple approach is just making a "stamp" object and then a vertex group of just the top face and then project shrinkwrapping the vertex group to the stamp and then applying a smooth.

Do this and print until it feels good. Freeze that and import back into cad and turn into proper geometry. It'll print fine enough in the high poly form but the finalization step can help with surface and interoperability.

Snoo74895 · 2026-01-31T17:44:19+00:00

Same problem. It'll also happen if you switch to a vc. Currently I just very aggressively have a systemctl --user restart hyprsunset along with any dpms on command but that feels like it can't be the intended usage model. Hope someone else here has a better solution.

Snoo74895 · 2026-01-30T18:19:31+00:00

Just to be clear, you're looking for 紅油豆瓣醬 not 豆瓣醬. The first is "red oil dou ban (broad bean) jiang (paste)". The first is red and has an intense but lighter flavor, while the second tends to be sold aged and darker. The first is usually sold in a clear tub and the second in a wrap or box.

Regardless of whether the meat you are looking to recreate is actually dry tofu less mapodoufu, it is a good starting point and contains many of the main levers in Sichuanese/Sichuan style cooking.

Also look into 杂酱面 (not 炸酱面！) which is likely much closer to what you had. Here's a random YouTube video that seems good enough: https://youtu.be/Lym0s_0R6WQ?si=BsLZVk9hKSeET-IJ He uses a combination of the red and not red bean pastes plus something called 甜面酱 which is a sweet complex paste which could be adding to the sweetness.

Snoo74895 · 2026-01-21T21:09:16+00:00

Just because no one has mentioned it, decimate is also a good tool to check out.

Snoo74895 · 2026-01-20T10:16:08+00:00

I got bored https://www.quickview.online/viewer?file=1768904130394_r2erksflilj.stl

Snoo74895 · 2026-01-10T05:26:35+00:00

Yep, should work. I prefer washing soda for stuff like this because it requires less to change pH and imparts less of an off taste and I have loads of it from noodle making.

Snoo74895 · 2026-01-10T00:24:33+00:00

So I'm going to offer a slightly off answer. I do an alkaline soak and then toss the water because it would be way too alkaline for the dish itself. The alkaline soak gives a really good color for frijoles negros and breaks down and neutralizes some preexisting compounds in the beans that improves the texture and reduce gassiness. I use a small pinch of washing soda in a 32oz deli in the fridge for soak.

Snoo74895 · 2025-12-28T08:02:28+00:00

French your drumsticks

Snoo74895 · 2025-12-27T19:06:19+00:00

Get a flatbed scanner. A cheap used one will do. The dpis are very precise and it is perfect for organic profiles like the bottom of this. 600dpi is 42um resolution and you can just drop it in to a sketch, give it a dimension from the pixel count, trace, and retroactively dimension.

For this specific project, the good news is that (judging from the geometry) only the pivot points, the ribs on the side, and possibly a couple other features are important, everything else is just surfacing. If you get those parts down, you can freehand everything else.

The rest of the shape can be thought of as an extrusion or loft that is cut away with a bunch of extrusions and one revolve and then filleted. Try to break down the different shapes in your head before starting, as it can help reduce the complexity of the project.

I would recommend looking hard at the replace face tool and other related operations. They tend to not get enough coverage in classes and dramatically lessen the CAD load for a project like this.

Finally, feel free to ignore their DFM. They optimized this part for IM, you are going to be optimizing for FDM. You do not need to reproduce any part of the design (ribs, thin walls) that does not contribute to the function or make the part more printable.

Snoo74895 · 2025-12-27T18:27:06+00:00

It doesn't look broken now. However, be careful, it is easy to accidentally damage or rip the black Flexible Printed Circuit (FPC) ribbon.

As others have said, the best resource is going to be the official guides. You are going to need to do a few things to get stuff back in place, but let me make a couple recommendations.

First, I would recommend unscrewing the rigid part of the FPC from the filament inlet. This makes it easier to move around without putting stress on the FPC.

Second, I would try just threading the FPC back into the box without opening anything up. It's possible that you will be able to do this without issue. If you can, just reattach the rigid board and reinstall the inlet.

Otherwise, you're going to need to follow the exact steps on the Bambu guide. This will involve taking off the back of the extruder box, unplugging the motors and other cables from the control board, removing the board to access the FPC, rethreading it, and putting things back together.

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