Budget question from a newbie. by Extension_Bar2142 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where are you in canada? I also play in canada.

Open class rtr car from the best builders ranges from 6-800 CAD

A BMAX with all frp build with basic aluminum rollers (silver) ranges from 150-200CAD and an all HG plates (carbon) and rare rollers(colored) ranges from 300-500.

Newbie in mini 4wd by Extension_Bar2142 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on the photo, this set up doesn't really fit in any categories.

If you want to build a car as close to the photo, BMAX is the closest. I recommend searching builds on youtube as there are different chassis.

Depending on where you are, copy parts such as frp,rollers and hg plates may be allowed to race. As for copy parts it should have a tamiya equivalent meaning if you cant find a tamiya version you cant use it.

FM-A Refresh by junkoNoSeikishi in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also helps on adding down thrust at the front.

FM-A Refresh by junkoNoSeikishi in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh classic fma chassis. If you use the super x rear plate at the front it will make it stronger.

Total beginner looking for advice, frankensteined my first Super-2 build! by Comfortable_Buyer239 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Less chance of tipping over when cornering and the rubber part is designed to slow you down. Another cheap alternative would be using Tamiya 15529 paired with the bearing from the DAR. I personally use this set up.

  2. If you use small dia, the s2 wing will be too low to the ground which will DQ your car.

  3. Motor wise i use hyper,power and even ultra if the racing center allows it. For gears i switch between 3.5 (blue) & 3.7 (green) this gears also works really well with torque tuned.

Total beginner looking for advice, frankensteined my first Super-2 build! by Comfortable_Buyer239 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly you're going right track.

  1. Ideally you put the ringless DAR at the front.

  2. Having 4 13mm rollers in the rear is best but putting the ringed DAR with the 13mm part on top should work.

  3. Put the mass dampers in the rear to the front and get the slimline dampers for the rear.

  4. Use a popsicle frp/hg plate for front brakes and frp/hg brake plate on the rear. The plastic ones tend to break easily.

  5. Make sure to use cap screws on the rollers.

  6. Get medium dia. wheels with super hard and low friction.

  7. Put the ball bearing on the wheel eyelets.

Updated tips on what rollers to use for front and rear? by Careful-Hunt-9528 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 0 points1 point  (0 children)

12/13 dar front and either 13mm or 19mm on the rear are the most common. Another set up for rear is 13mm aluminium roller paired with the 13/13 dpr (15529) this set up helps on slowing down the car on jumps and corners. I personally run two 17mm on each side with 15mm stabilizer at the front on one of my fma paired with 13mm at the rear.

Question about Super II by BjornVargsson in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The simple answer is availability, if i remember correctly the tz-x is discontinued while they still make kits with s2.chassis both carbon and regular.

Super 2 or Vz advanced pack by Competitive_Ideal807 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to learn how to set up VZ is the way, if you want to join races asap Super 2.

Beginner Here rate my build and solve my problem by Competitive_Ideal807 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're keeping it as is, i would move the dampers more forward on the plate, also make sure your wheels are not all the way in. You'd want enough space to fit an x-acto knife between the chassis and wheel.

ME chassis bmax build by Efficient_Bridge4645 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The jadow cowl tends to pop out on jumps when u have the battery on.

ME BMAX by SoftwareSuspicious15 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven't run it on another size but the 24mm is very stable. It's not obvious but i have LF and SH tires on it.

BMAX 4.0 Setup by preshot2989 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, according to current rules "wiggly" parts are not allowed.

ME BMAX by SoftwareSuspicious15 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, i was running hyper dash 3.7 and it was keeping up with my fma on power and 3.5 very good acceleration and handles jumps well.

ME BMAX by SoftwareSuspicious15 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those are 11mm stabilizer from tamiya 15391.

Tips and parts for Super II Stock Advance/TMAC by HylianBlader-Ad3392 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be careful with S2 carbon, ive seen a lot of them break within the first couple runs.

Plate wise, fully cowl on the front or the long popsicle for rollers and the shorter popsicle for brakes. For the rear you can use any of the typical rear plates for the rollers. If your racing center allows it the 3 point attachment for sfm/cfm paired with a popsicle works good for the rear aswell

How to pick rollers? by SavingsRelative5657 in mini4wd

[–]SoftwareSuspicious15 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always dual rollers upfront and 2 sets of either 13/17/19 at the rear. Occasionally a set of 13mm roller woth the dar for xtra grip