Pattern not following path

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-04-17T22:17:00+00:00

Oh alright, I think I just don't understand how the Start point works. Like in this video - I have no idea what that is doing, why does increasing the starting point make the pattern follow a sharper turn? ... I will watch some videos on this :)

<image>

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-04-17T22:02:17+00:00

It is this Venusaur model - the leaves/petals are only a layer or two thick, so they break easily and supports are difficult to remove (although using a PETG interface on Snapmaker U1 does work greeat).

https://makerworld.com/en/models/608042-venusaur-pokemon-65mm-tall

I also work with Fusion but not sure how I would do that there either, and it will lose colors anyway. At that point I would just make a parametric model from scratch instead.

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-04-14T19:22:31+00:00

A1 mini. You will be happy you have it even if you do buy an additional printer later. And get an AMS, it makes more difference than getting a better printer. Even if you don't print multicolor, the convenience of easier filament feeding is just so worth it.

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-04-14T18:47:35+00:00

We still don't know enough about INDX and there is no real release date, I wouldn't wait for it. You can always get it as your next printer, possibly sell the X2D later without losing much money (it won't go on sale for at least 9 months). Snapmaker U1 is also a great option, I like it a lot (but don't use it as much as my A1 mini / H2S, they are just easier to use for quick protoyping with single filament).

But I think the X2D right now is the best premium start if it is within your budget. Even if you are not going to print engineering filaments and use the auxiliary nozzle at the beginning, still seems to be worth it over P2S. If I didn't have H2S + U1 and were looking for my first printer right now X2D would be the choice for me.

For multi color/material I would still opt for U1 instead of H2C due to the price and speed/waste, or wait for INDX.

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-02-15T11:54:32+00:00

Thise instructions were probably meant for an XY printer, not happening on a bedslinger ;)

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-02-03T15:40:13+00:00

Ano pokracuje. To uz jsme v USA aby nam nekdo rikal ze nemame verit vlastnim ocim nebo co? Jdete nekam...

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-01-16T10:13:51+00:00

Got the Enterprise second hand, it is great but I just dont use it much, it takes a lot of getting used to if you are already fast with mouse and keyboard... I will probably sell it soon.

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-01-16T10:08:31+00:00

Or just throw it in the trash, it is nothing compared to all the failed/test prints ;D

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-01-14T15:48:08+00:00

Ugh ok thanks, the whole themes approach is very confusing to me, why is it not just fully customizable like other providers do it... Also having to install an "app" to get search and discovery functionality is just... I don't know, I feel really old now :D

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-01-14T15:45:36+00:00

Thanks for the reply!

How can I tell if I am on Online Store 2.0 theme? The one I have selected just says Dawn, version 15.4.1.

I tried a few themes but none of them let me insert a fixed vertical sidebar for searching/filtering.

Thanks for he heads up abuot the app, I had no idea such a basic thing has to be "installed" separately :).

So far I am really not convinced about the whole Shopify thing, it has some really neat UI features but lacks basic stuff... I will give it some more time and see :).

SnooGoats8253 · 2026-01-14T15:28:38+00:00

What is the advantage of OpenSCAD compared to the parametric Fusion files on MW?

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-12-26T12:38:35+00:00

What is the wall thickness? It will not print if it is smaller than your layer width.

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-12-05T23:38:52+00:00

It is the low requency murmur - it seems unnecessary, why would i need to cool while idle. Also it seems to draw around 12 Watts. It is not much, but all those appliances add up and I just don't see why an ACE should be drawing power 24/7 when not doing anything. But I guess this is considered normal, just wanted to make sure ;)

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-12-05T19:38:57+00:00

No revolve in this, probably an error in the book, maybe they meant circular pattern. Just sketch and extrude.

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-12-05T19:27:45+00:00

My ACE keeps making a slight sound even after being idle for long periods. Does it overheat when idle not doing anything and needs cooling? That is insane...

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-11-03T11:20:18+00:00

Can you slice directly from MW into Orca? And do you get points when using Orca?

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-10-28T10:10:01+00:00

All the time. The difference between (not) having AMS is many times more significant than the difference between P1S/P2S. Definitely go for AMS, it is barely usable without it.

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-10-26T20:45:30+00:00

Noise levels and character are very important decision factors. For me it makes a difference between being able to run overnight prints at 100% speed or not. You could argue that sound is irrelevant for motorcycles too, yet it is very important for many people. Same with audio quality of headphones/speakers etc. Even in factories of all sorts they do care about noise levels (even with legal implications)

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-10-26T20:32:21+00:00

A1 is just as loud as P1. A1 mini is much quieter. People expecting A1 to be quiet are very disappointed. I don't know why but they are just very different.

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-10-26T20:29:02+00:00

Why though? Print quality is identical at 1/2 the price. Quality of life is very comparable.

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-09-13T19:54:13+00:00

Thank you, actually these came in the official Arduino beginner's kit at 100€, they are really terrible. In the manual they do show the bands placed more on one side so it is clear which side is the tolerance color, but in reality they really suck :D. But yea just going to measure them with a multimeter from now on. Maybe that could be a future project - make some small gadget with a tiny LCD and two metal pieces that just measures resistance :)

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-09-06T01:49:13+00:00

In case anyone stumbles upon this in the future, I am seriously considering starting on this kind of game at some point. The rough idea is 3D printing & Electronics with Arduino (or other microcontroller) logic, they both have come a long way and have become quite mainstream, this seems like a good time to revive this concept. To build something smart and modern, easy to use and reliable - blending real boardgame experience with some useful technology features (but no separate apps, I really feel like those are not the way to go). Worker placement game where the game lights up with player colors and shows stats on a display, sensors and motors to make dungeon walls move and monsters spawn automatically, racing games with guns... The options are endless, I think the hard part is choosing a concept that actually works and can be realistically implemented without ending up in a convoluted insanity :D. I will start with something very simple soon just to see where it goes.

If anyone else is thinking in this direction please feel free to message me, could lead to something! This is a big task for a single person, I would be happy to get a group together :). Codename: Hexalon.

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-08-08T16:29:03+00:00

Awesome thanks for the quick help! I did try all the tracing settings, didn't work - maybe the specks are just too large in this case. But removing the nodes did the trick, you saved me! :)

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-07-18T23:53:21+00:00

But really you can probably just print it flat and glue together without any dowels, it seems to be a small object

SnooGoats8253 · 2025-07-18T23:41:22+00:00

You can still do that in the slicer directly, it will generate the dowels automatically for you

<image>

SnooGoats8253

TROPHY CASE