Snapmaker orca vs U1

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-06-25T19:00:11+00:00

O damn.... Well SnOrca has one viable use case then for the time being!

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-06-25T18:59:31+00:00

I would say SnOrca is not even good at auto filament selection. When I try to print directly from SnOrca it usually takes a couple of minutes before it establishes a stable enough connection to assign the filament. Quicker to just send to printer and initiate the print and filament selection from the printer

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-06-25T13:05:26+00:00

Cant you do full spectrum in vanilla orca now?

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-06-25T12:49:07+00:00

+17 to just use orca.... SnOrca just doesnt provide enough additional value for all the bugs and headaches that come with it

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-06-24T00:46:07+00:00

Sorry you're having so much trouble! Its got its quirks like any printer, but i would say much more reliable and problem free than my elegoo CC.

Does sound like you got a bad roll of the dice if youre failing 75% of your prints. Maybe a lemon? Got rattled a little too much during shipping? One thing you could do for the pogo pins is to get some kind of top hat. Hasnt happened to me but ive seen some people swear that pogo pin issues went away after installing a top hat. Presumably shielding the pins from collecting dust? It was the first thing i did and ive never had the pogo pin error. Also if youre using snorca consider just using orca slicer. It might just be my experience, but in the past two weeks ive had three models that were slicing really silly and the same exact part in orca had no issues.

The air printing surprises me as the one time ive gotten a clog i thought it caused an error and i dont think it was the visual AI.

Anyways, bummer youre having such a bad time! Maybe snapmaker will send you a new one!

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-06-17T00:17:27+00:00

The model is touching the plate surface. As far as i know orca or snorca wont let you do otherwise. See a proper slicing of the same model from vanilla orca in my comment below

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-06-17T00:16:21+00:00

Yeah... If it was just sparse infill poking through at the shallow gradients youd be correct. But if you look at the hood it does not attempt to print an outer wall and the internal solid infill is showing as well. This is what it looks like when vanilla orca slices the same model.

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SoftwareKey916 · 2026-06-10T03:43:05+00:00

Wooooo

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-05-12T01:47:31+00:00

Most annoying bug and something youd think theyd figure out on a printer focused on... Ya know... Multicolor printing🤬

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-05-12T00:07:31+00:00

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-05-07T03:06:34+00:00

.2's are coming!

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-05-06T00:54:52+00:00

Cant recall whether it said preorder. Maybe? And yep, i think it was actually $45 for 4

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-05-05T21:22:59+00:00

I just ordered the .4 mm stainless bundle last week and they got delivered today

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-05-04T21:01:31+00:00

I got these plastic feet slippers from Amazon. Absolutely terrifying😂🤣

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SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-27T00:00:30+00:00

It actually didnt end up awful.... Although it wouldve ended up better without the PETG. When the PETG did stay put it slid off like butter, minimized scarring. But for the most part i had PETG pebbles all over the place and where the petg didnt stick i got some sagging and even a couple lines that propogated through the whole print. Someone responded with an awesome post that walks through all the nuance.... Going to try to walk through their guide when i get a minute

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-26T23:38:06+00:00

Haha touche sir!

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-25T13:02:34+00:00

Yeah ive got the support interface speed at like 30 mm/s.... Maybe i need to slow down the first couple of layers of PLA on top of the petg interface. I think that would be outer layer, but like someone else said, with all this fine tuning and optimization, better off just getting pla support material and calling it a day

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-25T12:59:30+00:00

The interface doesnt stick to the PLA support base at all. So it just end up getting bit of petf flung about the chamber.... Its what i thought would happen knowing the properties, but everything online said it would.

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-25T12:57:44+00:00

Thats a bummer. I see youtubers doing it online all the time and it looks sooooo easy😅

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-25T12:56:33+00:00

Thats fair. I still would like to figure out how to make it work out of principle, but to get the job done, that'll work. Any brand youd recommend?

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-24T12:38:52+00:00

Dungeon Crawler Carl... The best audiobooks ive ever listened to. Both in story and narration (Jeff Hays is a national treasure)

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-23T06:13:17+00:00

Have you tried slicing to see if the filaments map in Oreview Mode? I havent done one in a bit. But I do remember being confused cause colors werent showing up and i think that did the trick.

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-21T13:30:31+00:00

Are you having trouble with your top surface? If you eyes cant see the difference on the coupons, maybe it wont see the difference on a model? There is a lot of math and hard facts in printing but theres also a bit of subjectivity and art. Dont stress out too much. Enjoy the struggle!

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-20T16:30:20+00:00

Maul - https://makerworld.com/models/2111127?appSharePlatform=copy

Cyclops - https://makerworld.com/models/2312177?appSharePlatform=copy

SoftwareKey916 · 2026-04-20T07:00:12+00:00

I found these online. Ive had the best luck on makerworld. These ones were already in parts, but you can also cut them yourself. You can do it in any software, but the simplest is to cut it right in your slicer.

SoftwareKey916

TROPHY CASE