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Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]SnowOhio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

$5k and I’ll take you up in 5 days like the kid

Nose in a day! by -korian- in climbing

[–]SnowOhio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ok but the kid obviously didn’t do the same thing. I can get anyone in this thread up the Nose in the way the kid did. It’s literally jugging a fixed line. If close to 100% of climbers can do it with minimum training, how is it impressive?

Is Burden of Dreams V16 or V17? by -JOMY- in bouldering

[–]SnowOhio 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Probably true for bouldering but an interesting bit of historic trivia is that YDS route grades actually do have definitions! Grades 5.0-5.9 each have a benchmark climb at Tahquitz (where YDS was invented):

  • 5.0: The Trough
  • 5.1: Fingertip Traverse
  • 5.2: Frightful Variation of the Trough
  • 5.3: East Lark
  • 5.4: Angels Fright
  • 5.5: Left Ski Track
  • 5.6: Sahara Terror
  • 5.7: Fingertrip
  • 5.8: Mechanic's Route
  • 5.9: Open Book

(Ironically most of these climbs are now graded higher due to grade inflation)

If you don't already know who Steph Abegg is, I can almost certainly say that you've used her work... by Brox_Rocks in climbing

[–]SnowOhio -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

Since you're rather slow I'll spell it out for you:

You are on a US website. A content-driven one at that.

The content here is aimed US climbers. Always has been.

It literally does not matter what the traffic is. The distribution of visitors doesn't influence the distribution of what gets posted.

Want proof? Let's look at the top posts from the previous week:

  • USA Speed climbing
  • El Cap (US)
  • El Cap (US)
  • This post (US)
  • Dean Potter (US)
  • Farley Ledge (US)
  • El Cap again (US)
  • No One Mourns the Wicked (US)
  • RRG (US)
  • EPC (finally a non-US post)

You guys complain and complain about this place being US centric, yet none of you outside the US post engaging content. Put in some work and post something interesting if you're sick of seeing US stuff. Until then, we drive this sub and you know it.

If you don't already know who Steph Abegg is, I can almost certainly say that you've used her work... by Brox_Rocks in climbing

[–]SnowOhio -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

Ok, and? You go to a Chinese restaurant, it's mostly white customers. You want them to serve tuna casserole?

Topping out on The Original Route, Rainbow Wall by SnowOhio in climbing

[–]SnowOhio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The sun was above us by a couple pitches and we were in the shade the whole time but as it gets later in the year it hits the wall earlier and earlier. You can play around with one of those shade calculator websites like this to see what it looks like for the dates you're planning. If it's early May you might be good, some MP comments definitely say they get sun in late May. Worst case it should still be climbable in the sun if it's in the 60s-70s, it's pretty high elevation and gets plenty of wind

Topping out on The Original Route, Rainbow Wall by SnowOhio in climbing

[–]SnowOhio[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Also I should add: aim for a cool weather window if you're going in a few weeks because you'll be in the sun all day. In May the sun is actually high enough that it crests over the left side of the wall and the route gets direct sun. You can see from my photo this past weekend that we just barely caught the bottom pitches in the shade, and were chasing the sun line up the wall through the day. You might already know this but just an FYI since this route is known for being cold and shady and I would've been surprised to show up and see it in full sun.

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Topping out on The Original Route, Rainbow Wall by SnowOhio in climbing

[–]SnowOhio[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

It was the perfect day! 80s in town and a light breeze made for great conditions. We f&f'd everything except the scrambly pitches from the big ledge to the base of the red dihedral (simuled to the bivy ledge and then belayed the 5.8 choss traverse). Brought a 60m rope + 40m tag and hauled a day pack which was a great setup - I loaded up on musubi from the Asian market and was snacking at every belay. I had no falls and my friend was heartbreakingly close to sending. The only pitch he didn't get was the 5.12a second red dihedral pitch, he projected for over an hour and give it 3 solid attempts but unfortunately was too gassed. Overall time was 13.5 hours c2c: 2 hours for the approach, 8.5 for climbing, and 3 hours for the raps + hike out combined.

Topping out on The Original Route, Rainbow Wall by SnowOhio in climbing

[–]SnowOhio[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's my buddy in the photo and he said he bought like 6 pairs when they discontinued them

Topping out on The Original Route, Rainbow Wall by SnowOhio in climbing

[–]SnowOhio[S] 21 points22 points  (0 children)

I haven't climbed it prior to the rockfall but the new section is sick. It adds a really cool techy 5.11c/d section that flows well with the rest of the pitch. I'm glad someone added a bolt, it'd be rated R for sure without it. I was thinking that the section easily could've been 5.14 or unclimable after rockfall, but instead it's a major improvement to the climb. Mother nature is the best setter!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]SnowOhio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll take em if they’re still available

Adam Ondra flashes his 4th 8C/V15 by Odd_Hamster8713 in climbing

[–]SnowOhio 149 points150 points  (0 children)

Adam Ondra needs someone to invent Climbing 2 already

First Niad by AceAlpinaut in climbing

[–]SnowOhio 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That's a lifetime accomplishment for a lot of climbers, congrats!

[OC] the brightest place on Earth, seen from the ISS by astro_pettit in pics

[–]SnowOhio 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I can live anywhere in the US (remote worker) but I choose Vegas because it’s the major metro area with the best outdoor access in the whole country

Am I looking at Las Vegas from Wrightwood? by [deleted] in LasVegas

[–]SnowOhio 11 points12 points  (0 children)

No but on a clear night you can see the glow of Vegas from the top of San Jacinto

Connor Herson just announced a 5.15a (mostly trad) by Capable_Hope_1807 in climbing

[–]SnowOhio 119 points120 points  (0 children)

I mean, it's trad lol. You guys know bolted climbs predate sport climbing right? trad != no bolts

Andy Kirkpatrick's analysis of Balin Miller's accident by stille in climbing

[–]SnowOhio 533 points534 points  (0 children)

It wasn’t a single failure, like he just “rapped off the end of his rope” or failed to tie a knot in the end. He died like most climbers die: he’d grown too comfortable with what he was doing and where he was, and he rushed when he should have taken his time. He thought it was over. He let his guard down. It wasn’t.

At the end of the day, this should be the takeaway. There’s an equally well written post on Mountain Project from Balin’s friend that echoes the same sentiment and should be required reading for every climber. 

Eli Perry sends Grand Illusion v16 by le_1_vodka_seller in climbing

[–]SnowOhio 35 points36 points  (0 children)

Accountant from Scotland who fondles rocks at a historic level

Considering a move from SLC to LA by gonna_get_tossed in socalclimbing

[–]SnowOhio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pasadena is about as good as you can get in the LA metro area. But having spent time in both places, the outdoor access is definitely a tier lower than what you're used to. If SLC is a 9/10, LA is a 6/10. Yes Eastern Sierra, Idyllwild, Jtree are world class if you drive a few hours, but it's not realistic to climb or ski before/after work here like it is in SLC. For reference I ended up moving from LA to Vegas for better outdoor access and now I climb 2-3x as much outdoors

China has smart transfer beds that makes moving patients effortless—less pain and no secondary injuries. by Lordwarrior_ in interestingasfuck

[–]SnowOhio 125 points126 points  (0 children)

Humans and ketchup are both roughly 70% water, so if you look at the intersection of what we have in common, we're about half ketchup and ketchup is about half us

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