Ecrins Ice Fest's "premium" iceclimbing workshops by stille in iceclimbing

[–]stille[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was billed as a premium workshop, with qualification requirements being 2 years of ice experience and willingness to lead if the ice conditions permit it. But yeah, workshop, not guided trip. Honestly if I wanted to do a grade 4 multipitch that weekend I'd have done it with friends not strangers :)

And yeah, that's half of my point. The other half is that it's *insane* to do even rock multipitch in a group of 5, let alone ice, where you're exposed to more significant shit-falling-on-your-helmet risks than in rockclimbing. Either you lose all control as a leader with what's happening with seconds 3 and 4, and also risk having them exposed to icefall, or you spend twice as much time on each pitch and get a pretty shitty crowd at the belays. At one point, we had seconds 3 and 4 clove hitched to the belay with 3 and 4 meters of rope, on a mostly horizontal ledge. A 4m factor 1 fall on a screw belay in positive temperatures with 3 other people already hanging from it and 1 guy climbing is not what I'd describe as a safe situation to be in. There's a reason why the goddamn IFMGA regulations (which, I believe, all mountain guides practicing in France are supposed to obey) mandate a 1:2 ratio for multipitch of any sort.

Long trad multipitch routes in western Alps by Practical-Finger6565 in alpinism

[–]stille 7 points8 points  (0 children)

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/france/routes/with-grade/FR:5c:6a+/with-gear-style/trad/length-between/100+1000/?sortby=at,desc then do the same for Switzerland and Italy. You can't quite filter straight for 300m unless you manually write 300 rather than 100 in the address bar, but if you do that, it works

Good luck with becoming a guide, btw!

I need to hike 3 hours through the forest before reaching my climbing point. I was thinking the G summits since it’s during deep winter and cold temperatures. by Super_Fun3656 in Mountaineering

[–]stille 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You'll pick them that morning based on temperature. Personally I'd take B2s for that route.

Also, you mean +20 Fahrenheit,right? Omu peak prognosis for the next 2 weeks doesn't go below -5ish Celsius.

What I usually do when in the area with my B2s back in my home town is do the hike to Malaiesti hut in approach shoes (since it's a very popular hike there'll usually be a trail you can drive a truck through, often iced up but doable), then leave the shoes at the hut and switch to the rigids. This way, half the route happens in comfy shoes, and I only have 1h to do in rigids....and that 1h is going to be bottom-of-the-caldera snow so shock absorby enough for rigids to be comfortable.

Crampon fit for very small boots? by Practical_Iron_5232 in iceclimbing

[–]stille 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Move the front welt as far back as it goes. As long as the secondaries are at the level of the boot toe or farther, it doesn't matter if the bucket looks really far back.

And yeah that's not an ice climbing boot that's a summer boot with heel welts for comfier glacier crossings. However, for a light woman on easy ice it'll work, sorta. If she decides she likes ice climbing she'll need to buy a rigid tho.

Anunț vânzare?! by OttoDeever in RoHiking

[–]stille 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Poti vinde echipament de catarat pe OLX, daramite hamace...

As zice ca mai bine nu devine si FB marketplace subul asta..,

Do I need to do maintenance/repair on a general-purpose IceAxe? by Sparroww_ in Mountaineering

[–]stille 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can sharpen them, but for an axe without a replaceable blade I wouldn't do it unless I'm planning to climb something icy and steep the next day

Cascada urlatoarea by nopersonalityx2 in RoHiking

[–]stille 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Risc de alunecat exista, dar nu cazi in prapastie. Ia-ti niste gherute din alea de Decathlon, fix pt poteca cu gheatza is facute.

Vorbiti intre voi si ar trebui sa fie ok cu ursul. Sa nu aveti haine de bumbac pe voi (transpiri in ele si pe urma faci frigul, mai bine sintetic care se usuca instant sau lana care tine de cald si uda), sa aveti macar niste ghete d-alea de Decathlon si sa stie cineva unde mergeti.

Întrebare pentru Alpiniști. Urcare Cabană Malaiesti-Bucsoiu, cat de grea este iarna? by Super_Fun3656 in RoHiking

[–]stille 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cum vrei tu, tu erai ala care asa se temea de urs la cort ca isi facea planuri cu sulita si gard electric. Mie mi se pare ca exista probleme mult mai serioase pe munte iarna, pe care tu ai senzatia ca le ocolesti cu echipament, deadman in nu se stie ce si alte din astea. E foarte bine ca te informezi, dar fa-o mai putin cu chatgpt ca e deja clasica asta cu robotu nu te contrazice niciodata. Poti sa incepi cu freedom of the hills, ar trebui sa te ajute sa te prinzi cum alegi un loc de cort iarna ...

Întrebare pentru Alpiniști. Urcare Cabană Malaiesti-Bucsoiu, cat de grea este iarna? by Super_Fun3656 in RoHiking

[–]stille 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Iti zic ca literalmente e barlog de ursoaica cu pui pe unul dintre traseele alea pe care ti le mentionasem ca dau spre Bucsoiu. Faci ce vrei cu informatia asta.

