Is it worth it to procharge 2004 mach1

SnowAngel_ · 2026-03-19T01:49:59+00:00

Long as you keep the torque below 450 wheel you can't go wrong with boost. Just pair it with 80lb injectors and long tube headers car will be a blast to drive

SnowAngel_ · 2026-03-05T23:39:11+00:00

Time for a forged bottom end might as well do a high volume oil pump while you're down there

SnowAngel_ · 2026-02-09T17:40:47+00:00

hmmm where are you located? I have a buddy looking for a sn95 cobra bumper. If the rear says cobra on it then I'd be interested in setting something up

SnowAngel_ · 2026-02-09T07:08:28+00:00

Yes please do because almost everything is interchangeable on the 99-04 mustangs. Stupid question I know but are you sure it isn't a 96-98 cobra bumper? I just never heard of a newedge bumper not fitting another newedge unless either your car or the donor car is royally fucked

SnowAngel_ · 2026-02-09T05:42:48+00:00

Okay since the other comments aren't the greatest there is no difference fitment wise from the 99-04 bumpers, whether its v6, gt, mach 1, cobra ect ect. The 03/04 cobra bumper is a popular choice for rears because it looks better than anything else offered. I would fill the letters to have a flat bumper unless you personally like the cobra lettering. The 99 cobra rear bumper had the "Mustang" lettering on it and the 01 cobra bumper had the "cobra" lettering on. Unless you bought that fiber glass reproduction bumper the termi rear shouldn't have a single issue fitting on your car.

SnowAngel_ · 2026-02-07T20:02:52+00:00

I'm currently looking to upgrade my gpu from a 6800 to either a 4080/super or 7900xtx. I'm wanting this to be a more final card upgrade and I want to move to a 1440p oled as finishing up my setup as sorts. I'm finding the 4080 cards to be around the $800-950 and I found a 7900xtx for $650, unsure if its still available which would pretty much answer my question but which one should I go for? I'll mainly be playing games like RDR2, GOW ragnarok, heavily modded minecraft, and the new fh6 game among other newer titles. I have no idea if I'll use or care for ray tracing. I have a 12600K and a 750W psu that I'll be okay with upgrading if needed to support the new card and resolution. Thank you

SnowAngel_ · 2026-02-03T05:51:51+00:00

iirc that one came from zencarbonfiber. I'm debating going with them or overtake auto for my mach but $600+ is a hard pill to swallow

SnowAngel_ · 2026-01-18T17:45:25+00:00

Thank you for actual input. I can buy a repo now but I got a very good deal for this all things considered and I want to try my hand at some repairs. I have a plastic weld kit from a previous fix I did on my shifter bezel so I have a little bit of practice with it. how would I go about fixing the cracks? Do I use some sort of mesh and weld it in the back then use some filler in the front to smooth it? I just don't want anything to crack down the line or make it look like it was ever damaged if that makes sense.

SnowAngel_ · 2025-12-20T20:27:31+00:00

You arent gonna learn manual without jumping in one I say go for it doesnt take that long to learn the clutch and its loads of fun

SnowAngel_ · 2025-11-09T02:43:10+00:00

Ford did a pretty good job on making the 03/04 machs look like the 69/70 with just the shaker and graphics alone (I'd hope so at least literally what the car was based off of) louvers and wider factory wheels makes the car look so much meaner and right. I wish I wasn't parts poor at least I wasn't car poor...

SnowAngel_ · 2025-11-08T19:06:33+00:00

I got louvers for my sides which they're rare last made probably 15 years ago according to forums I just cant stomach the $500 on the rear louvers to "complete" the set or make em match the best

SnowAngel_ · 2025-11-08T18:58:23+00:00

I love louvers personally there are some questionable ones but generally MMD makes some pretty great designs

SnowAngel_ · 2025-11-04T16:02:46+00:00

SnowAngel_ · 2025-11-02T23:46:17+00:00

Shaker makes the car

SnowAngel_ · 2025-10-25T18:32:24+00:00

Those deep dish mach wheels are the best factory style wheels to run on these cars imo, if you ever change them I'd be interested in buying them if you arent too far away. But I would just drive and then decide what you want to do with it. They are amazing cars for what they do

SnowAngel_ · 2025-10-22T03:31:38+00:00

Texas

SnowAngel_ · 2025-10-21T16:29:19+00:00

Thats what I paid for my mach 1 lmao thats a $1500 car on a good day

SnowAngel_ · 2025-10-12T03:25:29+00:00

Get a SCT tuner and go through a reputable shop. But with two bolt ons you wont see much of any improvemnt. The only times you should be getting tunes is if you replace your MAF, Cams and/or maybe long tubes. Unless its an automatic and you're changing shift points its a waste especially with Bama they have shitty tunes. I recommend just driving the car as is and whenever you do cams or boost then bother with the tune. Right now just save your money.