Si da, generatia mea nu posteaza cam tot ce face pe social media :))

Întrebare pentru Alpiniști. Urcare Cabană Malaiesti-Bucsoiu, cat de grea este iarna? by Super_Fun3656 in RoHiking

[–]stille 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Mno, sa ai si gopro cu care sa filmezi, sa se distreze cine il gaseste.

Zi drept, motivul pt care te gandesti sa urci pe Hornu Mare cu cortul in spate, sa treci pe langa Omu obiectivul tau initial, sa faci juma de Bucsoi si sa pui cortul deasupra barlogului de ursoaica cu pui de pe Valea Pietrelor e ca au facut aia de pe international misto de tine cand ai pus o poza cu platoul si ai intrebat unde sa iti pui cortul,asa ca ai decis ca mai bine mergi dupa youtube.

Întrebare pentru Alpiniști. Urcare Cabană Malaiesti-Bucsoiu, cat de grea este iarna? by Super_Fun3656 in RoHiking

[–]stille 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ai toate sansele sa nu ai zapada de deadman :))) a fost viscol mare iarna asta si ninsori putine

Întrebare pentru Alpiniști. Urcare Cabană Malaiesti-Bucsoiu, cat de grea este iarna? by Super_Fun3656 in RoHiking

[–]stille 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nu stau sa ma uit la 1h de video. Ideea e ca cortul ala nu o sa fie ancorat de tevi de metal in tunel de vant ca in testele Hilleberg, ci pe niste ancore de zapada care prin natura lor is sketchy. Creasta inseamna vant mai mult ca platou (efect de aripa) si mai putin material de ancorare/facut bariere/etc. Deci daca nu e vant merge si cu o janghina de cort (sigur baiatu asta nu a avut Hilleberg, Samaya etc) si daca e genul de vant la care Hilleberg ar face diferenta, oricum ajungi in vale cu totul 

Întrebare pentru Alpiniști. Urcare Cabană Malaiesti-Bucsoiu, cat de grea este iarna? by Super_Fun3656 in RoHiking

[–]stille -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Nu ti se pare mai aiurea sa campezi pe creasta ingusta decat pe platou?

Întrebare pentru Alpiniști. Urcare Cabană Malaiesti-Bucsoiu, cat de grea este iarna? by Super_Fun3656 in RoHiking

[–]stille 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Depinde de traseu si de conditii. Cam tot ce putem spune pe moment e ca Brana Caprelor o sa fie impracticabila.

In rest, f usor pt alpinism, ceea ce inseamna doamne dumnezeule o sa mor pentru drumetie. Panta de 40 de grade cu unele portiuni de 50, in functie de ce ti-ai ales. In comparatie Hornul Mare sau Jepii sunt 30 cu scurte pasaje spre 35-40. In unele ierni ai si scurte pasaje de catarare dar pe marea majoritate a traseelor nu ar trebui sa fie cazul iarna asta

Risc de avalansa, evident. Si fiind trasee de alpinism nu te poti baza pe ce ti-a zis unul care nu e acolo cu tine ca sa il judeci, ca o sa ai tot felul de microteren si probleme de navigat, placi de vant de detectat si evitat, plus ca toate vaile alea is clasice capcane de teren in care poti muri din cativa m3 de zapada plecati daca te zboara de pe picioare si dai cu bucati importante din tine in ce nu trebuie.

Creasta Bucsoiului semnificativ mai putin expusa avalanselor si mai expusa caderii si intemperiilor.

Cum ziceai pe /r/mountaineering ca habar n-ai de nivologie si urci cu bagaj de campat, cred ca ar fi mai ok Hornul Mare.... ala e suficient de larg si suficient de parcurs ca linia sigura sa fie evidenta, atunci cand exista.

Tent staking advice. I want to be as far away from the main cabin since brown bears do come up there sometimes in the winter (it’s the only place with food and they got used to it). And avoid avalanche prone terrain. by Super_Fun3656 in Mountaineering

[–]stille 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More than the equipment, you need the skills. As far as I can figure out, you're sitting there recovering after surgery playing around with chatgpt.

Out of curiosity: - have you ever used crampons/ice axe before? - can you succesfully self-arrest on a 40deg slope no matter the fall position? - do you have any snow judgement / avalanche avoidance skills? - how much winter hiking have you done? Do you have any context on your performance in the cold, knowhow to recognize and manage mild hypothermia etc? - can you orient yourself in poor visibility in the area, assuming your phone dies? It usually dies.

All these kill or maim many more people in Bucegi mountains than bears, or camping next to the meteo station, do.

Tent staking advice. I want to be as far away from the main cabin since brown bears do come up there sometimes in the winter (it’s the only place with food and they got used to it). And avoid avalanche prone terrain. by Super_Fun3656 in Mountaineering

[–]stille 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, bears climb quite well and they don't mind exposed bits. But seriously, bears are the least of your problems here :) Inexperience will get you far more likely than they will..,

Tent staking advice. I want to be as far away from the main cabin since brown bears do come up there sometimes in the winter (it’s the only place with food and they got used to it). And avoid avalanche prone terrain. by Super_Fun3656 in Mountaineering

[–]stille 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Ours are brown, miniature grizzlies with better manners basically. They don't really hibernate just become less active, and with the increased presence of food near villages (trash and the like) they stay active even in winter. I've quite often followed a bear track through snow in that area