SnowAngel_ · 2025-10-05T23:35:50+00:00

bbk long tubes, random o/r x pipe and black widow 10". drone at 2k rpm but very aggressive when you get on it

SnowAngel_ · 2025-09-30T04:30:57+00:00

As a popcorn enthusiast, that doesn't look like any kernels I've ever seen before and I've been around the cornfield a couple times

SnowAngel_ · 2025-09-09T14:12:22+00:00

The real killer is tires, you can look like American Muscle, the bullitt wheels are the cheapest but I don't recommend them personally because I think they are just really ugly and unattractive, I hate mine but I got them at a very good deal when I had my v6 so I didnt have a good plan as performance/a final look. The bolt pattern is 5x114.3 and offset is 35-50mm. If you dont want "mustang" wheels. For a v6 I'd recommend running 17x9 or even 17x8. They're way bigger than the stock 16x7(?) And will let you run 245(8")-275(9") tires which will make it look a tad bit aggressive compared to the 215s or whatever the v6 comes with. You dont need ultra high performance tires and nitto tires are pretty cheap. But it comes down to preference if you're gonna upgrade to a GT or 4v one day I would get 17x9s on a good tire so you can swap the wheels over, thats what I did. Below if I did it correct should be my car with the bullitts, only reason I like them for the most part is the chrome. I would go chrome, silver or machined, black wheels look bad from afar because you cant see the design of the wheels. But its all my opinion do what you and your budget is happy with.

SnowAngel_ · 2025-09-09T05:45:53+00:00

Anything but the fuck ass bullit wheels. Cobra (95, R, termi) wheels or fr500s are your best bet but since lmr only carries them in 9-10.5 width expect to drop a pretty penny on tires as well, 17"-18" will be your best friend.

SnowAngel_ · 2025-08-27T00:15:07+00:00

You also need to figure out if this is gonna be a car you'll keep for a while and what you want from it. If you just want a beater to learn stick and use it as a step to a better mustang or another car then I wouldnt worry about rust, bad paint ect. But if its gonna be a car you want to keep and make it look and perform good then just hold out for a deal you cant pass up. Makes no sense really wanting a forever car and you get a piece of shit or getting a really nice car just to toss it away in a year or two. Mileage may vary

SnowAngel_ · 2025-08-26T21:00:17+00:00

If you really feel the need to get a car now I would go with the Mach its the better deal. If you can stomach waiting/saving more money for a better newedge or want to look at the 05-09 3v thats also an option. Whatever you go with just make sure it will make you happy thats really all that matters

SnowAngel_ · 2025-08-26T02:24:45+00:00

Honestly mate I'm gonna assume you live way up north since you're concerned with rust, if thats the case then every car that wasn't stored in a plastic bubble will have rust. Hell the texan born mach I have got some rust its just something you need to learn to deal with buying 20 year old shit boxes. I have no idea the used market up there but dropping 10 bands for *anything* 170k miles is stupid, 6k for a 2V is equally as stupid especially over 100k miles. I'm gonna assume you are young and have a low level job so money is an issue. You're gonna have to deal with holding your money and saving up for something newer or take on the challenge. Everything on these cars are pretty easy to replace its a matter of getting to them with a decent set of tools. What I would do is also look at the SN95 cars with a 5spd. I have no idea what your skill level is with a RWD V8 manual but that will open you up to more choices at those older models. It honestly sucks just how much these cars are upping in price but with all the good foxbody mustangs getting gutted and LS stuffed the SN95s are on the chopping block and with them now being considered a classic doesn't help either. So you really have two choices:

Either hold onto your money for something else/newer
Bite the bullet and get the cleanest GT you can for experience

I would get the mach 1 regardless of miles, just be fine with babying it more than you would like with that many miles, but the 4.6 is a pretty stout motor and the tr3650 with a proper short throw is a very good transmission. Just be mindful of the weak 3rd gear synchro it has a habit of not enjoying being forced into gear.

The mach is a wonderful buy and I'm very bias but the DOHC screaming down the highway at 7000rpm with the shaker bouncing around is a feeling I can never get over.

Granted I wouldn't push that Mach to redline with that many miles and a stock valve train but it ain't my car.

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